Buffalo Bore 150 Grain Wadcutters & S&W Vintage 640 Centennial Compatible?

Status
Not open for further replies.
MaxP said:
Buffalo Bore tests from real revolvers and not test barrels.
Click to expand...

Yes, I have read their advertising.
I wonder how they test to be able to assure us that they are "standard pressure." They give no numbers for that and are not SAAMI members.

"Real revolvers." There is an article in Speer manuals "Why Ballisticians Get Gray" with chronograph readings for the same loads shot in a variety of guns, every .357 magnum they could line up. There were differences of as much as 200 fps between guns of the same make, model, and barrel length. BB even mentions the phenomenon.
 
If the OP does not want to shoot X ammunition in his gun then he shouldn't. There are alternatives.

Let's toss something else into the discussion. Below is a review by Paul Harrell of the very BB ammo under discussion. It's third in line in the test ammo, but for edification I watched the other tests as well. This is part three of a three part series on shooting ammo from a snub nose J frame. So the whole series is of interest.

Part III:


Discussion of standard pressure loads:



There are more, of course.
 
Last edited:
Jim Watson said:
Yes, I have read their advertising.
I wonder how they test to be able to assure us that they are "standard pressure." They give no numbers for that and are not SAAMI members.

"Real revolvers." There is an article in Speer manuals "Why Ballisticians Get Gray" with chronograph readings for the same loads shot in a variety of guns, every .357 magnum they could line up. There were differences of as much as 200 fps between guns of the same make, model, and barrel length. BB even mentions the phenomenon.
Click to expand...
This is the a response that I just received from S&W a few minutes ago - A7F2E08C-A19E-4FCE-81C2-8A08B3A522FF.jpeg
 
There are a number of gun manufacturers who do not recommend any ammo manufacturer that is not a member of Sammi. This is standard boilerplate. It has been true of S&W for some decades that they do not recommend any ammo marked +P for guns that they do not specifically say are for +P. This also is standard legalize.

Maximum pressure for the standard load of 38 Spl. is 17,500 psi. Max for the +P 38 Spl. is 18,500 psi. Both these are low.

Shooting +P in older guns (or something like BB ammo) will produce no devastating consequences. It may and likely will place wear on the gun sooner than standard pressure loads. This will require a tune up by a gun smith sooner than normally expected. I personally don't think of a gun from the 1990s an older gun.

Any ammo that you plan for carry in a J frame should be shootable by the gun toter. You select the best ammo for the job that you figure will work and that you can shoot accurately at speed. j frames are defensive guns. First off you are carrying a J frame don't try to make it into a bigger gun by carrying ammo that you find hard to shoot or don't have confidence in.

If a fella does not want to shoot BB ammo in their gun, OK.
 
tipoc said:
There are a number of gun manufacturers who do not recommend any ammo manufacturer that is not a member of Sammi. This is standard boilerplate. It has been true of S&W for some decades that they do not recommend any ammo marked +P for guns that they do not specifically say are for +P. This also is standard legalize.

Maximum pressure for the standard load of 38 Spl. is 17,500 psi. Max for the +P 38 Spl. is 18,500 psi. Both these are low.

Shooting +P in older guns (or something like BB ammo) will produce no devastating consequences. It may and likely will place wear on the gun sooner than standard pressure loads. This will require a tune up by a gun smith sooner than normally expected. I personally don't think of a gun from the 1990s an older gun.

Any ammo that you plan for carry in a J frame should be shootable by the gun toter. You select the best ammo for the job that you figure will work and that you can shoot accurately at speed. j frames are defensive guns. First off you are carrying a J frame don't try to make it into a bigger gun by carrying ammo that you find hard to shoot or don't have confidence in.

If a fella does not want to shoot BB ammo in their gun, OK.
Click to expand...
Thanks. As I’ve been mentioning, I would like to carry buffalo bore in this gun. I am not concerned about recoil. My concern is about damaging the gun. From the majority of replies that I have been receiving (including yours) I think it’s safe to say that the gun will be OK.
 
I know this is off topic....but MY GOD. $34 for 20 rounds?!? Are they insane? That's $1.70/pc? I'm loading generic DEWC 148 38 spcl loads (803 fps ave from a 4" barrel) for under $5.50/box of 50, not 20. I'm not normally one to say this kind of thing, but this kind of ammo is a prime reason to reload.
 
