Casting From Scratch

[lizziedog1]

I have been reloading for handguns and rifles for over thirty years. Shotshells for a couple of years. While my mechanical abilities leave alot to be desired, I have have never really had many problems with this hobby.

I do use lead bullets sometimes, but always factory made. I have never tried casting and have absolutely no equipment to undertake it.

Recently I purchased the latest Lyman reloading manual. Cast bullet data is included with most of the cartridges. There is also a chapter about the basics of casting bullets. I am thinking that this might be an interesting way to expand on my shooting hobbies.

How complicated is this hobby? What is the minimal equipment required? How do cast bullets compare to the commerically made lead bullets? Is the expense and time worth the effort? Would it be easier to start with handgun bullets or rifle bullets?

A lot questions I know! But I want to be sure before undertaking this.

 

[JimKirk]

Casting can be as simple as ...a fire, a iron pot, a mold, a spoon and some bullet lube.

It can also get as complicated as you would like... with all kind of fancy equipment and added "stuff" just like reloading ... casting can be a whole 'nother hobby in itself.

I have a Lyman bottom pour pot, Lyman 450 lube/sizer, a bunch of Lyman mold blocks and handles, ingot molds, iron melting pot/ burner(turkey fryer), a bunch of sizing dies and top punches for the 450, thermometer and several ladles.

Jimmy K

 

[Mousegun]

If you do start casting, be sure to do it in a vented area like outside even.

I made a cubby hole out of wood and had a strong squirrel cage vent motor with a duct to the outside when I did it in my basement. If I do it outside, I set up a fan behind me.

Lead vapor is deadly.

 

[USSR]

How complicated is this hobby? What is the minimal equipment required? How do cast bullets compare to the commerically made lead bullets? Is the expense and time worth the effort? Would it be easier to start with handgun bullets or rifle bullets?

Not complicated at all. Of course, there is the initial expense of equipment, just as there is with reloading itself, but with bullets being the most expensive component of assembling ammunition, you will see a return on your investment quite quickly. IMHO, it would be better for you to start with handgun bullets. There is a much better selection of moulds and load data available for them, and you can run most handgun loads at full speed with the correct alloy. There is no reason why you cannot produce bullets comparable in quality to those produced commercially.

Lead vapor is deadly.

Yes it is. But since lead vaporizes at about 1100 degrees, and we are casting at about 600 - 700 degrees, it is not a concern. I have casted in my unventilated basement for years, and my tested lead level is no different from the average noncaster's.

Don

 

[472x1A/B]

JimKirk, very good info. lizziedog1, if you go to castboolits.com web site 99% of your questions maybe, can, or WILL be answered for you sir. I have been casting for 2 1/2 years now and wish, now, I would have started 30 years ago. Don't really know if I do save money, but I sure shoot a whole lot more now than what I shot 2 1/2 years ago.

 

[Fleet]

Also get a copy of the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook. A wealth of info there.

 

[jcwit]

[QUOTELead vapor is deadly. ][/QUOTE]

Yes it is. But since lead vaporizes at about 1100 degrees, and we are casting at about 600 - 700 degrees, it is not a concern. I have casted in my unventilated basement for years, and my tested lead level is no different from the average noncaster's.

This is true, I don't cast in my basement but do in an unventilated room with no problems. And yes I have been tested for heavy metals.

Bigger worry? Shooting in an unventilated range breathing in primer residue or dust from tumbling and again primer residue.

 

[bdixon]

I think you can make much better boolits than you can buy commercially, but commercial bullets are cheap, so you have to decide if it's worth your time. There are hundreds of different mold designs, so you just take your pick.

Just make sure you clean the copper fouling out of your guns and check the diameter of your barrel and cast/size 1-2 thousandths bigger than your barrel.

 

[mcdonl]

Look into a lead supply first perhaps. I used to make my own highland games throwing implements so I have several five gallon buckets of wheel weights. I also have a steady free supply.

I do think though if you had to purchase lead ingots it may not be as cost effective.

STOP

Ok, now that we are over the whole cost effective thing, I find it to be the most rewarding aspect of reloading. I love casting as much as reloading and almost as much as shooting.

 

[snuffy]

If you do start casting, be sure to do it in a vented area like outside even.

I made a cubby hole out of wood and had a strong squirrel cage vent motor with a duct to the outside when I did it in my basement. If I do it outside, I set up a fan behind me.
Lead vapor is deadly.

Somebody else who has fallen hook line and sinker for the EPA's BS! I've been told by those that know lead does not vaporize to a great extent below 1200 degrees, as others have said.

I too cast in an unventilated room that's also my loading room. My heavy metals levels have never gone over 7.0 DL. Even though I frequently shoot @ an indoor range and cast/shoot lead bullets, and smelt scrap lead,(done outdoors). I also tumble spent shells, but try to contain the dust as much as possible. Personal hygiene is extremely important.

