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Building False Cover

Discussion in 'Competition Shooting' started by Good Ol' Boy, Aug 11, 2019.

  1. Good Ol' Boy

    Good Ol' Boy Member

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    If this doesn't belong here feel free to move it mods.

    I'm looking at building two or three "blinds" for cover like you see at a competition so that I can get some more involved practice at home.

    I have a pretty good idea of what I want to do. I have plenty of experience building things as I was a carpenter for many years and currently work at a lumber mill. Materials and hardware aren't an issue for the most part.

    I'm curious what some of you that have courses set up at home have done. Mine would need to be easily moved so I can cut grass and I haven't decided yet whether to leave them outside or put them in the garage when not in use. It would certainly be easier for me to leave them outside but I know what kind of wear that entails.


    Please, share....
     
  2. egd

    egd Member

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    Build "walls" out of pvc pipe, 1" is better" and cover them with orange safety type netting. they are lightweight and can be left out. If you can weld you can make some metal stands with flat steel and tubing to slide the legs of the wall down into. That is what our club uses.
     
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  3. Chuck R.

    Chuck R. Member

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    I have a VTAC Barricade, a Bianchi Barricade and a couple walls:

    jUJBafr.jpg

    SOzLKG2.jpg

    qpf77nl.jpg

    Also take a look at getting some 'Blue' barrels:

    0Gbmqlq.jpg

    Probably the most useful, but hardest to make is the VTAC. Forcing shots through the holes is a good drill all by itself.
     
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  4. Jim Watson

    Jim Watson Member

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    Ranges hereabouts use 2x2s, 2x4s, and open mesh for dividers. A barricade meant to be leaned on has to be sturdier; 2x4 and plywood is usual.
    I see some hybrid types with wood frames dropping into metal sockets.
    PVC is pretty delicate, especially after it has stood out in the sun.
     
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  5. ATLDave

    ATLDave Member

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    For most practice purposes, the most efficient and easy thing to do is just staple up a couple of targets turned around to the no-shoot side. Combine them with some 2x2 fault lines and you can practice dealing with all kinds of wall scenarios.
     
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  6. shoobe01

    shoobe01 Member

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    There are plans about for the typical barricades like the VTAC here: https://www.vikingtactics.com/v/vspfiles/pdf/vtacBarricade.pdf, so you can get the ports in the right place, etc. Bianchi barricades are a standard size as well: https://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=173446. Bianchi barricades can be built to fold up; we use some at the local IDPA club and it's convenient for storage, to keep them from getting damaged. For outside ranges, generally either use really good materials or make them easy to move so you can store them, at least over winter.

    And don't get too good at your work. Barricades at ranges/matches are mostly horribly built, you can't rely on them for being sturdy support. For best practice, make yours wobbly also. :)
     
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  7. Chuck R.

    Chuck R. Member

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    I just hosed mine down with exterior house paint and while I could easily store them in the barn over the winter, I just leave them out year round. Cool part about the VTAC design, you can get 2 barricades cut from a single 8x4 sheet of plywood.
     
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  8. shoobe01

    shoobe01 Member

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    Even painted, even "marine" plywood, I see enough delamination on the edges. No issues once painted enough?
     
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  9. Chuck R.

    Chuck R. Member

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    Not yet and it's been 5 years. You could easily enough cover the exterior edges with channel material, but it's just a matter of time before you or someone else puts some rounds through it......everything on a range is subject to some damage.
     
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  10. jmorris

    jmorris Member

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    Sometimes I just use a target stand and a hunk of cardboard. Instead of a target up close or a plastic barrel.

    I have also built my own modular setup from 1” box tubing and 1/4” plate with 3/4” barstock posts.

    I use safety fence so it’s not as much of a parachute and I can still see through it (safety). As long as they are configured correctly I don’t even have to stake them down. An “l” will fall over without being staled but am “L”, “[“, “T”, “Z”, etc won’t.

    D8150210-FF1D-4ED6-BC1E-54C6D583D659.jpeg

    F81FE228-9212-484B-9E08-35919F663484.jpeg
     
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