Case gage question

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The simple answer is yes.
You place the complete round in the gage, make sure that the base is flush (the headspace is okay, or at least should be) and that the bullet does not stick out the other end (the maximum OAL has not been exceeded). At least that is my understanding.
Quick, handy, and could be a lifesaver. All of that for a couple of bucks.
 
I put the loaded cartridge into the case gage, place the case gage on the table - if it sticks out, the round is too long. If it doesn't go in, there is some other problem.

BTW - Dillon makes a stainless version of the case gage for selected cartridges - I prefer them to the Wilson.
 
I keep them on hand for all my calibers--and I use them primarily as I start up a reloading run. The comments above are correct; if the cartridge 'seats' fully on its own, you are just about guaranteed it will chamber cleanly, no matter what firearm you own.

As you use it more, you can start to "read" your cartridges and your dies better. Some of my rounds just g-l-i-d-e in slowly, they are that close to max spec. Others fall in; some almost want to hang up the last 1/16" or so, which helps identify belled cases without a caliper--that sort of thing.

The LOA consideration is a bit more complicated. For semiautos, it does almost guarantee that your rounds will fit the standard magazine. However, it doesn't account for special tweaking of rounds--like getting the (single-shot) rifle bullet into the leade (typically bolt-action, but not always)

Since I load pistol fodder, it works great, and it saves us from the inconvenience of having the pistol barrel handy to check fit. Typically, I do NOT use it on every cartridge--once I get the dies setup, I just intermittently check loaded rounds to see if anything is changing.

Jim H.
 
Great to own, especially if you shoot a Glock with reloads. I check my rounds while watching television. It's rare for me to find a pistol round that's oversized; but, I usually toss my pistol brass somewhere between the 12th and 15th reload. It's more common to find one that won't fit into the gauge.

I, also, favor Dillon over Wilson. (The Dillon is very well-made; the gauge is a little tighter; and, consequently, a little more accurate. It matches up to my Bar-Sto chambers better.)
 
that's the way it works, but note that it depends on where the cartridge headspaces. for instance, the gauge for 223rem covers the case itself, and not the entire cartridge. i.e. the bullet sticks out the front completely. it doesn't measure OAL.
 
How do I use that? Do I simply put the cartridge after I loaded it into the case gage and if it is ok, it will fit in?

As pointed out by taliv, the one you linked to is ONLY a case gauge. It is for the brass casing only. It will tell you the trim length is ok, and that it's sized so that it will likely chamber. If used on a completely loaded round, it again will tell you it will fit in just about any chamber.

If you get a case gauge for bottle necked ammo, it will tell you if the sizer die is set up to specks. The step cuts on the back identify if the headspace is too short, just right, or too long. The front of the gauge shows the trim length is good, IF the shoulder is right.

Frankfort arsenal USED TO make a CARTRIDGE gauge for most popular chamberings. They quit making them!:mad: I wish somebody would pick up where they left off!. They did the case as well as standard OverAll Length for a loaded round, all in one tool. I got one in .223 that tells me the OAL is right so the shells will work through an AR mag. It also is a quick check that the sizer is set up right, the head of the brass is half way between too low and too high.
 
For some purposes these are really great.

For precision loading there are other alternatives. The one I like best for bottleneck cases is the RCBS Precision Mic. Helps when adjusting dies for shoulder setback for a specific rifle.

YMMV.

I like the Dillon version very much, and it *can* be used, but it doesn't seem as precise as the RCBS Precision Mic.
 
Some just use the barrel (I did), but the round may pass this test then be clocked differently when actually loaded into the barrel and snag on the hood (it happens). The case gage covers the entire case and gives you assurance your round will fit. The only area it can’t check is the rim/extractor grove, but unless you have a casepro sizing machine you are not resizing this part anyway. As above bottle neck cartages have “stepped” case gages as you can size them too much and when compared to straight walled cases do need to be trimmed much more often. A damaged rim (from the extractor/ejector, center left photo1) seems to be the most common reason a round fails the case gage test. If you insert it into the gage backwards and rotate, more often than not, it will now drop into and fall freely from the case gage (only use that procedure if your gage is made from steel). Also, times do exist for the bullet to extend over maximum OAL, for reasons of function (long loaded 40, center right photo1) or reduced pressure (dependent on leade). Leade, throat, or freebore is the section of area between the end of the chamber and the beginning of the rifling and is different from gun to gun. It is that difference and the different ogives of individual bullets that you really can’t say “x” is the best OAL for “Y” round. http://www.dillonhelp.com/xl650english2/pg28.htm is a good step by step.
 

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