Can anyone ID this headstamp?
- Thread starter HeXeD775
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alsaqr
Member
Greek.
MutinousDoug
Member
Greek surplus as sold by CMP. Remove the crimp and use your CCI primers.
cerberus65
Member
- Joined
- May 12, 2008
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- 296
Correct.
Greek Powder & Cartridge Company, Athens, Greece
(according to cartridgecollectors.org)
Greek Powder & Cartridge Company, Athens, Greece
(according to cartridgecollectors.org)
HeXeD775
Member
SSN Vet
Member
the crimp can be swaged (a die type tool that reforms the pocket and presses out the crimp) or reamed (a cutter tool similar to a chamfer cutter, that cuts back the material all around the primer pocket shoulder).
Just log onto Midway USA and search primer crimp removal
Just log onto Midway USA and search primer crimp removal
Larry E
Member
You can remove the crimp with a case mouth chamfering tool. Stick the inside chamfering end of the tool into the primer pocket and give it a few turns. It works like a charm and it's easy. It also produces a nice bevel on the edge of the pocket which makes seating primers easier. Don't cut the chamfer too deep, just enough to remove the crimp. Who's cheap? 
Sunray
Member
"...cutter tool similar to a chamfer cutter..." Same tool. It's a bit slow and tedious, but it works. Good thing to do while watching TV.
Regular large rifle primers work just fine. Make sure they're seated properly though. Removing the crimp and cleaning the pocket is usually all you need to do.
Milsurp brass is a bit thicker than commercial brass, so you'll have to reduce the powder charge by 10% and work up.
"...for my 30.06 (Remington 760)?..." Yep. Full length resizing is required any time you use any brass in two rifles. M1's have a tendency to have the extracting brass whack the case mouths too. No big deal. The expander button will fix it. If the dent is too much for the expander button to fit into, needle nosed pliers will take enough of it out to allow the button to fit.
Regular large rifle primers work just fine. Make sure they're seated properly though. Removing the crimp and cleaning the pocket is usually all you need to do.
Milsurp brass is a bit thicker than commercial brass, so you'll have to reduce the powder charge by 10% and work up.
"...for my 30.06 (Remington 760)?..." Yep. Full length resizing is required any time you use any brass in two rifles. M1's have a tendency to have the extracting brass whack the case mouths too. No big deal. The expander button will fix it. If the dent is too much for the expander button to fit into, needle nosed pliers will take enough of it out to allow the button to fit.
HeXeD775
Member
PowderApe
Member
crimp
A crimp is placed around the primer to keep the primer "locked in" and not potentially vibrate out. They can also place some sealer over the crimp (yes, that red ring) rings are a lacquer ans can be any color but red, black or green seem most common. (The lacquer is also a weather-proofer and sometimes it's applied to the bullet/case mouth junction.)
You do have to remove the crimp on the primer pocket before you reprime or you'll destroy a bunch of new primers trying to jam them to seat.... ....and they may just "pop off' scaring the crap out of you!!
Swaging is the bet way but tedious cuz you use the press with a special swedging die.... it irons the brass crimp back into place under extreme ram pressure while the reamer type cuts it off. The reamer is a "no-brainer" operation and is easily done while watching the boob-tube or any other "no brainer" opportunity!
It only has to be done once per piece of brass and you wont have any primer seating problems later on....
most crimps surround the entire primer pocket and there are some that are merely "staked" in place with 3 or 4 little peen marks where it was peened over the primer base.....
A crimp is placed around the primer to keep the primer "locked in" and not potentially vibrate out. They can also place some sealer over the crimp (yes, that red ring) rings are a lacquer ans can be any color but red, black or green seem most common. (The lacquer is also a weather-proofer and sometimes it's applied to the bullet/case mouth junction.)
You do have to remove the crimp on the primer pocket before you reprime or you'll destroy a bunch of new primers trying to jam them to seat.... ....and they may just "pop off' scaring the crap out of you!!
Swaging is the bet way but tedious cuz you use the press with a special swedging die.... it irons the brass crimp back into place under extreme ram pressure while the reamer type cuts it off. The reamer is a "no-brainer" operation and is easily done while watching the boob-tube or any other "no brainer" opportunity!
It only has to be done once per piece of brass and you wont have any primer seating problems later on....
most crimps surround the entire primer pocket and there are some that are merely "staked" in place with 3 or 4 little peen marks where it was peened over the primer base.....
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