Typetwelve said:
I know this is off topic....but MY GOD. $34 for 20 rounds?!? Are they insane? That's $1.70/pc? I'm loading generic DEWC 148 38 spcl loads (803 fps ave from a 4" barrel) for under $5.50/box of 50, not 20. I'm not normally one to say this kind of thing, but this kind of ammo is a prime reason to reload.
Click to expand...

I have always been shocked by their prices myself. I also reload and know this ammo price is over the top. But thats what they charge and if you want to play with them you gotta pay their price. And as Tipoc said don't try to turn your 38 into a 357 mag. If you need the power of a 357 then buy a 357. The factory +P is just rebranded 38 Special the way it was originally loaded and shouldn't hurt the OPs gun. +P from Buffalo Bore is a whole other matter. I wouldn't shoot it in my 442 and its says its OK for +P. The good thing about BB is that you will be broke before you wear out your gun.

I hope someday the OP decides to start reloading. Then you can make anything you want for pennies on the dollar when using factory ammo. When I bought my first gun, a model 19 I bought one box of wad cutters and one box of 357 and then I bought dies and a press and never looked back. I recommend reloading to anyone who will listen.
 
This whole +P thing has been nothing but trouble for decades. Even "+P" ammo is hardly high pressure. .38 special is loaded to incredibly LOW pressures. Almost nothing else is loaded as weakly as .38 special... except .44 Special.

People today have gotten so scared of "+P" ammo, it seems they think it's like jamming your chambers with dynamite.
 
Stophel said:
This whole +P thing has been nothing but trouble for decades. Even "+P" ammo is hardly high pressure. .38 special is loaded to incredibly LOW pressures. Almost nothing else is loaded as weakly as .38 special... except .44 Special.

People today have gotten so scared of "+P" ammo, it seems they think it's like jamming your chambers with dynamite.
Click to expand...

Yeah, there's a ton of confusion on that one. SAMMI lists max average PSI for 38 spcl at 17K PSI, +P at 20K, so just over a 15% increase. Most well made 38 spcl revolvers can easily handle that. The jump to 357 magnum is significant, rated for 35K PSI max. There's a ton of confusion out there about all of that. 38 spcl +P is still not even in the ballpark of 357 and really isn't that hot anyway.

Looking at those Buffalo Bore the OP listed, they're not even +P rating. 1000 fps from a 4" barrel, I can load that and still be well under max std pressure loads, let alone +P.
 
640 no dash is rated.for plus p. Mine was part of the first run, serial prefix CEN, and is marked in the cylinder window "Rated for +P+".

They removed that marking eventually because the realized there is no SAAMI spec for +P+ .

Blast away with that BB ammo, she'll be just fine.
 
Mikey5oh said:
I was told by someone at S&W customer service to stay away from Buffalo Bore and Underwood because their ammo is too hot and does not load within SAAMI specs.
Click to expand...

First, that isn't S&W's technical department talking, that's the corporate lawyers. They're scared of everything. These days they probably sleep wearing a face mask.

Second, if the OP shoots a steady diet of Buffalo Bore ammunition through his gun he will be the first person I've ever heard of to do so. Good grief. If you are sold on their performance (Harrell's test showed the 158g SWC-HP was better than the factory HPs out there) buy a box to verify zero and familiarize yourself to the recoil. Buy a second box and carry some in your gun and speed strip (or what ever).

And this isn't a lifetime commitment. If you find something you believe is better, then shoot some of that. Your gun will still be fine.

Dave
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

unclenunzie
  • Locked
1991 model 640 no dash 38 special - ammo question
Replies
18
Views
1K
unclenunzie
unclenunzie
Tony_the_tiger
  • Locked
442 and 340 Velocity Tests: SBGDHP vs. Buffalo Bore 150 Wadcutter and SB XPB
Replies
12
Views
2K
Tony_the_tiger
Tony_the_tiger
F
  • Locked
S&W 642 and Buffalo Bore ammo?
Replies
6
Views
1K
riomedinamike
R
D
  • Locked
Range Report: Buffalo Bore "Lower Recoil" .38
Replies
13
Views
2K
Guillermo
G
darkcloud
  • Locked
Buffalo Bore 158 gr +P 38 Special?
Replies
18
Views
2K
1KPerDay
1KPerDay
Back
Top