Buying a “custom” Mauser online?

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Olympus

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Guys, I’ve been on the rifle hunt for a while now. I don’t have a beer budget and champagne taste. Lately I’ve been kicking around the idea of buying a cheap “custom” Mauser on GB for a unique deer rifle. I’m looking at guns that have a fairly decent walnut stock, but might need some cosmetic work. Something I could use as a project so speak. Something that can be used like it is, but that I could send to a gunsmith down the road for rebluing or bedding or to rechamber or Ackley Improve. It seems the “custom” Mauser runs the gamut on pricing, but maybe there are deals to be had for someone who it’s afraid to have a little more work done down the road. What do you think? Is this a fool’s errand? I’m pretty much bored with out of the box rifles.

Here are some that I’ve been watching:

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/787498405
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/787579598
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/787510572
 
I wouldn't say it's a fool's errand. I would say out-of-the-box can be good or boring. If I were in the market for a .250Savage or 7x57, those first two look pretty good from here. They may not need any more work.
 
I think if you have a practical rifle that you can always grab, none of this is a fools errand. That being said, I wouldn’t recommend a wildcat as a first and only rifle cartridge.

I have a 30-30 Ackley improved and handload for plenty other unique “obsolete” cartridges. I like that I have something no one else has, and the research of handloading for the unique cartridge can be entertainment on its own.

I say go for it. But have the mindset not to make a sporter when you build the rifle, but a beautiful custom gun
 
Bringing up fools errands is not in good taste.:) By all appearances rifle #1 and #2 show some quality work. Rifle #3 the Spanish Mauser will never be in the class as the first two. It would cost serious money to duplicate #1 and #2. I suspect it would easily run into the thousands of $. Right, on standard calibers. What ever you do make sure you use good quality action and barrel-no junk.
 
Couple of quick observations, stick to the std. Mauser 98 actions--the 1936 Mexican is an oddball small ring barrel receiver and uses a unique bolt. If you wanted to change cartridges, it would be an expensive fix requiring a gunsmith.

The last rifle, the Spanish 93/1916 model, is an example of making a sporter out of a rare animal and actually decreasing value. This rare firearm came from the efforts of the Catalan separatists in Cataluna that were part of the Republican effort to produce arms. These were only made for three years and most of the receivers with this information were scrubbed. A lot of reports call these substandard in production quality as well.

Now for the longer part,

The last rifle's example is why milsurp collectors react so harshly to those sporterizing military rifles--the various markings, finishing, cartouches, stocks, hardware, etc. tell a story that is maimed and obliterated by the sporter process. On a rare rifle such as the last one, it is a financial loss, the firearm may be unsafe for firing live ammo safely, and history was destroyed--all to make a substandard sporter.

https://forums.gunboards.com/showth...h-Republican-M1916-Second-Pattern-Short-Rifle

If you want a good guide to Mauser actions in general with some information on sportering them--get Kuhnhausen's Shop Manual on the Mauser Action. There are better books on the actual sportering of Mausers but none are as good as Kuhnhausen on evaluating up to century old actions and parts.

Now, the k98. Parts, including new bolts, are still available. Most gunsmiths know how to work on them and determine whether or not a particular rifle is unsafe--a typical issue is lug setback as Mauser receivers are a case hardened sandwich over a softer core. Over pressure rounds or continuous use of a higher pressure cartridge than the heat treatment was designed for can produce lug setback and headspacing problems. Requalifying the barrel (setting it back) only delays the inevitable for a short time. Obviously, since so many Mausers were made, and rebarrelling is easier to do than competing designs, you will find these and barrels available in a variety of quality, finish, etc. The preceding models before the 98 Mauser should be used with cartridges and handloads that fit the pressure profiles of the original cartridge for the rifle. Metallurgy was not as well understood and production (heat treatment for example and the effect of impurities in the steel) of these rifles during the early smokeless era means that you really should not expect to use a modern 60000 psi cartridge in a receiver designed for 40000 psi.

The mauser 98 actions can be divided into country and when produced. If you want a sporter capable of modern cartridge pressures, then look for those made in the 1930's from Germany or the Czech Republic, post war from FN are fine (JC Higgins, Sears Store brand, used FN receivers for some of their sporting rifles), and some of the outstanding sporters from the Mauser mothership plant (Mauser banner label) at Oberndorf. German and Czech receivers made during WWII got progressively worse, there were supply problems with the steel, and some German ones were produced in factory prisons by slave laborers. I would personally avoid any made after 1943 to the end of the war in 1945.

Post war Spanish receivers are decent and several importers used Yugoslavian made receivers (Charles Daly for example) that are of good quality steel and finish. Steyr and later FN sold a lot of rifles to Latin America pre WWII and these are commonly encountered as well. Make sure that you get to observe the receiver below the stock line as some of these have horrendous pitting below it making the rifles unsafe to fire. A lot of unscrupulous or ignorant folks simply ground off material until the pitting disappeared on these above the stock line. There is also a need to remember that Mauser magazine lips are built into the receiver for feeding the original cartridge--alterations of these can affect feeding and can actually be dangerous when people wanting to feed longer cartridges grind and remove material from the receiver to allow it to fit.

