Calling all S&W model 66 owners

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Desertrat357

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I'm a Ruger guy. I'll be honest, I enjoy my GP100. As well as my Blackhawk and my SP-101. And I am also unabashedly fond of the 357 magnum. I have always enjoyed the smooth actions and the good looking lines of Smith & Wessons. Which is the reason for this post. I like a revolver with some nostalgia. And the re-released model 66 looks good to me. I understand it has all the items nobody likes, I.E. Internal lock, MIM internals etc. but it still at least resembles the "combat magnum". Through my reading, this newest model has had some changes made in key areas to beaf it up. My intentions wouldn't be to shoot hundreds of hot 357s each range session. Any owners of the new 66-8 that can share thoughts and opinions? Or is the possibility of "shooting it loose" so slim to not even worry about it.
 
Desertrat357,

Please don't take this wrong, but why would anybody pay good money for a new model 66 that is full of MIM parts, when you can pay less for a nice used model 66 or 66-1 that is pinned and recessed and has forged parts. In the last 2 months I have bought 3 of these older 66's, paying $640, $660, and $800 (2.5" barrel which commands a premium). Plus, it's nice to be able to buy something, use it, and watch it appreciate in value. Just MHO.

Don
 
I have a model 66-4. One of my absolute favorite firearms. I got it used instead of the new model simply because it was $100 cheaper and the trigger was already broke in. Although I personally would not hesitate to purchase the new model. The complaints about new S&W revolvers are simply cosmetic based or based on hearsay. Fact is, they work.

I say get it. My older model may look a little prettier but I would bet yours would last longer due to not already having an unknown number or rounds already through it.
 
The new Model 66 is just not for me. They ruined the gun IMHO. The matte finish looks awful, the controls are colored black for some reason, it's not a "true" K-frame anymore, the MIM which I would rather not have, and the IL that I would NOT have, period.

But, if it floats your boat, get one. Just keep in mind you can get a REAL Model 66, gently used, for the same or less money... and it's going to be the better gun, and will appreciate in value far better if you ever plan to sell it.

Just saying.
 
USSR said:
Please don't take this wrong, but why would anybody pay good money for a new model 66 that is full of MIM parts, when you can pay less for a nice used model 66 or 66-1 that is pinned and recessed and has forged parts.
Click to expand...

Maybe because not everyone discounts newer guns simply because they contain MIM parts? In fact, newer S&Ws generally have a number of features that'd make them my choice for guns that I'm going to shoot a bunch.

If you're mainly interested in nostalgia, look to an older 66. The new 66s, however, seem to get good reviews, and if I were looking for a .357mag k-frame to shoot a bunch, I'd certainly consider a new M66.

The "beafed (sic) up" part is a full forcing cone, made possible with it's 2-piece barrel. The 2-piece barrel design is also known for it's accuracy.

The new 66 also locks up in the front with a ball detent on the yoke instead of with a bolt that engages the front of the ejector rod. This is significant because the ejector rod turns as the cylinder turns, and an ejector rod that's even slightly bent can affect the action of an older 66.

As to durability and "shooting it loose", a steady diet of full-house .357mags will likely loosen up any k-frame eventually, new or old.

Cooldill said:
it's not a "true" K-frame anymore
Click to expand...

ok, this is a new one. Care to tell us why?
 
The only reason that I would consider the new one is because it has been billed as being stronger than the old ones. I'm not saying that I believe this as the gospel truth. Hence my post with the questions. I don't have any personal experience where an older 66 "shot" loose on me. If I really wouldn't be gaining much strength with a 66-8, then I will certainly keep my eyes peeled for a clean used one.
 
Because the new Model 66 Combat Magnum .357 and Model 69 5-shot .44 Magnum are not K-Frames.

They are reworked L-Frames giving enough room in the cylinder window by using a larger cylinder in a larger frame then the K-Frame.

rc
 
The M69 .44mag is an L-frame, but the new M66 is still a K-frame. I once compared the new M66 side-by-side to an L-frame, and the M66's cylinder isn't as big as the L-frame's.

Are you thinking they beefed up the forcing cone by making the frame window bigger? As far as I know (and saw), it was done via the 2-piece barrel, while keeping it a K-frame.
 
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Not to change the subject, ever consider an L-frame S&W? A model 686 if you got to have stainless.
Click to expand...

I was just thinking the same thing myself. I own a 66-2 with the target hammer and trigger. It is a wonderful gun but I would never consider feeding it a steady diet of .357 magnum rounds. It is mostly a .38 special range plinker and nostalgia gun for me. You can pick up a decent 686 and not have to worry about hot loads. The older 686's still have the classic lines and half under lug barrel.
 
