Can anyone I.D. this Browning shotgun?

[Tim13]

I recently took possession of this shotgun. It's a Browning over under, but has no visible model number or name. It has a 5 digit serial number, containing only numbers, no hyphens or letters.

Here are some pictures:





















Thanks for any help you guys can give in identifying this SG.

Tim

Oh yeah. First guy who says it's a Browning over under gets a sharp stick in the eye....LOL.

 

[Rembrandt]

Superposed, basic Grade I field (hunting) version. Target models would have wider ribs later, but early 1950's used the same rib as hunting versions. Need to check the serial number....to know the year for sure. The markings on the right side of the barrel were first used from the mid-to-late fifties and later. Browning used an alpha-numeric serial numbering system beginning in 1962, this seems to indicate it could be one.

 

[Tim13]

The serial number makes it a 1952.

Is this one that you shouldn't use steel shot?

Based on what I've read, I don't think it has any real collector value. I'm itching to work on the stock scratches and refinish the wood. Any ideas on it's value?

Thanks for the I.D. help.

Tim

 

[yeti]

It's a Belgium made Browning over and under shotgun.

 

[natman]

It's a Superposed all right. I wouldn't refinish it, just go over the scratches with some Scott's Liquid Gold. Nice gun.

The Superposed has an unusual method of disassembly. On some models the latch does not pull straight out like most doubles and once loosened it does not come off, but slides forward.

http://www.midwestgunworks.com/field_service_manual/browning_superposed_field_service_manual.pdf

Once you get it forward there should be some stars on the barrels to indicate choke.

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_are_the_various_choke_markings_for_Browning_shotguns

 

[oneounceload]

A grade I Belgian Browning is worth about $1500 plus........those barrels are not steel-proofed. Those barrels are some of the finest barrels ever made as far as balance goes - don't screw them up with choke tubes or cutting. The forearm is attached to the barrels - you loosen the latch and the whole thing slides slightly forward and then off. Typical chokes were IC/M on the 26-1/2 " barrels and M/F on the 28". There were some variations in choke constrictions.

 

[rcmodel]

+ 1000!

No sandpaper, no screwing around with the finish, and most definately, no steel shot.

If it doesn't meet your needs, sell it and buy four or five Mossbergs with the money!

rc

 

[ElToro]

nice superposed.

i went to my great uncles memorial / wake last year and i knew he was pretty hardcore into ducks and upland hunting and his son, ( my dads age) had his superposed out among a bunch of other memorabilia items. it was well worn and the stock had no finish left but it still locked up tight. he hunted pheasants, ducks, turkey,doves evrything with that thing form the 40s probly through the late 70s im not aware of him owning anyother shotgun but im sure he was done hunting by the late 80s early 90s when steel shot became law. im sure it would provide his son or (hopefully nephew, me) decades of use.

anyway, nice gun you got there. hang on to it,

midwest gun works is the place for browning doubles.

 

[oneounceload]

There's a place called Art's Gun shop somewhere in Missouri - former Browning employees, they do most of the factory work for Browning - if you have questions, give them a call; otherwise, sell it to me!

Seriously, a great gun for pheasant and grouse, and almost equal to Perazzi for quality barrels as I previously mentioned - typically better than even most of the English and Spanish guns.....................

 

[ElToro]

i think midwest guin works also has many former browning employess as they are in St louis MO (pevely, just down teh road) as well

either way if your having work, there are shops that know what the heck the are doing with browing doubles

 

[Tim13]

Once again, a wealth of info here in the shotgun forum. It never ceases to amaze me how well versed you guys are when it comes to these firearms.

Right now, I have a 1975 Winchester 1400 that I use for my occasional trap shooting. I'm not that good at it, but the 1400 fits me well, and a round of 20 is typical for me. I must confess, I enjoy it when beat someone's $$$ over/under with my old $200 semi-auto waterfowl gun. I was excited to get this shotgun because I've always thought the o/u's looked cool, and thought it would be fun to use on the trap field. Now, knowing I'd have to spend $25 a box for every round, it's just not reasonable to use this gun for trap. It does have sentimental value, so I'll have to weigh that against selling it, and buying a nicer trap gun.

I'll not bring any sandpaper anywhere near it....LOL. At this point, I'm going to clean it up, and buy some appropriate ammo for it just to try it out. After that, I'll have to decide what it is I want to do with it. Knowing me, I'll end up keeping it, and just bringing it out to admire it from time to time.

As a side note, I found the manual online. The manual noted that new guns have a stiff lockup due to the tight fit of the parts, and that the gun will loosen over time, and become easier to close. Before I found this in the manual, I had noticed that the lockup was pretty stiff. I'm guessing this gun hasn't seen much use in the past 58 years. Go figure.


Tim

 

[oneounceload]

No reason to spend $25/box of ammo....basic trap loads are 1/4 the cost, it just isn't the BEST choice compared to a BT-99 or similar..........keep the gun for upland use - that is where it shines the best

 

[huntsman]

If it doesn't meet your needs, sell it and buy four or five Mossbergs with the money!

I might be willing to give three Mossbergs for it, even though It's old and beat up

 

[Tim13]

Last question.

Is there any reasonably priced ammunition that can be safely used in this gun? I'm a little slow on the uptake, so specific brands and such would be appreciated. After cleaning it up, I'd love to take it to the range and try it out.

Thanks again for all the great info. I love learning about a new to me firearm.

Tim

 

[oneounceload]

Any standard target or hunting ammo in 2-3/4" length that isn't steel will work just fine. Pattern the gun to see what chokes are there.

This chart, http://www.hallowellco.com/choke_chart.htm, shows the code marks Browning used - you should find them on the barrels

Good Luck

 

[ocharry]

Tim,,, just because that old gal still feels a little stiff does not mean it hasn't seen a few rounds,, they are made just that good and fit that well!!!

I have a Browning Citori that I bought new in 74-75,, it is a field grade gun,,and it has 3" chambers. I have hunted rabbit, turkey,quail,grouse,pheasant,fox,,,,,,I don't know how many thousand rounds went through it on the skeet range,,,or how many thousand rounds have been through it on the sporting clays field,, and some on the trap field too,, I have used it for just about everything you can think of if it is shot related,,, and if you hold the stock under your arm and just unlatch the barrels they will still to this day and all the rounds down range NOT fall open to the stop,,in fact about 1/2 way open

So the point is,, IF they are taken care of and the hinge pin is cleaned and greased,, or kept lubricated,,,they will last through several generations

You should keep this old gal,,just the way she is,,the blue wear and markes in the stock and forearm are her history,, you said it had sentimental value,,well take her out and enjoy it,,,it will handle any 2 3/4 lead shot load out there,,and when you are shooting this old gal and she is showing you her STUFF,,think of the person that had it or enjoyed it before you,,, that my friend is worth more than the dollar value of this old browning

You have acquired a fine old shot gun,,,,Shoot it,,,that's what JMB intended

that's my .02

ocharry