Dillon Case Lube vs Hornaday One Shot

[Hooda Thunkit]

I'm going to be an outlier here, but that's the story of my life.

I use Lee lube, the stuff that comes in a tube. I mix it about 10/1 with 90% rubbing alcohol. It settles out after a few days, so shake very well before use.
Three or four spritzes in a baggie of cases, shake around, dump it to dry. Dries in maybe 2 minutes.

The mix leaves a very, very light film of a waxy lube. I have never stuck a case.

And it is unbelievably cheap. Like me.

 

[Jack B.]

I started using One Shot several years ago. It works perfect on rifle and pistol for me. I'm not going to bother trying anything else.

 

[Skgreen]

I, too, have never stuck a case, but everyday is a new day, I suppose.
Have used OS, Unique, and RCBS, (both 'roll-on' and spray.)
Each has their own merit, but depending on what I'm doing, I've mainly been alternating between the 2 Hornady products.

 

[GBExpat]

I started using One Shot several years ago. It works perfect on rifle and pistol for me. I'm not going to bother trying anything else.

I am about to start back into 5.56x45 production but I will not use any lanolin mix until I have done some experimentation and convinced myself that I have an easy process by which I can remove the nasty/persistent stuff.

Until such time, I will continue using Hornady One Shot on the 5.56 cases.

Before changing to lanolin I would probably switch to using Hornady Unique (or another leather footwear treatment like Mink Oil, Wet Pruf or SNO-SEAL) like I use with my .32-20 cases.

 

[cfullgraf]

I use Lee lube, the stuff that comes in a tube. I mix it about 10/1 with 90% rubbing alcohol. It settles out after a few days, so shake very well before use.
Three or four spritzes in a baggie of cases, shake around, dump it to dry. Dries in maybe 2 minutes.

I used the Lee lube in a tube several decades ago and found it worked quite well as a case sizing lubricant. But finger application was a bit of a pain although water clean up was nice.

If the alcohol does not change the water solubility of the lubricant, then the alcohol provides a good carrier for spraying the lubricant on cases. Then, later, the lubricant can easily be cleaned off by some wet method.

I just might give it a try.

 

[Kaldor]

I dont seem to have any issues tumbling lanolin off with Dawn and SSTL pins...
Been doing it for the last 50000 rounds.

 

[GBExpat]

I dont seem to have any issues tumbling lanolin off with Dawn and SSTL pins...
Been doing it for the last 50000 rounds.

If I wished to run the cases thru the F.A.R.T. ... again ... this time with Dawn, I am fairly sure that the lanolin would be adequately removed.

O'course, adding a 2nd F.A.R.T. cycle to my reloading process is not something that I would consider an "easy" solution.

In addition, since I use ArmorAll Wash&Wax instead of Dawn, if I were going to consider changing (i.e., complicating) my process to include such a 2nd F.A.R.T. cycle, I would also have to investigate whether or not AAW&W could handle the task of both removing lanolin and still adequately providing a wax coating to the clean cases.

 

[Hooda Thunkit]

I used the Lee lube in a tube several decades ago and found it worked quite well as a case sizing lubricant. But finger application was a bit of a pain although water clean up was nice.

If the alcohol does not change the water solubility of the lubricant, then the alcohol provides a good carrier for spraying the lubricant on cases. Then, later, the lubricant can easily be cleaned off by some wet method.

I just might give it a try.

I don't clean it off. I just load and shoot. It's not sticky, just a very thin waxy feel.
I have to look closely to even see it on the case.

Sometimes I stand cases up in a block (a homemade one - I'm cheap, remember?) and give them a shot. That way I can get just a bit into the neck.
Then, when I take them out of the block, I can see a line on the case where the coating is. Sort of a 'tan line', if you will.

 

[Kaldor]

If I wished to run the cases thru the F.A.R.T. ... again ... this time with Dawn, I am fairly sure that the lanolin would be adequately removed.

O'course, adding a 2nd F.A.R.T. cycle to my reloading process is not something that I would consider an "easy" solution.

In addition, since I use ArmorAll Wash&Wax instead of Dawn, if I were going to consider changing (i.e., complicating) my process to include such a 2nd F.A.R.T. cycle, I would also have to investigate whether or not AAW&W could handle the task of both removing lanolin and still adequately providing a wax coating to the clean cases.

You could try use some Dawn and Armor All? I do mine in a single pass, but my drums are about double the size the the FART so I can run more soap and water than most.

I've looked around for a soap that will reliably cut thru lanolin and Dawn is the best I have found.

 

[cfullgraf]

I don't clean it off. I just load and shoot. It's not sticky, just a very thin waxy feel.

Cleaning cases with any lubricant on them is one of my reloading idiosyncrasies.

 

[GBExpat]

I've looked around for a soap that will reliably cut thru lanolin and Dawn is the best I have found.

Dawn would be my first choice for trying to cut thru lanolin, but now I do not need to experiment the matter. Thanks!

I remember the first time I put a bit of the lanolin on my finger to see how it felt, I experienced a minor flashback to doing the same thing with STP back in the early '70s (late '60s?). WOW! That is some slick goo! ... then I had to work at trying to wash it off.

 

[Laphroaig]

I've looked around for a soap that will reliably cut thru lanolin and Dawn is the best I have found.

I'm going to take that under advisement. I've been using TSP and hot water in my Thumlers Tumbler. That gets it off too.

 

[GBExpat]

... I've been using TSP and hot water in my Thumlers Tumbler. That gets it off too.

I, for one, am not surprised. TSP will also remove enamel paint.