Cant believe the rust\damage on this Ruger LC9

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There is nothing wrong with Ruger as a company. There is nothing wrong with this gun in particular. A blue finish, is the least durable finish. Anyone's blue finish is. If you buy anyone's blued finish gun this is simply normal wear if you actually use the thing. Nothing at all wrong with that, but is a major reason why SS and other firearm coatings are quite popular today.
 
There is nothing surprising about it.

Blued finish is a joke when it comes to rust protection. I roll my eyes every time someone say "Bluing is enough for civilian....blah blah..."

It's not better than nothing. It practically is equal to nothing finish. Only thing it is good for is someone to go "Oooo Ahhhh the deep gloss."

Solution is simple: Don't buy a blued gun unless you get a kick out of stroking your gun on at least a daily basis, unless it is a safe queen.
 
Everyone has a different acidity level on their body. I have seen example of guns rusting from contact to the person. I would also suggest hard chroming in lieu of bluing.
 
It is your skin. Some people (quite a few actually) have low ph levels on their skin. When moisture from sweat releases from skin pores it becomes pretty corrosive. My best friend can rust a stainless gun in a day. In the music industry it is quite common and referred to as "piss finger" because some people rust chords so easily. On the bright side you are far better equipped to fight off skin infections and fungal infections than people with higher ph levels. It would be difficult for even nasty staph infections to set up. It is like a human shield. As far as guns you need to do more than wipe them down. You can get one of the products mentioned earlier or just do what my friend does. He wipes down with wd 40 to clean gun surface and then a light wipe of oil of some kind. He does this before storage, and anytime he handles a gun. He hasn't rusted one since. You can get strips to test your ph level if you don't think that is why you are getting rust. Some gun finishes like Glock seem to be very corrosive resistant.
 
Had oxidation problems with LCP. Blackened carbon slide Ruger pistols rust like bucket of old nails. I replaced LCP with R9 and the problem went away.
 
I would buy quality carry gun composed of parts that do not oxidize. It is much better than putting chemicals on surface to inhibit rust. The S&W 940 held up well. The only oxidation occurred on screw holding rubber grip to the gun.
 
Ruger is an obsolete firearms company now. Their QC and materials quality is non-existent now.

I imagine this being delivered in a "Mammy Yokum" voice (You kids can look her up).

"I HAS SPOKEN!"

To the OP.
Wipe the gun off with an oily rag more often. This ain't rocket science.
 
I would buy quality carry gun composed of parts that do not oxidize. It is much better than putting chemicals on surface to inhibit rust. The S&W 940 held up well. The only oxidation occurred on screw holding rubber grip to the gun.

You're missing the point...ALL the metals, including stainless steel, oxidize. However, the type of oxidation and the amount of oxidation vary from alloy to alloy.

But you are very correct in that buying a quality gun that best suits one's needs very much includes what it's made of and how it's treated to minimize corrosion.
 
If your skin is acidic stainless won't make much of a difference. You just have to take a little extra care of the gun. I've seen a ton of Browning Hi Powers that look immaculate except for the rear cocking serrations and under the grips.
 
So the truth is, any gun made of metal can rust if abused. No matter how much it cost or what brand it is.

Yes. Stainless is far less susceptable to corrosion than carbon steel, of course. But if you don't take care of a stainless gun, you will eventually see tiny speckles appear.

And there are several varieties of stainless steel, as well. I don't know what all the particular alloys are that are used in the various guns, but each has their own particular physical and chemical properties.

Most frames and slides are probably a 300-series alloy of some kind. My AMT Automag II, however, was designed by Harry Sanford and uses mostly 17-4 PH (precipatation hardened) stainless (including the barrel).

Quality stainless will require relatively less maintenance for corrosion purposes than carbond steel. However, the sacrifice made for this is hardness...very few stainless steels can be hardened to anything approaching carbon steel and are thus more susceptable to galling between moving parts, like frame and slide. So lubrication becomes relatively more important.
 
Look up all he issues ruger has now. I've seen first hand so many examples of poor firearms produced by that company it's staggering.

Think what you will. Carry what you will. Pray the rust isn't in places where it may actually matter when you need it most.

Now, carry on and pretend I was never here

Poppycock! Welcome to the internet folks where people can make allegations without providing anything in the way of empiricle evidence to support their innane, bizzare opinions. And I'm doing my best to "pretend you were never there", Scrubber3, as per your wishes.

To the op: I always wipe down a firearm with an oily cloth after handling it, no matter how briefly, and would never store it in a holster, no matter the brand.
 
Allrighty. I think the question has been answered and enough has been said about Ruger. I think we can stick a fork in this one as I just don't see where there is really anything left to say!
 
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