case gage

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Mt Shooter

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I just bought a case gage to check my loads. Every once and a while there is one that wont fire. The primer is untouched, just seems like it wont go into battery, I am talking maybe one in a thousand. So it seem like a good idea to get a case gage and drop the rounds I was taking to the match on Saturday in it. Twenty out of 200 did pass with this thing (its a L. E. Wilson) I set them aside and plan on taking the to the range for the next practice session. I am wondering if the gage has higher tolerances than my Kimber or what.

Thoughts?
 
Some just use the barrel (I did this would account for your 1/1000), but the round may pass this test then be clocked differently when actually loaded into the barrel and snag on the hood (it happens). The case gage covers the entire case and gives you assurance your round will fit. The only area it can’t check is the rim/extractor grove, but unless you have a casepro sizing machine you are not resizing this part anyway. As above bottle neck cartages have “stepped” case gages as you can size them too much and when compared to straight walled cases do need to be trimmed much more often. A damaged rim (from the extractor/ejector, center left photo1) seems to be the most common reason a round fails the case gage test. If you insert it into the gage backwards and rotate, more often than not, it will now drop into and fall freely from the case gage (only use that procedure if your gage is made from steel). Also, times do exist for the bullet to extend over maximum OAL, for reasons of function (long loaded 40, center right photo1) or reduced pressure (dependent on leade). Leade, throat, or freebore is the section of area between the end of the chamber and the beginning of the rifling and is different from gun to gun. It is that difference and the different ogives of individual bullets that you really can’t say “x” is the best OAL for “Y” round. http://www.dillonhelp.com/xl650english2/pg28.htm is a good step by step.



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Mt Shooter said:
Twenty out of 200 did pass with this thing (its a L. E. Wilson) I set them aside and plan on taking the to the range
I assume you mean the cartridges wouldn't drop freely into the gage.
Try putting some more crimp on them and try again.
 
Wow.

Hey there:
This could be any number of things. (1) bullet loaded too long. (2) Lead shaved down along side of the brass, making the round too fat.
(3) Dirty chamber. (4) too much lube. ????????

That round should get at the most only a slight crimp. A taper crimp. Not a rolled crimp. The .45 acp head spaces on the case mouth. Too long and they will not go all the way. A dented case can be a problem. scratched cases ?
IOne way would be to check with case guage , before loading. Not after.
If the round goes in before loading but wont after. The problem is one of teh already mentioned. Sounds like they may be too long. if the gun won't go into battery , the round is to blame and is likely too long or the case is not sized right , or the crimp is wrong. Lead ring stuck on the case at the mouth. something. Kimbers do have tight chambers. And this will required properly sized cases. I have run into a few cases that were just too long.
Trimming acp cases is not all that fun.
 
Are you using lead bullets? Depending on the dimensions of the gauge, the .452 lead bullets may not allow it to enter.
 
I have case guages ( Dillon and Midway ) for each of my handgun cartridges and the only time I find that one doesn't fit, is when my seating depth or crimp is not exact.
 
Many loaded rounds that just do fail a case gauge will fire in most factory chambers. Most factory chambers are not all that tight. Nothing wrong with that.
 
That is what I am kinda thinking that they will fire fine. I just don't want to chance it with the match on Saturday, I'll take them up next week some time and burn them up practicing. What is odd they where all from the same run/loading session, nothing was touched on a progressive press.
 
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