Carbine length free float

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Big20

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I need a recommendation for a decent free float forearm tube for my M&P carbine. I don't need a bunch of rail space and it needs to be INEXPENSIVE but not junk. Also, how about one that can be installed without removing the front sight.
 
Pretty sure most free float tubes replace the barrel nut as part of their mounting system. To do any of them will involve removing your front sight post if it's an integrated sight/gas block, since the nut slides off the muzzle end.
 
Check to see if they are tapered and drive them out the proper direction if you do. It isn't hard though.
 
Look for a Vltor CASV-EL. It replaces the fore arm with a free floating one, and it attaches to the pic rail on top of the reciever. Otherwise, the barrel delta nut has to be removed to free float the barrel. I have used the DPMS aluminum rifle length forearm on both my 3 gun .223 AR carbine and my 6.8SPC carbine length barreled hunting rifle.

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CASV-EL

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I think the Daniel Defense Omega is the best choice for what you're looking for. You can easily pay $150 for a non-FF handguard. You should be able to grab a lightly used DD Omega for $175 thereabouts. It's also lighter and better designed than those non-FF handguards.

Been there, done that. I run longer handguards these days, and Daniel Defense is never a bad answer to an AR question.
 
HOOfan, I was trying to keep with the OP's desire for something functional but not expensive (his word was INEXPENSIVE). I know the DPMS handguards are less than $100.
 
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Typically "and it needs to be INEXPENSIVE but not junk" and "free floating" don't always fit very well in the same sentence.

I have the DD Omega 7 on my M&P15. Aside from removing the factory handguard, nothing else on the rifle needs to be touched. (one of the reasons I bought it) It survived a fair amount of use during a 4 day carbine course where I was routinely using the GripPod a lot....dropping to prone at 100 and 200 yds under time pressure. Low quality free floaters can show there true colors in those conditions.

ddomega7-9.jpg
 
Midwest Industries may be what you are looking for.

Also look at the Centurion C4.

You still may want to tap out the taper pins in the FSB just so that you can slide it forward to get easier access to the handguard cap (for complete removal)
 
I like my Centurion C4. Rock solid.

I had a Daniel Defense Omega 7. It was a very good forend as well. I wish i had not sold it.

Midwest Industries stuff is very good.
 
I put a Midwest Industries FF tube on my 9MM AR and am very happy with it. Not cheap, but not real pricey either. Seems quite sturdy.
 
I figured putting "inexpensive" and "not junk" in one question would whittle down the choices to "best value" and it did. This is a learning experience (AR modifications) so thanks for the info.
 
Something I would be thinking about real hard if I were putting together a carbine right now. . .

DD Omega carbine handguard - $270

Magpul MOE handguard - $30
Mount-n-slot light mount for MOE - $60
QD sling socket installed - $26
Surefire G2L - $55
$100 in your pocket for whatever else you want - $100

A non-free floated carbine will still put the lights out at 300m all day long. If you know you have a need for a floated handguard then by all means go for it. But if you just want one because they're the hotness and you need to have it . . . well, you can get better value for your money, I think.
 
Something I would be thinking about real hard if I were putting together a carbine right now. . .

DD Omega carbine handguard - $270

Magpul MOE handguard - $30
Mount-n-slot light mount for MOE - $60
QD sling socket installed - $26
Surefire G2L - $55
$100 in your pocket for whatever else you want - $100

A non-free floated carbine will still put the lights out at 300m all day long. If you know you have a need for a floated handguard then by all means go for it. But if you just want one because they're the hotness and you need to have it . . . well, you can get better value for your money, I think.

If you ever use a sling as a shooting aid, you can shift POI enough to miss that target at 300m.

Or if you ever brace the handguard, or something attached to the handguard, against a barrier/barricade as a support.

In other words, many real world shooting situations/implementations benefit from a free floating rail.

Even if you cheat and use a bipod, you're going to want a free floated rail to attach it with.



As covered in this thread, you can definitely get a free floated rail for less than what a DD costs.


It is of course up to each individual to deterimine whether a free floated rail is worth the expense.

I currently have two AR's. One has a Centurion C4, the other has a Magpul MOE handguard. They each have their place.
 
If you ever use a sling as a shooting aid, you can shift POI enough to miss that target at 300m.

Or if you ever brace the handguard, or something attached to the handguard, against a barrier/barricade as a support.

In other words, many real world shooting situations/implementations benefit from a free floating rail.

Even if you cheat and use a bipod, you're going to want a free floated rail to attach it with.

I won't argue that the benefits of free floated handguards are real. They are. One of my AR-15s wears one. But, I think a lot of people (newbies especially) are led to believe that free floated handguards are a must if you want to reach out and touch something and that just isn't the case. Do they help? Sure. But they aren't required. I guess I have shot enough perfect scores on M4 qualifications to believe in the capabilities of the rifle without a floated handguard.

When I see somebody with a low post count admit that they are learning, I feel obligated to give a dissenting opinion. Big20 has got lots of great recommendations for free float rails if that's what he's really after. But I see a lot of guys get the expensive and heavy rail, and still have to put a light on it, and sometimes a sling socket, and when you're dealing with picatinny rails all of that stuff is expensive and heavy. I'm just trying to show him that you can achieve the same end state (minus free floated) for a lot less money and weight.

I have bought a lot of crap for AR-15s that after some experience and education I wish I had just saved my money. I'm not trying to derail the thread. Just trying to provide some food for though for the OP.
 
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