How precise do calipers have to be in reloading? I have a Neiko digital caliper but the jaws don't shut all the way closed, they stay open about .003 to .005 of an inch, would it hurt anything to just add the.003 to .005 to every measurement when zero'd out? I got it last year in April so I don't have any purchase paperwork and it is supposed to have a one year warranty, should I press the issue and try to have Neiko replace it? I knocked off the reloading bench a couple of times, do you think that caused this situation to happen? Thanks. 74man
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bullseye308
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I’d try and get it replaced. If it isn’t repeatable it isn’t reliable and I’d definitely not use it myself.
Atavar
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You could find an alternate standard for zeroing. Get a machinist to cut you a standard block at 0.010” and use that to set the start.
You could also get a small piece of stock and have someone with a calibrated caliper measure it and use that for your starting value.
Better try cleaning and find out why it’s not closing and fix it.
if you can get it replaced do that.
Edit: I just realized you said digital so you can’t set a start other than 0. This is one of many reasons I prefer dial calipers to digital.
You could put a .01 piece in, zero there and subtract .01 from measurements I suppose.
You could also get a small piece of stock and have someone with a calibrated caliper measure it and use that for your starting value.
Better try cleaning and find out why it’s not closing and fix it.
if you can get it replaced do that.
Edit: I just realized you said digital so you can’t set a start other than 0. This is one of many reasons I prefer dial calipers to digital.
You could put a .01 piece in, zero there and subtract .01 from measurements I suppose.
LiveLife
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For me, calipers for reloading should be accurate to .001".
Since I often measure round bullets/case necks, I prefer to verify accuracy "feel" of my calipers with pin gages which are around $5 - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...ks-for-digital-calibers.821135/#post-10545265
BTW, Frankford Arsenal dial calipers I bought a few years ago have consistently read my pin gages and match readings of my Brown & Sharpe micrometer.
Since I often measure round bullets/case necks, I prefer to verify accuracy "feel" of my calipers with pin gages which are around $5 - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...ks-for-digital-calibers.821135/#post-10545265
BTW, Frankford Arsenal dial calipers I bought a few years ago have consistently read my pin gages and match readings of my Brown & Sharpe micrometer.
LaneP
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As mentioned previously, .001" accuracy is fine. Having a set that doesn't close correctly would drive me nuts, I would be getting a new one. Dial calipers are not very expensive these days.
DukeConnor
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30 bucks at lowes gets you one good enough for reloading.
earlthegoat2
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There is an ingrained human trait that just because something can be more accurate then it should always be that accurate.
My dad was a tool and die maker who was the tool room supervisor at a manufacturing facility. The workers under him insisted on making their items to the .001” because they could and it was apparently a point of pride.
The tolerances called for +/- .010”. They were wasting time and money by making the parts to .001”.
Woodworkers fall into the same trap. The finest woodworking will only deal with tolerances down to 1/64” (.016) and yet I know woodworkers who have machinists tools that are accurate to .0001 that cost an order of magnitude higher than a perfectly acceptable measuring tool that measure to the .001”. It’s just human nature. If you can then you should, in and of itself.
But it’s not necessarily true. Firearms themselves are mostly made to tolerances of no more than .005” and often as high as .050”.
There are exceptions of course and this thread, directly and indirectly deals with a few. Chambering and headspace often will be in the .001-.003 area. More appropriately this measurement is called headspace clearance. Getting cartridges to the proper size is very important for firearm functionality, safety, and accuracy.
The accuracy of your measuring tools for hand loading, specifically the caliper, all depends on your wants and needs. Hunting ammo can very easily be made with up to .010” tolerances in case length and COAL as long as headspace is maintained through proper brass processing. Measuring tools will not make the quality of your dies an/or press any better though.
Finely made precision ammo would benefit from .001” precision and accuracy of measuring tools and the holding of the tighter tolerances these tools will allow.
My dad was a tool and die maker who was the tool room supervisor at a manufacturing facility. The workers under him insisted on making their items to the .001” because they could and it was apparently a point of pride.
The tolerances called for +/- .010”. They were wasting time and money by making the parts to .001”.
Woodworkers fall into the same trap. The finest woodworking will only deal with tolerances down to 1/64” (.016) and yet I know woodworkers who have machinists tools that are accurate to .0001 that cost an order of magnitude higher than a perfectly acceptable measuring tool that measure to the .001”. It’s just human nature. If you can then you should, in and of itself.