I don't believe that is possible in a true K-Frame.

The problem was, and is, the cylinder gas shield / crane is too close to the bore centerline.

So the bottom of the barrel that projected through the frame had to be cut to clear it, leaving little room to cut the forcing cone.

I have not seen a new one, so I should probably just shut up.

But I can't get it through my head how a sleeved barrel shroud would leave a bigger barrel shank to cut the forcing cone in??

Someone explain it to me if I am thinking this through wrong.

rc
 
I have considered the 586/686

Particularly the 586 L Comp. I'm sure I'll never shoot enough in my lifetime to ever shoot out a model 66. However, I do prefer robust firearms. That is why I like the GP 100. So perhaps I should lean more towards the L frame.

My thoughts on the 5/686 : The L Comp is one fine looking Revolver. But is the extra money worth it?
 
I have a new 66-8 and a 19-3 -- my calipers say that they are the same dimentionally.

Here's how S&W reengineered the the crane to clear the full barrel shank on the new 66-8.

IMG_0639_zps339ba85c.jpg

I bought the 66 as a shooter that I don't have to worry about with hard use and harsh conditions. I am very satisfied.

FWIW,

Paul
 
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O.K. I was wrong.

Can you post another photo from the side so I can understand where the gas ring went??

Or is that 'thing' the gas ring replacement??

Thanks!

rc
 
I have a M66-7 and have to admit that the two-part barrel really does contribute to better accuracy. It also looks stronger than past (4) M19/66 that I have owned. The barrel passing through the frame is stronger and held under tension when threaded through the barrel shroud.

I was leery of the MIM parts, but conversations with Randy Lee assured me that the tolerances being held are much better than older guns with forged parts...not as good as the best older parts, but better than any less than the best.

They've done a lot of re-engineering...that is how they were able to do away with the locator pins for the ejector star
 
I'm thinking seriously about getting one of the "new" Model 66's to go along with the Model 69 I've got. The 69 has quickly become my favorite S&W I've ever owned, and I've owned a bunch of them. Maybe in the spring.

The things listed above, matte finish, black furniture and grips, MIM parts, locks, etc., don't bother me any. If they do you, I suspect you wouldn't be asking about a gun with those features.
 
I have S&W 66 and 67 from the 80s, and they are fine revolvers. But my all-time favorite .357 revolver is a model 66 Taurus with 6" barrel. I bought it used, so I don't know if a previous owner had it smoothed out, but it actually handles and shoots like a Python. Buttery smooth DA, and light SA. I wouldn't trade it for a new S&W 66. Total cost including shipping and FFL was $380. The Smiths were in the $500-600 range.

Just FYI.
 
Lots of food for thought here, and I appreciate it greatly. I think I figured out my problem. My LGS's have a bad selection of revolvers. I went looking yesterday, and not one Model 66, new or otherwise. Without having hands on "fondle" time it just makes it so much tougher. On the other hand, my bank acct is probably much happier that they don't have a lot of revolvers in stock!
 
I have a new 586-8. I bench rest all my loads and guns at 25-50yds. It shoots as good as any gun I've ever owned. How I wish it had a wide target hammer though.
I find myself coveting a new model 69. They seem a good bit less expensive than an older 29 or 629.
I have a bunch of 44 cast bullets stockpiled.
 
rcmodel,

The "thing" is part of the yoke and as I understand it, it replaces the gas ring. Per your request, here are two more pictures.
.
IMG_0891_zpsnr3zri7y.jpg
.
IMG_0888_zpsrroljrsb.jpg
.
Paul
 
The "thing" is part of the yoke and as I understand it, it replaces the gas ring
Click to expand...
Thank you!

I can see clearly now how they did it.

The flat cut that used to be on the bottom of the barrel is now on the top of the new yoke, minus any gas ring at all!!

Ingenious!!!

Thanks again.

rc
 
I would rather have the hand finishing- even the lesser quality of the Bangor-Punta days- than any modern forced-tolerance-fit S&W. The new 66 may be a great revolver. But it's not an original 66- which is quite stout for anything I would want out of it- and there's nothing the new 66 can do that a 686/586 couldn't do as well.
 
I'm happy they reintroduced the M66.
It might not be as finely fitted, and might have some features we collectively dislike. Yes you can buy an older one for similar money, but how long till those turn into safe queens due to rarity or price increases?
My first M19 (in great shape) cost me 350 about 7 years ago. My most recent one, 750.

Not much longer till it'll be a good idea to have a new one s a shooter and save the beating on the older, weaker ones that parts don't exist for already
 
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