I have a winchester 94 30-30 with some rust and pitting on the receiver. I do not plan on refinishing it because it is a utility gun for me and usually rides along in the truck or atv. The gun still shoots fine but I was curious if I did not do anything could it damage the functionality of the rifle?
Can rust cause damage to a rifle?
- Thread starter ldlfh7
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dogtown tom
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Neo-Luddite
Member
Unless the rust is so advanced as to weaken the receiver it will probably be fine. Keep it oiled and keep an eye on it.
briansmithwins
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Does it count as refinishing if you strip it for cleaning, hit it with brake cleaner, and then Rustoleum?
If your current care regime was adequate you wouldn't have the rust, so it seems like you could try something different.
BSW
If your current care regime was adequate you wouldn't have the rust, so it seems like you could try something different.
BSW
Sam1911
Moderator Emeritus
Sure. As the rust spreads it will eventually begin to erode the wearing/mating surfaces of the internals of the gun (if it looks bad outside, you can only imagine what's going on INSIDE 
). That will make it hard to cycle and unreliable. It could even lead to making the hammer, sear, and trigger surfaces not meshing as they should and causing an unsafe condition (like firing when it really wasn't supposed to...)
If let go long enough it could even reduce the metal thickness of the receiver locking areas or barrel to the point that they can't hold the pressures and resist the forces they're supposed to.
So, yeah, keep your dang gun in good repair. It may be a "utility" weapon, but it isn't a hammer or screwdriver. It's a potentially lethal firearm and if you don't treat it with the proper care it could -- literally -- kill you.
). That will make it hard to cycle and unreliable. It could even lead to making the hammer, sear, and trigger surfaces not meshing as they should and causing an unsafe condition (like firing when it really wasn't supposed to...)If let go long enough it could even reduce the metal thickness of the receiver locking areas or barrel to the point that they can't hold the pressures and resist the forces they're supposed to.
So, yeah, keep your dang gun in good repair. It may be a "utility" weapon, but it isn't a hammer or screwdriver. It's a potentially lethal firearm and if you don't treat it with the proper care it could -- literally -- kill you.
BCRider
Member
Utility guns need lovin' too! ! ! ! ! It takes precious little time to wipe the gun down with a dry rag then run a lightly oiled rag over it to protect the metal. At least give it that much even if it lives it lives behind the seat of your truck.
Scrub off the rust you have already with some oil and 0000 steel wool to clean away the rust. Then if you don't want to oil the rifle on a semi regular basis.
Once a year or thereabouts it's worth removing the wood so you can clean and oil the hidden metal.
The idea isn't to keep it pretty if it's a utility gun. The idea is to correctly care for the rifle as you care for any other tool. Would you leave your hammer or power tools out where they get rained on and ruined? The rifle deserves at least the same care and maintenance.
Scrub off the rust you have already with some oil and 0000 steel wool to clean away the rust. Then if you don't want to oil the rifle on a semi regular basis.
Once a year or thereabouts it's worth removing the wood so you can clean and oil the hidden metal.
The idea isn't to keep it pretty if it's a utility gun. The idea is to correctly care for the rifle as you care for any other tool. Would you leave your hammer or power tools out where they get rained on and ruined? The rifle deserves at least the same care and maintenance.
sage5907
Member
If you're smart you'll change the batteries in your fire smoke detectors twice a year. I change mine in the spring and in the fall. That's a good reminder to clean your utility rifle. If it's showing rust I would wipe the metal gently with 000 or 0000 steel wool and then oil it lightly with Hoppe's gun oil. I say something like Hoppe's because some of the light oil won't stay on very long. That's also a good time to wipe the bore with solvent, then several passes with a brass brush, clean patches and finally a lightly oiled patch.
DM~
Member
+1
I have guns with pitting on them, kept oiled ,they haven't gotten any worse even with many years of use!
DM
A little external rust or pitting will not hurt the functionality of the gun in any way. I have several old guns that have varying amounts of rust and all of them are fine shooters. Some of these guns are well over 100 years old and have had rust for a good portion of their lives but they still are dependable. I keep them wiped down every couple of months even if they just sit in the safe. I have done some very light sanding on a few of them.
Unless you just need a pretty gun I think keeping it clean and wiped down on occasion will be fine for a "utility" gun. Or you can spend a lot of time stripping it down to the metal and refinishing it.
Unless you just need a pretty gun I think keeping it clean and wiped down on occasion will be fine for a "utility" gun. Or you can spend a lot of time stripping it down to the metal and refinishing it.
It should not be automatically assumed that the presence of a pitted frame means the owner's neglecting the gun.
Typically, rust & pitting on a '94 means it's a gun made between 1964 and APPROXIMATELY 1982, with a cast frame.
Those frames were plated with iron which was then blued, because the frame steel composition would not accept conventional bluing.
Over the years, it's been quite common for the frames to rust through the finish & develop external pitting.
Polishing off the rust runs the risk of also polishing off more of the finish, leading to more rust, depending on how you go about it.
I've seen 'em.
Fairly expensive to re-finish (normally, trying to just re-blue doesn't work well).
You can paint it, or just keep wiping it down with oil regularly.
It'll most likely continue to rust unless you apply some sort of coating to seal it.
What you see on the outside won't progress to the point of affecting function, what you don't see on the inside COULD.
Usually, normal maintenance will prevent rust from developing on the surfaces of internal action parts, barring neglect or mis-treatment by previous owners.
Pitting on the OUTSIDE of one of those frames does not necessarily mean the guts are rusting, too.