But it’s not necessarily true. Firearms themselves are mostly made to tolerances of no more than .005” and often as high as .050”.
There are exceptions of course and this thread, directly and indirectly deals with a few. Chambering and headspace often will be in the .001-.003 area. More appropriately this measurement is called headspace clearance. Getting cartridges to the proper size is very important for firearm functionality, safety, and accuracy.
The accuracy of your measuring tools for hand loading, specifically the caliper, all depends on your wants and needs. Hunting ammo can very easily be made with up to .010” tolerances in case length and COAL as long as headspace is maintained through proper brass processing. Measuring tools will not make the quality of your dies an/or press any better though.
Finely made precision ammo would benefit from .001” precision and accuracy of measuring tools and the holding of the tighter tolerances these tools will allow.
Mark_Mark
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DukeConnor
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I have found that dropping a good one or a cheap one ends up with the same results.
GeoDudeFlorida
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Get some canned air and blow out the sliding parts. If they still won’t zero, replace them. Dial calipers are cheap. Blowing up a gun isn’t.
I worked in aerospace and can tell you for sure there are plenty of inexpensive calipers out there that are just as good as The Big S&M Boys (Starrett and Mitutoyo) and some that cost a bunch but aren’t worth the cash. Harbor Freight carries decent tools at good prices. Replace them then treat them with a little more care.
I worked in aerospace and can tell you for sure there are plenty of inexpensive calipers out there that are just as good as The Big S&M Boys (Starrett and Mitutoyo) and some that cost a bunch but aren’t worth the cash. Harbor Freight carries decent tools at good prices. Replace them then treat them with a little more care.
jmorris
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Do you have any standards or gauge blocks/pins? I have found cheap ones to test just fine myself but I don’t just assume that they are all OK, even expensive ones get a confirmation of calibration, that’s the point of standards, to check and confirm.
Any decent micrometer set has them but they are another level of precision above what calipers are intended for.
Any decent micrometer set has them but they are another level of precision above what calipers are intended for.
johnjohn
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Harbor Freight dial or digital both work good enough for reloading.
Blue68f100
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Confirm they are correct at distance, 1", 2", 3"..... If off by 0.003" your zero needs to be reset. Clean the jaws good, it only takes a spec to throw zero off.
LiveLife
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I would disagree until they were verified with gages/standards.
While older digital calipers sold more than 10 years ago were good and accurately verified feeler gages and pin gages, I could not find their made in China dial calipers to be accurate to .001" over the years I tested them. (Now that most of their measuring tools/better premium tools are made in Taiwan, things could be different)
So I suggest you order $5 pin gages for calibers you intend to reload and test whether HF calipers are indeed accurate - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...ks-for-digital-calibers.821135/#post-10545265
Mark_Mark
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is that your Micrometer collection? NICE
I also prefer dial calipers. Not necessarily for just this reason but also, the batteries never wear out in my dial calipers.
As others have said, a $30-$40 caliper is more than adequate for reloading. Also, they cost alot less to replace if dropped or otherwise get damaged.
Jim Watson
Member
Send it back and see what they do.
As one old time machinist said, drop your micrometer, pick it up and rezero it. Drop your caliper, walk around it to go get your spare.
As one old time machinist said, drop your micrometer, pick it up and rezero it. Drop your caliper, walk around it to go get your spare.
JFrank
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I have been using Harbor Freight calipers for several years, they measure and display to more than adequate levels.
We don’t require lab grade tools to reload ammunition.
We don’t require lab grade tools to reload ammunition.
Bcwitt
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Get a case of known length & keep it as a standard. Make one up for each caliber you are reloading & just check it against your brass.
LiveLife
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Because calipers can wear at different parts, IMO should be checked at measurement ranges they are used at.
So for measuring 9mm/40S&W/45ACP bullet diameters and taper crimps, I use .355"/.400"/.451" pin gages - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...ks-for-digital-calibers.821135/#post-10545265
I just started reloading for pistol and rifle. I am respectfully wondering why you need such high accuracy? My dad reloaded rifle for over fifty years using a General slide caliper that was accurate to maybe 1/64 of an inch, and the ammo was quite accurate, and I would assume safe because there was never a mishap. This was for hunting, not competition, but I am amazed that measurements accurate to thousandths of an inch are necessary.
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