My long winded post is simply to remind folks wanting to do this is to do your research before purchasing something that may not be suitable for what you want. I would also discourage folks from chopping up existing complete military surplus rifles as they will lose value in doing so and might be like the fellow who "improved" the rare 1916 model at auction listed above who destroyed a relatively rare rifle to make a potentially unsafe run of the mill sporter. A easy way to start is buy an action without a barrel to start--those which have the markings obliterated or already altered can often work. New barrels are available for Mausers, not so much for other makes which will require machining to work from a barrel blank or buying a used barrel of uncertain quality. For that reason, I would advise using a Mauser 98 action as a starting point giving the most options to sporterize.

Military surplus rifles were designed to be rugged, work in all weather, feed all sorts of ammunition, allow a bayonet mounting, and be accurate enough for minute of man. They were not designed to be sub MOA rifles--the designs themselves may be capable but to get there from an issued rifle is expensive and/or time consuming effort. If money is at issue, a Savage Axis will probably have a better trigger, fire new high pressure cartridges with aplomb, already be prepared for scoping, and be more accurate than most accurized military surplus sporters. If you want to take that journey, there are several folks on this forum who can help--LoonWulf, MachIV Shooter, Varminterror, GunnyUSMC, and also THR moderators as well.
 
As mentioned, I’d start with a commercial action/rifle for a build. FN, Dumoulin, maybe interarms. All of these will be higher fit and finish than a military Mauser, and have higher resale value as a “sporting rifle”. No matter how custom you make a military Mauser, someone still can validly call it a “sporter” instead of “sporting rifle” close names but big difference in pedigree.
 
My bucket list rifle was finally completed. I already had a converted BYF 43 Mauser action. The action was matching. It had been salvaged from a WW2 bring back that had been butchered by Bubba. Having supplied that action the balance of work including parts was $1000.00.The stock was a Bell&Carlson.

The small ring Mauser, #1,r action may be from a WW1 KAR 98. I'd just about bet money that action was salvaged from another sporter. Mexican Mauser actions, #2, appear to be uncommon in the US. There is nothing wrong with those actions. I think you will find some big ticket rifles built up on those actions. Some of the earlier 1910 actions were imported here thirty or so years ago. These on the average were pretty rough.

Also, I'd suggest doing some homework on what rounds will feed through a Mauser. There is some indication that there may be serious problems feeding with some improved cartridges. That last rifle is a POS.
 
My bucket list rifle was finally completed. I already had a converted BYF 43 Mauser action. The action was matching. It had been salvaged from a WW2 bring back that had been butchered by Bubba. Having supplied that action the balance of work including parts was $1000.00.The stock was a Bell&Carlson.

The small ring Mauser, #1,r action may be from a WW1 KAR 98. I'd just about bet money that action was salvaged from another sporter. Mexican Mauser actions, #2, appear to be uncommon in the US. There is nothing wrong with those actions. I think you will find some big ticket rifles built up on those actions. Some of the earlier 1910 actions were imported here thirty or so years ago. These on the average were pretty rough.

Also, I'd suggest doing some homework on what rounds will feed through a Mauser. There is some indication that there may be serious problems feeding with some improved cartridges. That last rifle is a POS.
The top rifle has had its markings altered on the left receiver wall.

I have a BYF 43 action that was tapped and a bit battered. One thing that I've noticed is that Oberndorf apparently kept up their standards even during WWII versus some of the other plants including heat treatment. For some reason, all of my German Mausers have ended up being Oberndorfs.

The first mauser's script on the receiver's left wall appears to be more in line with a WWII vintage mod 98 than the 98 az Kar. but as you said, on closer look on the receiver ring, it does seem to be a small ring receiver or a very skinny sporter barrel. The Mexican 36 is an odd duck among intermediate actions and the only reason to be a bit wary is that original bolts are made of unobtanium as they are unique to that action. If the bolt is bollixed, you want to lap the bolt lugs for full enagement, or you want to change cartridge head types, you could be out of luck.
 
KAR98: That's also the way KAR 98's from WWI were marked. My point was that that action may have salvaged from another sporting rifle. Work on those rifles looks to be high quality. Here, I have a Mauser made Standard Modell 98 action made for the Chinese Nationalist before WW2. I'd put the fit and finish on those vintage actions up against anybodies.

There was nothing extra ordinary that would make any problems with the Mexican 1936 action any different than any other Mauser. Keep in mind these were 7x57's. Right, you need to get an action in good shape. Parts could be a real problem. Right, get an FN, Brno, or decent German made action. Also, pay attention to the age of the action. Recently, I was shown a custom rifle in 300WSM built on a GEW98 from WWI. Would you build a magnum rifle on an action which the newest is one hundred year old?

Factors that makes discussing Mauser's get complicated is numbers-all hundred million of them. We start fussing about marking and we'll have forty-seven different people show up with the same Mauser rifle with different marks.
 