You COULD be developing rust on the internal surfaces of the frame that MIGHT eventually interfere with the interactions of those parts that move against those frame surfaces.
If you do break it down for serious internal inspection & cleaning, DO NOT REMOVE THE CARTRIDGE GUIDES!
Denis
Typically, rust & pitting on a '94 means it's a gun made between 1964 and APPROXIMATELY 1982, with a cast frame.
Those frames were plated with iron which was then blued, because the frame steel composition would not accept conventional bluing.
Over the years, it's been quite common for the frames to rust through the finish & develop external pitting.
Polishing off the rust runs the risk of also polishing off more of the finish, leading to more rust, depending on how you go about it.
I've seen 'em.
Fairly expensive to re-finish (normally, trying to just re-blue doesn't work well).
You can paint it, or just keep wiping it down with oil regularly.
It'll most likely continue to rust unless you apply some sort of coating to seal it.
What you see on the outside won't progress to the point of affecting function, what you don't see on the inside COULD.
Usually, normal maintenance will prevent rust from developing on the surfaces of internal action parts, barring neglect or mis-treatment by previous owners.
Pitting on the OUTSIDE of one of those frames does not necessarily mean the guts are rusting, too.
You COULD be developing rust on the internal surfaces of the frame that MIGHT eventually interfere with the interactions of those parts that move against those frame surfaces.
If you do break it down for serious internal inspection & cleaning, DO NOT REMOVE THE CARTRIDGE GUIDES!
Denis
Reloadron
Contributing Member
Rust will cause damage to any rifle. The question becomes is the rust cosmetic as it sounds in this case or is the rust will it can have a serious effect on the form, fit and function of the inner parts of the rifle. Rust on exterior surface, not a big deal, rust in a barrel, can be a big deal.
For surface minor rust just use some WD40 (or other oil) combined with 0000 steel wool and elbow grease. Then just maintain the gun. Since it's a beater truck rifle all you care about is making sure the rifle is functionable and dependable.
Ron
dprice3844444
member
clean it good find a small bottle of rust converting liquid and dab the spots.
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Most of the external surface rust on the cast frames comes from being handled.
The finish doesn't react well with skin.
If the insides are good, keep the outside oiled & that's about the best you can do short of some sort of re-finish/coating.
Denis
The finish doesn't react well with skin.
If the insides are good, keep the outside oiled & that's about the best you can do short of some sort of re-finish/coating.
Denis
aarondhgraham
Member
It's your rifle,,,
It's your rifle,,,
Clean the rust off or not.
It's just that I can't see any reason to leave it there.
Like the man said: Truck guns need love too.
Aarond
.
It's your rifle,,,
Clean the rust off or not.
It's just that I can't see any reason to leave it there.
Like the man said: Truck guns need love too.
Aarond
.
Reloadron
Contributing Member
So it's purely cosmetic. Remove the rust as best you can, clean the gun and properly maintain the gun. If you expect a gun, any gun, even a beater truck gun to properly function you maintain it.
Eventually if you continue to neglect the gun the answer is yes. Pretty open question there. If you neglect your truck or RV long enough ignoring cosmetic damage what will happen eventually?
Ron
Eventually, but it will take a long time. Hit it with a bit of steel wool, keep it oiled lightly and try to not let it get any worse.
He never said he wasn't going to clean it, just not refinish it. No reason to refinsh. Lots of well worn guns out there with lots of bluing gone and keeping the surface rust at bay takes a little effort. They still work just fine.
jmorris
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- Sep 30, 2005
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I have a 30-30 that was stored improperly and rusted on the outside (where it was handled) but everything on the inside of the action and barrel is perfect.
From the looks of the insides and wood, you would think it was new. I need an extra "loaner" at the time and bought it. Maybe the best $150 I spent on a hunting rifle I never used to hunt with. Made the day for a few folks over the years and I didn't have to worry about cosmetic damage to it.
However, rust can eventually eliminate and entire gun sooner or later. So damage can certainly occur.
From the looks of the insides and wood, you would think it was new. I need an extra "loaner" at the time and bought it. Maybe the best $150 I spent on a hunting rifle I never used to hunt with. Made the day for a few folks over the years and I didn't have to worry about cosmetic damage to it.
However, rust can eventually eliminate and entire gun sooner or later. So damage can certainly occur.
Utility guns carried and stored in vehicles are subject to temperature swings, and that is when moisture will condense on them. Blued steel and treated cast iron are the worst. Parkerizing helps, but when handled a lot in a harsh environment, you still fight rust. Entirely why the M16 was considered to be so revolutionary - compared to an M14 that rusted like a bucket turned up to catch the rain. The rack grade Garands left to be sold by the CMP are a specific example of wood and steel guns that saw a lot of outdoor use. They aren't pretty.
If a traditional firearm is your choice, it will rust if left in a vehicle, so maintenance will need to be tripled up to prevent corrosion. I have an Oct 64 Win 94 that suffered it before I owned it, then was stored in a case in a humid basement for just one year, which doubled the rust on it and worsened the finish a lot. It was standing right next to a stainless composite Rem 700 in it's case, which didn't show any damage at all.
If you choose steel or iron, it's going to rust.
If a traditional firearm is your choice, it will rust if left in a vehicle, so maintenance will need to be tripled up to prevent corrosion. I have an Oct 64 Win 94 that suffered it before I owned it, then was stored in a case in a humid basement for just one year, which doubled the rust on it and worsened the finish a lot. It was standing right next to a stainless composite Rem 700 in it's case, which didn't show any damage at all.
If you choose steel or iron, it's going to rust.
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