whatnickname
Member
Like I said, I needed professional help after I saw that Singer. I say we hunt Bubba down and give him a fatal dose of laxative!
Bubba's Custom Shop Examples
- Thread starter Tallball
- Start date
Like I said, I needed professional help after I saw that Singer. I say we hunt Bubba down and give him a fatal dose of laxative!
doubleh
Member
I am confident I could do better than that with my little battery powered Black&Decker chainsaw with a dull chain
not that I would choose to do so as I have the correct equipment for bubbaing things. Not being familiar with polymer 80 anything I have no idea of what was attempted with that awful mess.
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Yes, I had the barrel replaced with a 4 1/4” cut barrel, McGivern gold bead Patridge front sight. The grooves on the backstrap were extended and and an action job.
The silk purse,
Kevin
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Tallball
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@lee n. field - Yes. The little gouges on the Kahr are on the front of the grip on the (formerly) stainless steel.
I have a Colt 1903 that Bubba decided to scratch his initials onto. Someone put a lot of time and effort into getting the scratches out (except on the magazine), refinishing it, putting on new grips, etc. I got that one for $300-something, because it wasn't original anymore.
Bubba's custom work has helped me purchase several firearms that I couldn't have afforded otherwise, so I should probably be grateful. Here's the Taurus PT145 that he also polished the slide on. It only dropped the value from $200-something to $100-something, so it wasn't really his best work.
The slide serrations are so ruined on this one that the only quick and sure method to rack it is to grip the very front of the slide with two fingers (yes, right next to the barrel). If you get your fingertips on the actual front of the slide, it's easy to rack. Not my favorite method at all, but if I had a pistol with a slick slide like this and had to count on it for SD, that's how I'd have to practice. Good thing I have unruined firearms for that role.
I have a Colt 1903 that Bubba decided to scratch his initials onto. Someone put a lot of time and effort into getting the scratches out (except on the magazine), refinishing it, putting on new grips, etc. I got that one for $300-something, because it wasn't original anymore.
Bubba's custom work has helped me purchase several firearms that I couldn't have afforded otherwise, so I should probably be grateful. Here's the Taurus PT145 that he also polished the slide on. It only dropped the value from $200-something to $100-something, so it wasn't really his best work.
The slide serrations are so ruined on this one that the only quick and sure method to rack it is to grip the very front of the slide with two fingers (yes, right next to the barrel). If you get your fingertips on the actual front of the slide, it's easy to rack. Not my favorite method at all, but if I had a pistol with a slick slide like this and had to count on it for SD, that's how I'd have to practice. Good thing I have unruined firearms for that role.
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Old Dog
Member
Egregious. Must've taken it out to his garage after a sixer of Bud Light and a few shots of Jack... Even I could do better with my pitiful Dremel skills.
That just begs the question: But why?
Gerd33
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- Oct 24, 2021
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I suppose this counts as someone added a scope mount and red dot to this Ruger Bisley 45 colt.
It's accurate and shoots well so I don't have to worry much about carrying it through the woods during deer season.
For a non-Handgun example but a handgun caliber, someone chopped about 1 1/2 inches off the stock of this pre-safety JM 1894 Marlin .357 and glued/screwed on some type of shotgun recoil pad.
It's accurate and shoots well so I don't have to worry much about carrying it through the woods during deer season.
For a non-Handgun example but a handgun caliber, someone chopped about 1 1/2 inches off the stock of this pre-safety JM 1894 Marlin .357 and glued/screwed on some type of shotgun recoil pad.
CapnMac
Member
Ok, is that a SAE or Metric front sight nut
DustyRusty
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- Jan 14, 2020
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Muzzle threaded for ½" x 13 coarse threads. and a nylon insert nut installed.
Nut drilled and tapped for a broken screw front sight.
Nut drilled and tapped for a broken screw front sight.
Armybrat
Member
How about a Colt ‘51 Navy conversion being “Vato’d” in Mexico back in the day.
