Breaking in a new barrel (mostly shoot lead)

[ljnowell]

I don't know where you checked your load data but on hodgdons website 4.5 gr of 700-X is the starting load for a 230 gr round nose. With 5.0 grains being the max. In my Lee and lyman book it's showing 5.0 and 4.9 as max load.

I have crony data out of my Springfield 1911 that shows an average velocity of 847 with a SD of 17 fps.

I believe at 4.5 grains my Springfield xds would not cycle 100% of the time
Don't quote me on that I developed this load awhile ago, I remember one of them not cycling correctly at a lower charge weight. Might of been my old RIA I do not have anymore...

From many years of loading 700x I've learned that it doesn't like to be loaded at max, especially with lead. My load with a 230 grain lead bullet is around 4.2-4.3 grains. Some guns will take it better without leading, apparently yours won't. I would be trying to work my load down and see what I get from it.

 

[BigBore45]

So I ran around 100 or more at the match, barrel looking a bit better but no where near a mirror finsh.

I hand lapped it with some 320 grit and finished with 600. Now it has a semi mirror finish and feels much better with dry patches. I'm gonna try to get to my range tomorrow and shoot some lead again.

I retested my BHN and came out at 14 with the water drop. With some Richard Lee's math and charts I'm dead on for a good lead bullet for what I'm doing with pressure and velocity.

 

[BigBore45]

From many years of loading 700x I've learned that it doesn't like to be loaded at max, especially with lead. My load with a 230 grain lead bullet is around 4.2-4.3 grains. Some guns will take it better without leading, apparently yours won't. I would be trying to work my load down and see what I get from it.

I see what your thinking but I'm at the right peak pressure for the bhn the bullet is .001-.0015 over my slugged size and its not running out of lube as it is leading all the way down the barrel. Also at my velocity Lee liquid alox is perfect. I'm positive it's just a rough barrel. I don't think going down .3 grains is gonna change much at all. I'm not gonna go down to below the minimum start data from hodgdons. I doubt my guns would cycle properly at your load with the bullet I'm running. I know my xds wouldn't and I doubt this ruger would run, it's really stiff.

Im gonna update this thread for other people that come across it. I'm sure once I get it smooth all leading will be solved.

The reason I started the thread in the first place was to see if others do this because the barrel looked and felt so rough.

 

[AZ Desertrat]

Those good old Rugers are so tough that they don't need a break-in, and I shoot WAYYYYY more lead than jacketed in my SBH and Blackhawks!

 

[BigBore45]

found a few pics on the internet forums at ruger forums. also a 1911 forum had some picks and the same problems im having.

Seems to be a problem with some of the SR1911's out there?.

This is exactly how mine is but mine is stainless. its really rough when you patch it too. I think I might call Ruger I don't see this being corrected without to much metal loss.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

Simply start shooting it with the load you intend to use. Don't worry about "break in."

If she leads up, clean her! My approach is to strip the gun, plug the breech with a vacuum cap end (available in and auto parts store) and pour a 50-50 mixture of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide down the barrel. Let it sit a half minute or so, pour it down the drain, then dry and lube as normal.

 

[eldon519]

If she leads up, clean her! My approach is to strip the gun, plug the breech with a vacuum cap end (available in and auto parts store) and pour a 50-50 mixture of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide down the barrel. Let it sit a half minute or so, pour it down the drain, then dry and lube as normal.

Vinegar/peroxide works but it is EXTREMELY IRRESPONSIBLE to advocate that method without talking about the hazards. The health hazards are that it makes lead acetate which readily absorbs through the skin. You need to take utmost precautions not to come in contact with it. The end result is also hazardous waste, so disposing of it down the drain is a terrible idea. If you put table salt in it, the lead will precipitate out in a less hazardous solid form which you could then separate out from the mixture and dispose of accordingly. Also worth noting, it can damage metal surfaces with prolonged contact such as removing the bluing.

Again, this is not something to be suggested lightly without explaining the caveats. If it worked that great without any downside, obviously it would be the go-to method in every lead removal thread. It's most popular use is for suppressors where you cannot necessarily get inside some such as sealed units, and consequently are left with fewer options. If you can scrub it out, I'd do that first.

 

[BCRider]

Perhaps run another slug charged with jeweler's rouge for a final polishing. You're looking at either loose powder or the reddish brown sticks of compound sold for buffing. Another source of this same grit is automotive rubbing compound.

This would be much finer than the 600 grit and you'll get a near mirror shine to the bore.

Keep in mind that at the angle we see the metal when looking down the bore we seeing a smoother shine than what is actually on the metal. So a near mirror shine is actually a lot more dull and rough than that. A near mirror shine as seen from dead on to the surface will appear like a highly polished mirror shine when looking down a bore at the reflection of the light from the other end.

Or at this point just shoot more. Over time the rounds running down the bore will do the final polishing eventually. Or perhaps "fire lap" the bore with a few light charge cast loads where the lead is "charged" with some of this jeweler's rouge along the riding bands.

 

[Sport45]

Quote:

If she leads up, clean her! My approach is to strip the gun, plug the breech with a vacuum cap end (available in and auto parts store) and pour a 50-50 mixture of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide down the barrel. Let it sit a half minute or so, pour it down the drain, then dry and lube as normal.

Vinegar/peroxide works but it is EXTREMELY IRRESPONSIBLE to advocate that method without talking about the hazards. The health hazards are that it makes lead acetate which readily absorbs through the skin. You need to take utmost precautions not to come in contact with it. The end result is also hazardous waste, so disposing of it down the drain is a terrible idea. If you put table salt in it, the lead will precipitate out in a less hazardous solid form which you could then separate out from the mixture and dispose of accordingly. Also worth noting, it can damage metal surfaces with prolonged contact such as removing the bluing.

Again, this is not something to be suggested lightly without explaining the caveats. If it worked that great without any downside, obviously it would be the go-to method in every lead removal thread. It's most popular use is for suppressors where you cannot necessarily get inside some such as sealed units, and consequently are left with fewer options. If you can scrub it out, I'd do that first.

That's why I always cap the muzzle and fill the barrel with mercury to dissolve the lead. No worries about that dangerous lead acetate.

Seriously though. If you have significant leading just trim a bit off the wife's copper chore boy when she's not looking. Wrap it around a bronze bore brush for a snug fit in the barrel. With just a few passes through the lead will be a distant memory.