Case Lube Question

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Wwalstrom

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Most people have told me that case lube, such as RCBS's thick gooey stuff is only fit for a Ram lube, which I do use it for, but I've never had a problem with it, and it works. I have also used Hornady 1-shot lube, mostly on pistol cases, and it works fine for that ... but at $10 a spray can it's a bit spendy. I have recently scrounged 4 cases of Mold release from the dumpster at work (two cases are silicone based, two are teflon based, and all are "dry"). Does anyone know if these would make good case lube? Should I just give some a try, and risk getting a case stuck?
 
Wwalstrum,

The best case lube is also one of the cheapest (1000's of cases for about $5). Imperial sizing die wax (recently bought out by Redding) is the choice of those in the know.

Don
 
Cheaper and just as good if not better, easier to clean off, Hornady's "Unique" case lube for doing rifle brass. As far as pistol stuff goes any spray lube will do the job.
 
Wow $10, it only $6.95 here sorry to hear that. Ever since I started using the Hornady 1-shot everything else has went in the trash except the RCBS lube which I use on my shell plates. The only thing I lube anymore is .223 Rem since all my other rifles are bolt actions so I only next size which doesn't require any lube but I do shoot a little one shot in the die ever so often.
 
You're lubing pistol cases?

With carbide resizing dies, I've never had to lubricate pistol cartridges when resizing.

+1 on neck sizing bottle neck cases whenever possible.

When I do full length a bottle neck rifle case, I've been using a tube of RCBS lube on lube pad for years. I bought two tubes of this stuff some time back, and I think the second tube will expire past it's shelf life before I get to use it. -A little goes a long way.

I do know guys that use the Imperial and like it though.

Expensive spray lubes are not needed.

-Steve
 
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The only can of "one shot" I had went into the dumpster half-used after sticking a case in a die. Also the mess it left on my loading blocks is still there years later. They could give it away, I still won't use it.

RCBS case slick spray is the easiest to use so far. A little goes a long way. I occasionally use some imperial for special projects, it's the slickest of any I've tried, BUT it's a PITA to apply, messy hands and slow.

(two cases are silicone based, two are teflon based, and all are "dry"). Does anyone know if these would make good case lube? Should I just give some a try, and risk getting a case stuck?

I doubt that the silicone stuff would work. Ditto on the teflon. A case lube has to have a high film strength to keep two different metals sliding under a lot of pressure. A dry lube would break down, leaving space for the brass to gall, then stick to the dry steel die. I tried liquid silicone ONCE! I was lucky to get the shell out of the die without using the case extractor!:cuss:
 
I'm still using my RCBS lube and pad. works just fine and I haven't ever had a stuck case as I have had with One Shot. Until I run out of RCBS lube for the pad I don't see a different case lube in my near future. :)
 
Only time I lube is on rifle rounds. Have never lubed for pistol rounds (don't one a .357 SIG). For the rifle brass I use Hornady's 1 Shot.
 
I only lube 9mm because the tapered case walls create some resistance even with carbide dies. I use Lee Lube diluted about 12:1 with 91% denatured alcohol. Shake and spray and see if it doesn't make a difference.(Let the alcohol evaporate for about ten minutes before loading.)
 
I like the 'gooey' RCBS lube for bottleneck cases.
I don't use the pad though.

I put a few drops on my hands and rub it in.
Roll 5-6 brass in your hands like you're trying to warm them.
Then feed the brass into the sizer one at a time as you wipe each neck/shoulder with your fingers to double check it.
After 12-15-maybe 20 or so, put another drop of lube on your hands & rub it in.

When you get used to it, and develope a feel for the right amount to put/keep on your hands, its a real fast way to size/deprime a few hundred rifle brass on a single stage press, and never have a 'lube dent' on the shoulder either.

Afterwards, I wash them in soap & water, then dry them in the oven on a cookie sheet & towel with the door open at 200 degrees.

Then, they're ready for the tumbler & finishing the reloading process.
By washing them first, my tumbeling media lasts for 10s of thousands of rounds before it finally gets 'clogged' or whatever makes it quit working.

.
 
The "trick" with Oneshot is to spray and wait a little while before sizing the case. I got too quick with some 223 brass a while back, and sized too soon after applying the lube. Stuck a case real good. I usually wait about an hour after spraying before sizing. When I do that, no problems.
 
Most people have told me that case lube, such as RCBS's thick gooey stuff is only fit for a Ram lube

In all fairness to RCBS their case lube works fine, many just don't prefer it to others, especially Imperial Sizing Die Wax.

I still use what I have left (RCBS) when loading "blasting" .223. I just keep my thumb and finger lubed a bit and rub each case as I put it in the shellplate. I probably won't replace it when it runs out because I like Imperial better. I use a "strainer" that is used to hold surgical instraments for sterilizing and rinse the cases with hot water and blow dry or just set them in the sun. Imperial seems easier to get off the cases.
 
If you use Nu Finish car polish in your tumbler media, you won't have to lube your pistol cases, they'll be plenty slick enough.

As far as rifle cases go:

Imperial sizing die wax is the best
Gardner Bender Wire Aide Wire Pulling Lubricant Part #79-006 used with a new RCBS lube pad is really good, especially when used wet and is very cheap.

Use powdered graphite from Ace hardware inside the neck of the in both the above cases.

Hornady 1-shot is good, but a bit pricey. One needs to know how to use it for it to be effective. It can be quite easy and quick to apply if one lines up the cases in a cookie pan, then sprays at an angle to distribute the spray both in the neck mouth as well as across the case. Make the lines short as to allow the cases to roll after spray to distribute the spray, thereby distributing the lubricant.

Regards,

Dave
 
Hornady 1-Shot gets my vote hands down

Dave is dead on about how to use either the Hornady 1-shot or the Frankford Arsenal Case Lube. I have used the cookie sheet method for years and I have never stuck a case with Hornady 1-shot. I have loaded over 10K rounds with currently my current can of Hornady 1-shot and I get them for under $7 a can. It is clean, doesn't cause lube dents on the neck if over applied, and it is easy.
 
One shot. 4 stuck cases.:cuss:
Let the stuff dry. :mad: :cuss: :fire:
I used some, last summer. The cases are still, sticky. I even used soap and water on a rag. Still sticky.
J.U.N.K.:cuss:

Lee great stuff. Wipes off wet or dry. Helps shine the brass.:D
 
If you clean your brass real well with polish in the media, it makes a TON of difference

I use a pad with RCBS lube on about every 2nd or 3rd rifle case IF I full length size

Unless I'm using my AR, I just use a Lee Collet on most stuff and don't worry about lube.
 
Hey Zippy06 you do know that there is a Hornady 1-Shot gun lube in with almost the exact same label. I am not trying to be a smart ass but I did pick up the wrong can once and if the clerk hadn't paying attention to what else I had bought I would have took it home and tied to use it on cases. I have been using Hornady 1-shot for years and the cases have never been sticky; they are always slippery.
 
Zippy,

+1 what Idano said. You used the wrong stuff. 1-shot is basically wax and alcohol. You spray it on, the alcohol evaporates leaving a waxy coating that comes off easily.

Dave
 
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