Case Lube Recipes

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I use Iso-Heet and 80W gear oil 10:1 for 5.56. Dual use, both from the local auto parts store. The 80W is leftover from the last transmission oil change, and the Iso-Heet can go in the gas tank this winter.

Pistol cases seem OK in the carbide resizing die, but the die likes an occasional thin film of 80W on a case.

Seriously!? This process works?
If true, I got loads of gear oil and 5 gallons of pure alcohol sitting in my garage space that I rent.
Between Hornady's Unique case lube and that I'll never run out of case lube if I lived another life time! 5.26.20_007[1].jpg 5.26.20_006[1].jpg
 
Seriously!? This process works?

Yep, it works. Really! Like isopropanol+lanolin, spritz 10:1 and tumble in a 1-gallon zip-lock to coat the brass, then let dry. I use it for small-diameter brass (like 5.56) that likes to get stuck in the die.

The oil comes off in a wet pin tumbler with some laundry detergent.

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Yep, it works. Really! Like isopropanol+lanolin, spritz 10:1 and tumble in a 1-gallon zip-lock to coat the brass, then let dry. I use it for small-diameter brass (like 5.56) that likes to get stuck in the die.

The oil comes off in a wet pin tumbler with some laundry detergent.

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Huh...well I'll be dipped!
When my Hornady Unique runs dry, I'll give your process a go!
Was gonna try Pam cooking spray. Heard that stuff works great too!
 
When my Hornady Unique runs dry, I'll give your process a go!

As a machinist, you could probably inform the rest of us. I initially tried 5W20, but 5.56 brass still occasionally stuck in the resizer. Next tried 80W, which worked much better. My uninformed theory is that longer hydrocarbons provide fewer sites for the brass to work-weld itself to the steel die while resizing. Some case lubes contain beeswax, an even longer hydrocarbon.

5.56 is a special "case", if you'll pardon the pun. Large surface area for its case rim. The brass welds itself to the die, then the rim fails during extraction from the die. Annoying.

Never had an issue with bigger cases like .308.
 
Well, as a retired machinist, I don't have a lot of knowledge about the properties of motor/gear oils other than the lack of proper lubrication of an engine kept me well paid and busy and the manufacture of various medical devices paid pretty well too.
The oils used in machining automotive and medical devices are completely different, I know that much.
The lubricating oils came in 55 gallon drums already made and mixed.
Also, as I don't reload 5.56 ammo, I'm unaware of the nuances between 5.56 and .308 resizing.
My suggestion would be to try either the Isoheet/lanolin concoction or my preferred lube, Hornady Unique case lube and see how that works for you.
Also make sure your cases are clean as well as your die(s) before resizing. Gummed up dies are prone to stuck cases and that little weep hole on the side of the die needs to be cleaned out once in awhile too.
 
Gummed up dies are prone to stuck cases and that little weep hole on the side of the die needs to be cleaned out once in awhile too.

OK, THR, how many of you have recently cleaned the weep hole on your resizing die? :uhoh: C'mon, fess up.

Thanks, DD.:thumbup:
 
I've used plain old petroleum jelly. Just rubbed some into my palms, grabbed cases and rolled them a few times between my hands. Never had a stuck case...
 
OK, THR, how many of you have recently cleaned the weep hole on your resizing die? :uhoh: C'mon, fess up. .:thumbup:

I never have. That's because I use Redding dies and they don't have vent holes. I don't dent brass either.
 
I never have. That's because I use Redding dies and they don't have vent holes. I don't dent brass either.
Yeah, I haven't dented any cases, don't know if I could because I use Hornady Unique case lube . I use RCBS and Hornady dies with weep holes.
I clean my dies before every use too.
 
I clean my dies before every use too.

Say you are cleaning your sizing die do you remove the entire die or just remove the insert and clean it on the press. I prefer do do this to avoid re calibrating the die on the press.
 
That's because I use Redding dies and they don't have vent holes. I don't dent brass either.

I did not know that but now I remember cleaning Redding dies and looking for the hole and not cleaning it.
 
Yes the homemade lanolin lube or Dillion's works great on the RCBS lube pad. One spray will do many cases before you need another squirt. I lube .223 to 50 BMG with lanolin lube on my RCBS pad. I do use a nylon neck brush to lube inside necks. I tumble in corn cob media to remove the lanolin lube. Don't recommend walnut media as the dusty walnut sticks to the lanollin and makes a gunky mess especially in necks. No mixture more than 10-1. More lanolin makes it too greasy. At 10-1 in is close to Dillion's lube.

I of course bought a bunch of lizzard bedding walnut media. I've been using drier sheets and still notice the cases are a little dusty and have been giving them a rinse with water to get the dust off and then oven drying for a bit. Would giving them a bath help with a gunky mess of lanolin? I'm guessing the lanolin isn't water soluble?

ETA, I'm currently using the RCBS case lube and pad. As I understand, the RCBS lube is water soluble.
 
One 4 oz bottle of this is 10.00:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014AWF0S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
One quart of this is 12.00
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0868R7JF6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For bottleneck/rifle I decant a bit off the bottle of alcohol and add 3/4th of the lanolin to it, then screw a spray head onto the alcohol bottle. For pistol, I decant off some of the alcohol, and add 1/3 of the lanolin to it.

It doesn't go bad, but will seperate a bit if it sits for a while (which indicates you aren't shooting enough). Shake it up before using.

It's a lot cheaper if you buy it from CVS or Costco, but the above includes shipping to your door, just add a spray head from something else you've used up.

2 or 3 squirts on a plastic tubby with 3 or 4 hundred pieces of brass. Shake it, another squirt, shake once more, let it dry for 20 minutes, and go. I haven't stuck a case in about 20 years with this. My last stuck case was a .223 in a RCBS die with One Shot before 911 happened. Made my own ever since, and have never stuck a case again.
 
Say you are cleaning your sizing die do you remove the entire die or just remove the insert and clean it on the press. I prefer do do this to avoid re calibrating the die on the press.
I remove the whole die, the depriming shaft/ball and the die itself.
I have the Hornady Lock-n-Load set up so I don't have to mess with the setting.
Set it and forget it kind of kit though some brands of brass require small adjustments to set the shoulder to proper dimensions.
 
One 4 oz bottle of this is 10.00:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014AWF0S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
One quart of this is 12.00
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0868R7JF6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For bottleneck/rifle I decant a bit off the bottle of alcohol and add 3/4th of the lanolin to it, then screw a spray head onto the alcohol bottle. For pistol, I decant off some of the alcohol, and add 1/3 of the lanolin to it.

It doesn't go bad, but will seperate a bit if it sits for a while (which indicates you aren't shooting enough). Shake it up before using.

It's a lot cheaper if you buy it from CVS or Costco, but the above includes shipping to your door, just add a spray head from something else you've used up.

2 or 3 squirts on a plastic tubby with 3 or 4 hundred pieces of brass. Shake it, another squirt, shake once more, let it dry for 20 minutes, and go. I haven't stuck a case in about 20 years with this. My last stuck case was a .223 in a RCBS die with One Shot before 911 happened. Made my own ever since, and have never stuck a case again.


If your process works I wouldn't change it in any way.
Mine works great for me.
I guess there's about a million ways to "skin a cat" so to speak.
 
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