CMV
Member
They say you "don't have to use" case lube with them. Does that mean you "should not use" lube either or is there is a benefit to using case lube with carbide dies & straight pistol cases?
Carbide pistol dies & lube
- Thread starter CMV
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Just means you don't have to use lube.
I've found a bit of case lube helps greatly reduce the effort in sizing difficult cases like large pistol calibers. Really onlly need to ad a small amount of lube to every 3rd or 4th case.
Try it out, you certainly will not hurt anything by using lube.
I've found a bit of case lube helps greatly reduce the effort in sizing difficult cases like large pistol calibers. Really onlly need to ad a small amount of lube to every 3rd or 4th case.
Try it out, you certainly will not hurt anything by using lube.
777TRUTH
Member
On rifle ALWAYS use case lube.
For pistol you do not have to lube cases with carbide but it makes sizing so much easier.
On my progressive I lube everything. Makes the process so much smoother and enjoyable.
For pistol you do not have to lube cases with carbide but it makes sizing so much easier.
On my progressive I lube everything. Makes the process so much smoother and enjoyable.
Steel dies, rifle or handgun, require the use of case lubricant.
Carbide straight walled handgun dies, both parallel and tapered cases, lubricant is optional. Lots of folks do not use lubricant to avoid the mess, lots of folks do use lubricant to make the resizing task easier.
Carbide 30 Carbine dies, the manufacturers recommend the use of lubricant.
Carbide rifle dies, which are few and far between, lubricant is required. The carbide dies are for high volume loaders that would wear out steel dies quickly.
There are probably some other exceptions.
Carbide straight walled handgun dies, both parallel and tapered cases, lubricant is optional. Lots of folks do not use lubricant to avoid the mess, lots of folks do use lubricant to make the resizing task easier.
Carbide 30 Carbine dies, the manufacturers recommend the use of lubricant.
Carbide rifle dies, which are few and far between, lubricant is required. The carbide dies are for high volume loaders that would wear out steel dies quickly.
There are probably some other exceptions.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
I use a light spritz of spray lube on everything.
It makes sizing effortless with carbide dies.
rc
It makes sizing effortless with carbide dies.
rc
springer99
Member
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- Feb 3, 2007
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- 416
"Be careful if you lube pistol cases for carbide dies. It makes sizing so easy you'll throw your arm out of its socket expecting some resistance.
Seriously."
+1 on this. Actually I try to lube about 1 in every 5 or 10 straight-walled cases and find that's more than enough.
Seriously."
+1 on this. Actually I try to lube about 1 in every 5 or 10 straight-walled cases and find that's more than enough.
OP
OP
CMV
Member
Worked very well. Only did 30. Didn't do a test one w/o lube to see if there was any difference, but it really felt like the sizing die was doing nothing. Maybe a little pressure to pop the primer out, but after just doing tons of military .223 brass, if felt like much easier on .45 ACP cases.
Thanks guys.
Now I have a case trimmer problem. Using the Lee trimmer. Had the chuck/drill adapter already so just switched out the pin & case holder for .45. No matter how I seat them, they wobble. Some just a tiny little bit, others very noticeable. the .223 cases didn't do this - maybe a few, but not all of them. Also, I screwed the .45 pin into the cutter body as tightly as I could without going crazy and stripping threads. It trims to .890 & I'm trying for .888.
You guys told me not to worry about chasing a thou or two on .223 cases but since these are so much shorter, do I need to worry about that last 2 thou? A few cases didn't need trimming and were at .888 so I have .888 - .8905. Is that too much variation to get consistent data for working up the load?
I could lightly grind the guide pin on the trimmer to take of 2 thou but I'm thinking maybe something else I should do before making a permanent mod to it. I don't think it's the cutter body itself because with the .223 pin it cut to 1.750 & I could have tightened it a hair to get another thou probably.
Thanks guys.
Now I have a case trimmer problem. Using the Lee trimmer. Had the chuck/drill adapter already so just switched out the pin & case holder for .45. No matter how I seat them, they wobble. Some just a tiny little bit, others very noticeable. the .223 cases didn't do this - maybe a few, but not all of them. Also, I screwed the .45 pin into the cutter body as tightly as I could without going crazy and stripping threads. It trims to .890 & I'm trying for .888.
You guys told me not to worry about chasing a thou or two on .223 cases but since these are so much shorter, do I need to worry about that last 2 thou? A few cases didn't need trimming and were at .888 so I have .888 - .8905. Is that too much variation to get consistent data for working up the load?
I could lightly grind the guide pin on the trimmer to take of 2 thou but I'm thinking maybe something else I should do before making a permanent mod to it. I don't think it's the cutter body itself because with the .223 pin it cut to 1.750 & I could have tightened it a hair to get another thou probably.
jcwit
member
I give my pistol brass a quick spritz with spry teflon lub, it dry and creats no mess, brand I use is Blaster simply because Menards had it on sale for free.
Its not needed as the others have said but it does make life easier, which is good.
Its not needed as the others have said but it does make life easier, which is good.
Blue68f100
Member
Don't waste your time trimming pistol ammo. To fact in all of my years (35+) of reloading I have Never trimmed pistol brass. Some do their magnum calibers but I never have.
atblis
Member
I've done that to a couple lee trimmer pilots. Even though it's permanent, we're talking about a $5 part. I don't know if it will ever cause a wear issue as it may remove any surface hardening on the tip, but...$5 part. No problems yet.