Don't eat, drink, or smoke while handling lead, bullets or fired shells. Thoroughly wash your hands and face after handling lead. Keep kids and pets away from the area where lead is handled, or your wife/GF if she is pregnant.

As for the equipment costs, you can easily assemble a casting set-up for under $200.00. That would include an electric lee furnace, several lee molds, a lee push-through sizer, and lee tumble lube called lee liquid alox. For one caliber/W two bullet weights, or for two different calibers.

I don't recommend somebody try to cast over a camp stove with an iron pot and ladle. It's a great way to get turned off to casting, the results are poor at best, so frustration sets in fast. I've been casting since 1974, I couldn't get usable boolits from a camp stove/iron pot.

 

[pdawg.shooter]

If you do get into casting, you might want to consider paper patching your cast bullets for rifle shooting. With paper you can have the same accuracy and velocity as jacketed at a fraction of the cost.

 

[whipper]

Too me, it's just plain ol FUN!!!!

 

[snuffy]

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=645810 $64.99

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=789762 $19.49

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=776747 $19.49

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=116429 $17.29

121.26

lizziedog1, this is the basic cost for a set-up that would get you ready to cast for a 45 auto. melt the lead, pour the bullet, lube it by tumbling, then run it through the sizer. Ready to load. And YES you can use the tumble lube for conventional lube groove bullets!

The Lee Pro 4 20 Lb Furnace is the best one they make, it has the ability to function as a bottom pour, and enough room to allow you to use a ladle if you want to try that method.

You didn't say which caliber, BUT the above prices would be the same no matter which handgun caliber(S) you may have. The same would go for rifle, the 2 cav lee molds all cost about the same money. Occasionally midway has a sale that will save a couple bucks off a mold, or other stuff.

I would certainly suggest you start with a simple handgun bullet without a gas check. Rifle bullets are a step up in skill level requirements, and paper patching is another higher skill level.

 

[GP100man]

Me to !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My first 6banger mold boolits Lee 158gr. RNFP !!!!

I started with a Lee 2 holer & a Lyman ladle , 2qt. stainless steel pot (NO ALUMINUM!!!) over a heat source & tumble lubed the boolits !!

Now I have I lost count molds ,4 smelting pots , 2 casting pots, 2 sizers , a bucket of H&I dies top punches , a statch of lubes !!

Saving money , I`ll plead the 5th on that SWMBO comes on every now&then , but I have a supply of custom boolits the size my revolver wants when I want to shoot em !!!

Besides it`s good therapy & keeps me out of REAL trouble !!!!!except the time I was pullin whel weights at Wal-Mart !!!!LOL

 

[Sky King]

I've been casting for over 30 yrs. only pistol bullets. The initial cost of equipment might be cost prohibitive at first, but the cost per bullet after that is minimal the more you make. I get my lead from auto repair facilities and tire dealers that I purchased my tires from. Also being in the printing industry I get my hands on a lot of linotype to add to the wheel weight for added hardness.
As noted earlier the Cast Boolits forum has a wealth of infomation as to what style of bullet, casting equipment, lube to use, loads and much more.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com
Good luck with your new hobby.
Also be prepared to burn your clothes and hands

 

[familyman555]

I recommend that you get a bottom pour melt pot. I bought the least expensive pot type where you have to use a dipper and deal with all the trash floating on top of the good lead below. I have ocassionally seen used ones for sale on E-bay for about half price.

 

[918v]

Home casting one at a time produces better bullets than what is commercially available, although Laser Cast is extremely consistent. My box of 200gr LSWC is all within 1 grain of one another and the bases are perfect.

 

[snuffy]

I recommend that you get a bottom pour melt pot. I bought the least expensive pot type where you have to use a dipper and deal with all the trash floating on top of the good lead below. I have occasionally seen used ones for sale on E-bay for about half price.

I agree on this point, as I said in my post above. The "trash" floating on the surface of the melt is more commonly called dross. It is actually valuable oxidized metals that should be fluxed back into the lead alloy. Some of it is dirt, sand, a what's left of whatever organic compounds that were with the scrap lead.

The old wives tale about tin and antimony "floating to the surface" is false. Once combined into the lead, tin and antimony become a true alloy or solution. It's nearly impossible to separate them. What DOES happen is, the tin reacts much more quickly than lead or antimony with the oxygen in the atmosphere. So it's exposure to the air means that it oxidizes first and much faster than the others. That's why the dross appears faster at temps above 700 degrees. Going to 800 degrees means you'll "burn out" your tin, UNLESS you flux every ten minutes.

That means precise temp control must be exercised, use of a thermometer is almost a must.

I know I'm getting into detailed info for a beginners thread, but I sometimes can't help sharing what I've learned in the 40 years of doing this fascinating hobby.