Brush/Mop/Patch roundup- who makes the best?!

[Motega]

Tetra, Hoppes, Kllenbore, Gunslick, Dewey, Montana Extreme, just toi name a few all make very similar products and I'd like your opinion which one is best in each category. I'll share what I've found out below and respectfully ask for your input. For the opinions on what is best lets keep it basic and stick with bronze brushes, unsoaked patches, but any mop.

Brushes- sticking with only bronze, as they are generally considered by most as the best option. I thought I saw somewhere a claim regarding more bristles and bristles finish/shape but I can't seem to find it again. Has anyone found a differencve and if so who gets your top vote? NOTE- Gunslick I believe is now offering a quick disconnect system so you don't need to twist off brushes/mops and jags - VERY interesting idea as the brushes are the same price.

Patches- first, which shape?! Second, cotton or a cotton/synthetic blend? Montana extreme claims they use a patch finish on both sides. Not sure if that;s very important. Others claim better absorbency.

Mops- any noticeable difference? There must be varying amounts of cotton/wool in the blends *a VERY interesting mop is the Kleenbore (I think) mop that has a line of bronze wire(brushes) snaking around it. Not sure if during the final pass with light oil if I want any brush wire in there but I can't really think of any pros or cons about it.

Finally, what are your opinions on the magbrushes by Kleenbore? It occured to me I don't ever clean the magazines with brushes or mops. Seems largely unnecessary but I have an open mind. Thanks for your opinions!

 

[451 Detonics]

I use Pro Shot for just about everything. When it comes to patches I use round all cotton and use a jag so I don't drag a dirt patch back through the bore. Bronze brushes and I never have bothered with a mop.

http://www.proshotproducts.com/

 

[Motega]

Cmon guys there HAVE to be some opinions on the plain old bronze brushes... do you folks think they are basically all made at the same Asian factory and just rebranded? The patches have significant differences for sure in materials and finish. Is it that minor a detail for most of you? I think a little difference in the quality of a brush, mop, or patch can make a BIG difference in how long it takes to clean and also how clean your guns end up being.

 

[Art Eatman]

I'm still using brushes from my uncle's stash which he bought surplus after WW II. They work. I don't think it really matters...

 

[MtnCreek]

I bought some of those new fangeled brushes that have spiraled loops in lieu of plain brissels; waste of money IMO.

I do wish someone made a good brush that would withstand solvent better.

 

[Motega]

I guess I get more excited about cleaning stuff than most? I wish I could remember where I saw the claim about the brush that had 50% more wire bristles, anything to get the job done faster makes me happy. Also, I really would like some thoughts on the mops that have the 1 row of bristles that snakes around from top to bottom like barber pole stripes... I'm not sure if that's a good idea or not

 

[Dstoerm]

I like Dewey. High quality stuff, but can be hard to find (easy online, though)

-D

 

[dirtyjim]

i buy tipton brushes & jags. most of the cheaper brushes wear out way to fast if they are even the corect size to begin with.
mops are good applying a light coat of grease to the bore for extended storage

 

[Welding Rod]

I just look for the ones that say "Made in USA" on the packaging.

If you order online, Brownells is indicating items made here as such on their website.

I emailed to thank them.

 

[Petros]

+1 on what MntCreek said. Spiral Tornado brushes were terrible. I do try and purchase brushes that have a brass ferrule instead of steel. Also I try and and get the brushes that have the core looped at the outer end to avoid gouging. Petros

 

[Orlando]

I let solevants do the work instead of brass brushes.
I will sometimes use a nylon brush (not the loop type)probably isnt needed but old habits are hard to break

 

[Motega]

I bought a bunch and the bristle count seemed about the same- BUT it appears only Tetra marks the caliber on each brush- a feature I consider indispensable especially when you have a lot of stuff that's is close like a .38 and .30.
I'm buying only Tetra from now on for this reason.

 

[Welding Rod]

I bought a Montana Extreme jag tonight in .270. I did so as it appears every manufacturer in the store is paying the communists to build their products. (Including RCBS and now even Lyman (!!!) reloading products - don't get me started.)

Anyhow the Montana Extreme jag is several inches long (much longer than other common jags) and has a very long sharp point to skewer the patch.

I didn't think too much about it until I tried it. Wow, that long needle on the end is great. It keeps the patch from falling off while routing the tip of the rod through the reciever and into the back of the barrel better than any other jag I have used.

The jag seems to fit a bit tigher than normal too. I may go back and buy some more in other calibers to replace my exisiting "conventional" jags.

Now I got to go write Lyman a tongue lashing.

 

[Col. Plink]

I like to use bronze brushes with small solvent-soaked squares of cotton fabric over them. I think it cuts down on the abrasiveness of the metal bristles while still allowing some of them to push through the fabric and into the rifling grooves. For corrosive ammo, Montana Xtreme while foolish in name is a one-step clean for me. For sooty non-corrosive ammo, several wet swipes of Hoppe's and then dry ones do the trick.