1SOW
Member
I've never trimmed 9mm Luger pistol brass.
If you are at a level of shooting pistols where a two or three thousandths change in seating depth affects your one-hole group, then it might have a VERY small effect.
Straight-wall pistol cases seat on the case mouth. I haven't seen or heard of any pistol cases that are too long to prevent slide closure . It is possible to have a case that is too short, so the case floats between being seated and contact with the slide. Rarely, this might cause a failure to fire.
Unless you're a top competitor, trimming pistol cases is a waste of time and effort.
JMO
I do use use one VERY light spray (using a plant mister spray bottle) for 50 9mm cases using water soluable wax case lube diluted 50+ to 1 in alcohol. Lees sizing lube. It does decrease handle pull force significantly in my carbide dies.
If you are at a level of shooting pistols where a two or three thousandths change in seating depth affects your one-hole group, then it might have a VERY small effect.
Straight-wall pistol cases seat on the case mouth. I haven't seen or heard of any pistol cases that are too long to prevent slide closure . It is possible to have a case that is too short, so the case floats between being seated and contact with the slide. Rarely, this might cause a failure to fire.
Unless you're a top competitor, trimming pistol cases is a waste of time and effort.
JMO
I do use use one VERY light spray (using a plant mister spray bottle) for 50 9mm cases using water soluable wax case lube diluted 50+ to 1 in alcohol. Lees sizing lube. It does decrease handle pull force significantly in my carbide dies.
Last edited:
springer99
Member
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2007
- Messages
- 416
Here's another vote for not bothering to trim pistol brass.
If you're REALLY GOOD at the bullseye game and want to be fussy, sort your loaded rounds by headstamp. This will make a small difference when firing in a match. Otherwise, not needed IMO.
If you're REALLY GOOD at the bullseye game and want to be fussy, sort your loaded rounds by headstamp. This will make a small difference when firing in a match. Otherwise, not needed IMO.
mbopp
Member
45 ACP I don't lube. For 357 Mag cases I lightly rub my fingers over some Mink Oil leather dressing then roll the cases with my fingers before I size them. I can do 10-12 cases before I need another touch of Mink Oil.
I trim 357 cases to the length of the shortest one for a consistent crimp. 45 ACP's don't get trimmed.
I trim 357 cases to the length of the shortest one for a consistent crimp. 45 ACP's don't get trimmed.
gamestalker
member
Back when carbide pistol dies were introduced I jumped for joy, no more lubing pistol brass! I've heard of some using lube with them, but they were intended to eliminate the need for lube while extending the life of dies, and resize smooth as silk without lube.
dickttx
Member
I have absolutely no problem resizing .357, .41, .45 ACP, or .45 Colt. But 9mm can be rather difficult sometimes. I puff a little graphite on the benchtop near the press and roll about one in six thru it. Works real easy then.
FROGO207
Member
I do not lube carbide dies in most cases. With the 30 Carbine and 500 S&W however I will lube them as it greatly reduces the effort required to size those suckers.
I will note however that I will ALWAYS run my brass for 10-15 minutes in walnut media before sizing them to remove any grit or dirt to keep from damaging any of the dies even though this is not supposed to happen with carbide.
I will note however that I will ALWAYS run my brass for 10-15 minutes in walnut media before sizing them to remove any grit or dirt to keep from damaging any of the dies even though this is not supposed to happen with carbide.
Blue68f100
Member
I bought a set of Hornady TiNi dies for 357Mag. I had been using RCBS since the 70's. The TiNi finish Hornady uses reduced the sizing effort by 50% on my Ni Brass. I was so Impressed I replace all of my Lee and RCBS pistol dies with Hornady. Hornady also use a large radius on the TiNi insert which makes it center easier if your using a AP press. I never lube pistol brass.
Hondo 60
Member
There are some here that will wail like a 9yr old girl about not lubing handgun cases.
But I've found that some cases, like 357 mag, are 50% or more, easier to size when lubed (just a touch).
I don't lube most handgun cases, but even though you don't have to,
does it make sense to fight the press????
But I've found that some cases, like 357 mag, are 50% or more, easier to size when lubed (just a touch).
I don't lube most handgun cases, but even though you don't have to,
does it make sense to fight the press????
gamestalker
member
No doubt lube would make the job a little easier. But I just hate lubing brass and will never lube another straight walled case for as long as I live. Carbide pistol dies are the best invention since the wheel to me. I hate lube, I hate it, hate it, hate it!
OK, I'm fine now.
OK, I'm fine now.
jcwit
member
Try some spray teflon, it a dry lube thats not messy at all. Just a tip.
Kevin Rohrer
Member
If You Get Sand Kicked In Your Face At The Beach, You Need To Use Lube
Unless you have threads for arms, re-sizing straight-wall pistol cases are effortless w/ or w/o lube in Carbide or Titanium Nitride dies.
No lube means faster, easier reloading.
Unless you have threads for arms
, re-sizing straight-wall pistol cases are effortless w/ or w/o lube in Carbide or Titanium Nitride dies. No lube means faster, easier reloading.
Kingcreek
Member
I load pistol on a progressive with carbide dies and I can load without lube if I want to. but I have found its the only good way to use up that One Shot pseudo-lube stuff.
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