grubbylabs
Member
I have not noticed that problem, but I do have to clean the die and punch once in a while. I do gas check a 44 cal and a .460 bullet with gas checks but I also cast a 45 cal and another 44 call with a plain base.
Casting your own bullets?
- Thread starter Ruger44mag
- Start date
- Status
jcwit
member
Precisily what I mentioned.
41 Mag
Member
To be honest, I poured my first REAL cast bullets last May. Before that I got the noted books and read through them, as well as hours upon hours of internet post and article searches. In fact I researched the "how to" for a bit over 6 months so once I DID get into it I would have the absolute necessity on tools and be able to go from 1 bullet to 1K with not much if any additional equipment. I don't have room for the lube sizer so the push through dies from Lee are my main tools for that.
As for the best information, the Castboolit site is LOADED with stickys, which go into great detail on many different aspects not to mention the post which can easily be searched. The next best thing to that has been the LASC site, and the free download From Ingot to Target, along with the also listed Cast Bullet Notes. There isn't much you can't do with the info on LASC, not only the Glen Fryxell articles but the others who have contributed as well.
As for lubes, I have tried several, but my mainstay is the 45/45/10 recipe noted as Recluse Lube on Castboolits. It is made by heating up Johnson's Paste Wax while stirring and keeping the temp just at the point it will smoke to release the solvents, after a period of around 15 or so minutes you add in an equal portion of what is left, of the Lee Alox, and shut the heat off and stir it for another 5 to 10 minutes. It sounds like a lot of work but the result will be a batch of lube that will last you multiple thousands of bullets. Most folks use too much, you only need enough to lightly coat the bullets period. I put enough on that I can see it therefore I know I am using to much, but I am pushing them to the magnum limits and don't sweat the little things.
dickttx,
The Lee mold is a 2 cavity one for the 452 255RF. I have it as well as the 6 cavity. THe biggest issue with the 2 cavity is it is a bit loosely built. If you set up a piece of square tubing or similar type raised rest on which you can close it on or rest it on when closing to keep the halves square it will last you a good while with no issues. I use the Lee 4-20 pot which I raised up years ago to allow me to pour up tubing cased surf weights. It had to be tall enough to alloy me to get up to a 5" piece of 1/2" copper or SS tubing under it while standing in a pan of sand with the legs installed. As such I have a nice high pot now. I use some aluminum square tubing and flat bar to set my mold heights so that I can get within 1/4" of the spout or 3/8" from the spout depending on which molds I am using. Some like to be close some not so close for fill out.
THe 6 cavity molds CAN be a bit much, but if you have them on something to help hold the weight where all your doing is sliding it from one hole to the next as you pour, then you only have to hold it long enough to cut the sprue and dump it makes life a whole lot easier. I use the 452 300RF C which is the gas checked bullet for my 454, as well as the 430 310RF for my 44. I simply LOVe the production, but you DO have to watch your pot level as it will go down fast with anything over 250grs and 6 cavities.
Hope this helps.
As for the best information, the Castboolit site is LOADED with stickys, which go into great detail on many different aspects not to mention the post which can easily be searched. The next best thing to that has been the LASC site, and the free download From Ingot to Target, along with the also listed Cast Bullet Notes. There isn't much you can't do with the info on LASC, not only the Glen Fryxell articles but the others who have contributed as well.
As for lubes, I have tried several, but my mainstay is the 45/45/10 recipe noted as Recluse Lube on Castboolits. It is made by heating up Johnson's Paste Wax while stirring and keeping the temp just at the point it will smoke to release the solvents, after a period of around 15 or so minutes you add in an equal portion of what is left, of the Lee Alox, and shut the heat off and stir it for another 5 to 10 minutes. It sounds like a lot of work but the result will be a batch of lube that will last you multiple thousands of bullets. Most folks use too much, you only need enough to lightly coat the bullets period. I put enough on that I can see it therefore I know I am using to much, but I am pushing them to the magnum limits and don't sweat the little things.
dickttx,
The Lee mold is a 2 cavity one for the 452 255RF. I have it as well as the 6 cavity. THe biggest issue with the 2 cavity is it is a bit loosely built. If you set up a piece of square tubing or similar type raised rest on which you can close it on or rest it on when closing to keep the halves square it will last you a good while with no issues. I use the Lee 4-20 pot which I raised up years ago to allow me to pour up tubing cased surf weights. It had to be tall enough to alloy me to get up to a 5" piece of 1/2" copper or SS tubing under it while standing in a pan of sand with the legs installed. As such I have a nice high pot now. I use some aluminum square tubing and flat bar to set my mold heights so that I can get within 1/4" of the spout or 3/8" from the spout depending on which molds I am using. Some like to be close some not so close for fill out.
