Buggerin' black powder

[Boomerang]

Shame on me.

It's an 1851 Pietta.

Seems whenever I try to take apart my black powder gun, I bugger something up.
I either dent the side of the barrel while trying to take the pin out, or I bugger a screw trying to remove it.

Residue seems to get into even the screw threads, sticking them tight.

Right now I can't get the cylinder off the frame.

I even forgot for a second that it has a one piece grip, and I started to try to pry it off.

Oh, and I'm out of Bore butter, so is it okay to use olive oil after cleaning?

Shame on me, but at least I don't ruin my other non black powder guns.

 

[sundance44s]

Boomerang ..it is hard trying to keep the black powder pistols scratch and dent free ..The steel is soft and it just doesn`t take much of a slip to mess the finish up pretty bad ..I always keep a bottle of cold blueing handy and touch things up before I oil mine to put them away ..Just think cold blue and q tips ..for the cleaning bench .
The screws are of soft steel too , you can buy harder made screws from VTI if you call them , a good set of gunsmith quaility screw drivers is a big help too .

 

[Sagetown]

Hey Boomerang:

When removing the 'Wedge' Pin from the barrel, "Try using a small Brass Punch" to tap it out. It won't be as bad on the barrel if it slips.

If your gun has a 'Ram' like the 1860 models, "Set the Hammer to Half-Cock", pull down the 'Ram' to contact the 'Cylidner between its 'Chambers' and a little pressure pulls the barrel right off.

Buggered screws will almost bring tears. A good set of 'Gunsmith Screwdrivers' are valuable here. But if you can find one that will almost fit the screws, file it down until it fits the entire screw head snugly.

Gun parts, especially the Back-Straps are usually very precisely fitted, and screw removal, and replacement, should be done simultaneously. A little here and a little there.

Get some (Anti-Seize Lube) for replacing the screws and Cylinder Nipples. Coat the threads before replacing the screws.

Sage

 

[whosyrdaddy]

Boomerang,
If you can't remove the cyl. after placing hammer at half cock to drop the bolt, try turning the cyl. as it may be slightly out of round. Also try oiling the base pin / arbor as you turn it to loosen fouling.

 

[Sagetown]

as whosyrdaddy said -- and if that doesn't do it, remove the trigger and bolt. It's gotta move then.
Keep us up to date.

 

[Snaggletooth]

I have a small wooden mallet that I glued a piece of leather on. I just smack the pin a few times and it comes out. Olive oil is fine for oiling a pistol. I keep a silicone gag to wipe it down also. Screws are a whole different circus. I bought a Pachmeyer gunsmith screw drivers, Wasted my money. I use an electricians screw driver I bought at Harbor Freight. Ive never damaged the tip or scarred a gun since I started using it

 

[Smokin_Gun]

Hey Snaggletooth, how ya doin'? See your out stretchin' yur walkers.
How's the kit commin along?


SG

 

[Rikeman]

I have the Walker and use a small rubber mallet to knock out the wedge. Never leaves a mark. As far as the screws go.....I always use a small ammount of quality gun oil on the threads before replacing them.......always come out with very little effort. As far a lubing and oiling I just use a knock off crisco works great!

Good luck

 

[27th NCT]

Dude, I am right there with you!

Sometimes I feel like they make these weapons out of modeling clay. The slightest touch dents, dings, or scratches them.

I love a M1860 but my Remington disassembles a hell of alot easier then my Colt.

:banghead:

 

[sundance44s]

The only thing softer than the steel in these revolvers seems to be wood ..I always use a piece of wood dowel placed on the wedge and hit the wood with a brass hammer ..to get a stubern wedge out of an open top Colt.

 

[mykeal]

Are you talking about basic material properties or surface finish durability? They're quite different.

 

[Omnivore]

Wood or Delrin punch on the wedge.

Bring the hammer to halfcock before you try to remove the cylinder.

Use the proper screwdrivers, keep the driver aligned with the screw, and use plenty of downward force. You should be able to twist the screw head off before you ding the slot.

Lube the snot out of everything upon reassembly-- this is in stark contrast with modern smokeless gun doctrine.

Never, ever try to pry anything apart. (tisk tisk)

Some here swear by Ballistol. Never tried it, but whatever you use, use it on all the the threads too. Goop the cylinder arbor with as much lube as you can get between it and cylinder, and then some.

You will have no further sticking problems.

Keep a full set of extra screws on hand at all times-- I've had them loosen, and had one fall out, while shooting a lot.

 

[mykeal]

Lube the snot out of everything upon reassembly...Keep a full set of extra screws on hand at all times-- I've had them loosen, and had one fall out, while shooting a lot.

Doesn't that suggest that perhaps it's possible to overdo the lubrication?

I believe anti-seize is a better choice for screw threads, it's sufficient to simply coat the threads lightly.

 

[JNewell]

Yes, olive oil is OK. There are Rev War era records showing its use as a firearms lube/protectant. I would not feel compelled to use extra virgin oil, though...

 

[Gunruner]

AS myKeal said "Use anti-seize on the threads" then re-assemble. Works as good on the screws as it does on the nipples. For some reason the screws do not work loose with anti-seize like they do when oiled up? Must be the properties of the anti-seize compounds......Mike