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i would definately recomend building your own. VERY rewarding and not that difficult (if youa re in any way mechanically inclined)
Here is mine I built from a G series kit (what you are looking at) The Romanian G kit you have a link for is a great kit, highly recomended. Usually near perfect bores, seemingly little/no use, and a nice quality military spec parts kit. With compliance parts, a Nodakspud receiver, and the kit, you will still be at around $250, and you will have a rifle you built yourself.
One thing though, I would HIGHLY recomend a Nodakspud NDS-3 "economy" AKM receiver for it. It is only $55 and is predrilled for the Romanian kits, and mine was darn near spot on. Spectacular buy for $55
Below is a small list of forums deidcated to building AK's, and there are a few out there. Go read up for a few hours and you will get a sense of what is involved. Just don't get discouraged, it really is not a big deal to build one. If you need any other help just ask--
Before further reading, are any major tools etc required? What kind of tooling would you need to start from scratch. I don't have much beyond a Dremel.
I have always been curious about the build-your-own guns, but was never sure if it was something I wanted to do. If the kits and receivers are that cheap, it might be good to get a couple for later on.
To do the build correctly, you need a device for pulling the barrel *usually a hydraulic press* a device for crushing the rivets and also a drill capable of drilling through some stout metal. The NDS receivers are heat treated and quite hard.
Some people use gear pullers to remove the barrel and a worm screw to reinstall it. I myself use the hydraulic press. You will also need a device to punch out the barrel pin. Some people use a big freaking hammer, but I dont recommend it. Sometimes the pins are in there so tight that it takes all the force of a 12 ton press to remove. Smashing on it with a hammer can deform the pin and make it impossible to get back in.
A modified bolt cutter can be used to crush the rivets. I use a fixture to hold the triggerguard in place while putting in those rivets, and a special tool to put in the front and rear trunnion rivets.
It can be expensive to get started. You might want to have a smith do the job for you if you only plan on doing one.
major tools for a full bend and build are a bending jig, a press, experience with riviting, some form of torch for heat treating. grinder to de rivit the old parts kits
witha 80% reciever you will need a drill press and all the stuff above except jig. press isnt nessasary but helps
for a 100% reciever build you will need basic shop tools. press not nessasry but definatly helps. if you dont have rivit experience i wouldnt try to learn ont he AK. either practice before, or do a screw build.
there are MANY different ways to go. Flat receiver versus 100%, barrel pulled with press versus gear puller, etc.... There are a few major steps that have to be done, that can be done in different ways so don't assume you HAVE to go one route. A perfect example of this is pulling the barrel, as Gun Wielding Maniac stated, you can use a hydrolic press OR use the gear puller device from Autozone for $12.
The two basic builds are a rivet build, and a screw build. The differences are in how the receiver is held in place to the trunnions and the trigger guard. One you obviously use a rivet smasher to crush the rivets into place, the other you tap the trunnions to take 10-32 screws. I used a screw build on mine. Technically there is a third method called the U drive method, but the jury is still out on that one being safe or not
The jury isnt still out on the U-drive... Several people have been hurt from guns that have failed that were built with U-drive's. Don't even go there.
The jury isnt still out on the U-drive... Several people have been hurt from guns that have failed that were built with U-drive's. Don't even go there.
Well a U drive is a fastener that is hammered into place and gives the finished appearance of a rivet. People have been using them as the fastening device to hold the trunnions in place, giving the look of rivet builds, without all the hassle.
The BIG debate is in how safe they are. U drive fasteners were originally disigned to attach plates and such in non load bearing applications. I have seen threads where people claim to have run 2000 rounds through one with no problems, others swear its's a disaster waiting to happen.
Myself, I haven't a clue. I am not currently going to risk myself on an unknown right now. Better to go with the screw build (easier) or rivet build (prettier)
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