Can you mountain-gun-ize an N-frame?

[MatthewVanitas]

Greetings. I was wondering if it's even remotely affordable to have some of the excess steel cut off of a full-underlugged N-frame. Everyone on the board seems to have outstanding things to say about the 610, but there's a whole ton o' metal on those things. Full underlug, unfluted cylinder, etc. Opposite end of the spectrum: the N-frame mountain-gun models (or 1917s) feel much better in the hand. Is having some of the excess steel ground away feasible, or does the cost far outweigh the benefit?

 

[P95Carry]

I'd say cost outweighs any benefit .. cos you could better spend money on a gun more to your liking I'd think.

Plus ... for me .... weight is useful ...... I used to use a 686 for compo's years back .. I even made an add on weight which slid over lug and locked on ... made it very heavy but accuracy and aim recovery benefitted .... it reduced my POI by 6 full inches at 25 yds .... 6" lower that is ....

For heavier loads I like weight ..

Spend on another gun!!

 

[MatthewVanitas]

Part of the problem is that there isn't any similar firearm that's any trimmer. The only folks who build 10mm revolvers are Ruger and S&W, and only S&W makes DA revos. Best of my knowledge, all 4" 610s are full-underlugged, and most are unfluted. Or am I overlooking some other option?

The 610 just seems such an exceptional piece for the convenience of moonclips, the affordability of .40 S&W, the power of 10mm, and the potential for rechambering to 10mm Mag, which allegedly puts it in the ranks of the .41 Mag. It's just that they build N-frames so heavy these days...

 

[P95Carry]

Hmmm ... ''trimmer'' ...... guess that may be a prob. I'm not a huge fan of half moons and also ... I'd say ''N'' frame is actually about perfect for weight etc .. for me. It is after all S&W's largest revo frame and is built for strength.

Here is my M27-2 with 5" tube . I'd sure not want to lose any metal from this!!! (Blueing BTW is near perfect but finger marks and lighting make it look other than what it is!! )

Anyways .. I still don't think what might be a huge bill would be worth it to remove metal as you describe!

 

[Old Fuff]

This seems like a lot of trouble, but you could:

Order a "in the white" .38/44 barrel from Numrich Gun Parts Co. (www.e-gunparts.com). These are semi-finished, 6 inches long and cost under $25.00 The outside configuration is the same as a mountain gun.

The barrel could be shortened to any length you want and the front sight remounted.

Then bored and rifled to 10mm and finished in matt-chrome to match the stainless gun.

I too prefer the regular rather then full underlug on any gun I'm going to carry around unless the barrel is 4 inches or less.

 

[VictorLouis]

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=22237

 

[Old Fuff]

Someone is offering a .44 Mountain Gun barrel on www.gunbroker.com for $80.00 (opening bid). I suppose it could be lined to 10mm. Again a possible, but probably expensive possibility. I don't think you are going to find an easy (read that inexpensive) way to get what you want. Frankly, I'd look for a model 27 or 28 with a 4" barrel and shoot .357 Magnums.