Look for a Husqvarna or a Danish post war "commercial" Mauser. These are generally available in easy "American" calibers such as .270 and 30-06, although you will also find them occasionally in 6.5x55 or 9.3x62. The craftsmanship on them is very good, including metallurgy, and they are a true Mauser 98 long action. This would be the easy route to a quality rifle given good bore condition (or a rebarrel if bore is shot).

As for the military actions, some truly amazing sporters are out there for very affordable prices. Also don't overlook the M17 "Enfield" action either. Look for a German, Czech, Belgian made action. The Turk M38 98 pattern is also a fine action, although there are some issues with stocking one, as they often require more inletting and/or glass. I would avoid the M93 or M95 patterns, simply due to age and metallurgy.

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/787153260

This might be right up your alley

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/788790024

This would be a nice piece also, on the commercial version of the M17 action
 
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Here's what about $600 and a lot of elbow grease can get you (not counting scope and mount). K98 barreled .280 rem action with shilen barrel (gunsmith leftover/retirement) $250. Gunsmith D/T $60. Richards Microfit Grade A Claro Walnut, aprox $200. Acraglas and misc makes up the rest. A fine, interesting, functional and beautiful hunting rifle. I may add a better trigger at some point and shoot an occasional PRS match with it, still using the military 2-stage, but it's minute of deer to reasonable ranges so not a high priority. As it sits, it has earned the name "The Death Ray" among my hunting and shooting friends. Everything I aim it at dies.
 

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Now you are working smart! You can go from there without mortgaging the house. I'm not sure about the FN story. What became the MarkX was in production while FN was still making Mauser based rifles. Herter's imported these rifles in the 1960's. Of course they were the "Model Perfect." You can find many happy Whitworth owners sharing on the net.

Addendum: If you were speaking of my bolt handle I'd do it again. The action was a pre-war Mauser Banner marked military action.It all depends on the action.
 
I bypassed all of that nonsense and picked up a CZ Mark X Whitworth in .30-06 for $400.00. It's a modernized Mauser made on what had been F/N machinery. It's not quite as smooth as most F/Ns but I really like it.
That's actually a ZCZ rifle, Zavodi Crvena Zastava, made in Yugoslavia before that nation disintegrated, Serbia since. They are great CRF bolt action rifles IME & my use (hunting). There's a sudden influx of thise rifles on the US gun auction sites, making for some really competitive pricing, as well as models I never saw available in the USA before. Example: a 7X64mn 20" barrel full stock (Mannlicher style) I picked up last month.

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/845909106

There were Interarms Mark X, Whitworth, Charles Daly, Remington 798, and Zastava M70 bolt action, all using the same barreled actions over the decades. The Whitworth rifles I've picked up have the nicest wood stocks IMO. One I have is a full stock 20" barrel in .270 Winchester, the other is a full stock 20" barrel in .243 Winchester.

Some of those labels supplied some, or all, of the stocks they were mounted on.

https://www.zastava-arms.rs/en/profile/

The current US importer, Zastava Arms USA, is only importing a limited selection of calibers and configurations vs what the factory produces. There's a link to a pdf catalog that shows all the options.

https://zastavaarmsusa.com/product/sporting-rifle-lk-m70/

https://zastavaarmsusa.com/catalog/
 
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My choice for a starting point would be a nice postwar FN commercial action -- lots around to choose from, better steel alloys and no thumb notch. They are common enough that a good example branded by Sears or Wards is often bargain priced.

Husqvarna used FN Mauser actions until their Carl Gustav spinoff of the 98 was introduced in the 1950s. Look for the Belgian proof on the receiver that resembles a candle stick. Simpson Ltd usually has a bunch to choose from, with better photos than you'd typically find on Gunbroker: https://simpsonltd.com/husqvarna-rifles/
 
None of the three you link will open for me so I can't speak to them.

Something too, that you might like to loo at are the FNs on Mauser actions. The top here is a 1966, Safari in .30-06. They don't generally draw a premium for the *Safari Grade* but will be a nice starting point to tart-up in the future.

FIRST THOUGH..... SCHOOL YOURSELF ON A THING CALLED **SALT STOCKS** TO STEER CLEAR OF THAT MISTAKE.

Then too, how about looking at the ultimate development of the Mauser:neener: in the form of a sporterized U.S. surplus 1903. I found this one still in .30-06 and it shoots too well to even unscrew the barrel for a polish & blue.... yet. No problem hunting with it but about 20 hours would tune it to a fine *legacy-grade* rifle.

Todd.
IMG_1205.JPG
 
Be careful buying sporterized military Mausers online. Make sure they left the serial number intact or you'll hit a serious snag when it reaches your local dealer. I bought a really nice guild gun online a few years back. When the work was done they removed the serial number and ever since everyone had used the number off the bolt. Not my dealer. The local police seized it and after several phone calls to the ATF, there was no way around it. Luckily the seller refunded my money but it was on consignment and the owner was SOL.
 
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