Probably done with a hacksaw in a cantina back room.
But why remove the ejector rod housing?
Probably done with a hacksaw in a cantina back room.
But why remove the ejector rod housing?
I hope that was either registered as a SBR or that it was confiscated and sitting in evidence,Looks good to me. Here, hold my beer.
Either that or a non functioning prop.
armoredman
Member
I found this in a pawn shop for a song, because it didn't work. At all. I wanted it because I know a premium black powder gunsmith who can bring ANYTHING back from the dead.
I got it for a LOT less than that tag says.
Literally everything he could do wrong, he did wrong, to include screwing up the stock to make room for the welded on tennon he forgot to dovetail for, or the THREE holes he bored INTO, (all the way inside the bore), so as to screw on the under-rib, the one that one of the thimbles had broken off from, BUT the shop kindly provided it! No ram rod, and the trigger MIGHT catch once in a while, as apparently with the barrel out of place, he had ground hither and yon on ALL of the trigger assembly to get it to fit. This started off as a Kit Carson kit, judged by my gunsmith as something that probably cost about $1,000 back in the 70s, and had been sitting around for a long time. There is an entire thread, (on another forum, sorry), dedicated to how he resurrected this baby in a few months, to this beauty.
This is Da Boy's favorite rifle, the one he calls "stupid fun", and while he likes emptying a magazine like anyone else, he will happily spend hours shooting just 6-8 louds out of this gun. It is also very accurate, and reliable.
I got it for a LOT less than that tag says.
Literally everything he could do wrong, he did wrong, to include screwing up the stock to make room for the welded on tennon he forgot to dovetail for, or the THREE holes he bored INTO, (all the way inside the bore), so as to screw on the under-rib, the one that one of the thimbles had broken off from, BUT the shop kindly provided it! No ram rod, and the trigger MIGHT catch once in a while, as apparently with the barrel out of place, he had ground hither and yon on ALL of the trigger assembly to get it to fit. This started off as a Kit Carson kit, judged by my gunsmith as something that probably cost about $1,000 back in the 70s, and had been sitting around for a long time. There is an entire thread, (on another forum, sorry), dedicated to how he resurrected this baby in a few months, to this beauty.
This is Da Boy's favorite rifle, the one he calls "stupid fun", and while he likes emptying a magazine like anyone else, he will happily spend hours shooting just 6-8 louds out of this gun. It is also very accurate, and reliable.
I looked at a 625 JM in a large gun shop last week. The first thing I noticed was the trigger pull seemed impossibly light. It was so light that I doubt it would set off any ammo. When I opened the cylinder the forcing cone caught my eye right away. It did not look right at all. I was feeling it up and noticed a pretty heavy burr running the whole way around the outside of the forcing cone. Closed the cylinder to eyeball the cylinder barrel gap. It was easy to spot at what looked like a real heavy sixteenth of an inch. A couple screw heads were mangled. It had rubber grips covering the front strap so I don’t know if the strain screw was loosened or if Bubba did something else to cause the light trigger pull. I coulda had that baby for a measly $975…..plus 6% tax and background check fee.
Tallball I agree with lee n. field. I believe I would try bead blasting the slides on both pistols that have been "polished". I like a matte stainless finish but I have never had any desire to own a shiny gun. I might need to be able to see the front sight on a sunny day. I would probably remove the rust from the front strap on that Kahr (mechanically or chemically) If the frame is stainless all the way through once you get the ferrous metal particles that are imbedded in the stainless gone it should not rust again. After that I would probably just put a piece of tread tape/skateboard tape over it to cover the mess.
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Tallball
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That's good advice. If either of those pistols is ever more than a range toy, they'll need to have their slides unshiny-ed, slide serrations repaired, slide release on the Kahr replaced, etc.
I'm going to start working on the Kahr grip today while watching football. First step is to get all of the gunk out of the little gouges.
They'll probably just be range toys, though. I already have a PM9 and CM45 to fill those particular roles for SD.