THe 6 cavity molds CAN be a bit much, but if you have them on something to help hold the weight where all your doing is sliding it from one hole to the next as you pour, then you only have to hold it long enough to cut the sprue and dump it makes life a whole lot easier. I use the 452 300RF C which is the gas checked bullet for my 454, as well as the 430 310RF for my 44. I simply LOVe the production, but you DO have to watch your pot level as it will go down fast with anything over 250grs and 6 cavities.
Hope this helps.
A Pause for the Coz
Member
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2009
- Messages
- 339
So you want to make some of these eh?
Watch out its addicting.
Lots of great advice here. I would agree 100% Join Castboolits.
I have been casting for a year now.
Here is my list:
Lymans cast bullet manual. I have the one from 1973
LEE 20 pound pot. ( get the 20 pounder right away. You will just end up with it any way. Save your self some money)
You will also need a hot plate. Not kidding ether. Get one! You want to preheat those molds.
SAFETY SAFETY SAFETY!!!! Use the face shield, Welding gloves and heavy LS shirt.
If you accidentally drop a ingot with moisture in it. You want some thing other than you face to catch the 650 deg spray.
Pretty rare and almost imposable if you follow safety rules. But never know. Be SAFE!!!
Also of good use is a old Colman stove and a pot. For melting WW and Larger lead chunks. I just use a steel sauce pan from the Goodwill.
And aluminum muffin tin.
( I tried steel tins but the ingots stick to them)
Molds: LEE molds work fine. 45 ACP or .358 are easy to learn on.
Does not really matter what one. If the bug hits. You will have a junk drawer full any way.
You will need to lube then before shooting.
You dont need to go nuts with it to start out.
Tumble lube and shooting as cast will get you in the door.
NOTE: You can Tumble lube standard lube groove bullets and they work just fine.
Then you can learn pan lubing:
LEE push through sizers work great!!!
Or you can opt for a lube sizer.
Then after learning what and what not to do.
You can shoot some real nice groups.
Enjoy!!!!
Watch out its addicting.
Lots of great advice here. I would agree 100% Join Castboolits.
I have been casting for a year now.
Here is my list:
Lymans cast bullet manual. I have the one from 1973
LEE 20 pound pot. ( get the 20 pounder right away. You will just end up with it any way. Save your self some money)
You will also need a hot plate. Not kidding ether. Get one! You want to preheat those molds.
SAFETY SAFETY SAFETY!!!! Use the face shield, Welding gloves and heavy LS shirt.
If you accidentally drop a ingot with moisture in it. You want some thing other than you face to catch the 650 deg spray.
Pretty rare and almost imposable if you follow safety rules. But never know. Be SAFE!!!
Also of good use is a old Colman stove and a pot. For melting WW and Larger lead chunks. I just use a steel sauce pan from the Goodwill.
And aluminum muffin tin.
( I tried steel tins but the ingots stick to them)
Molds: LEE molds work fine. 45 ACP or .358 are easy to learn on.
Does not really matter what one. If the bug hits. You will have a junk drawer full any way.
You will need to lube then before shooting.
You dont need to go nuts with it to start out.
Tumble lube and shooting as cast will get you in the door.
NOTE: You can Tumble lube standard lube groove bullets and they work just fine.
Then you can learn pan lubing:
LEE push through sizers work great!!!
Or you can opt for a lube sizer.
Then after learning what and what not to do.
You can shoot some real nice groups.
Enjoy!!!!
Last edited:
Ruger44mag
Member
Nice pics! I am sitting on my end of the computer chomping at the bit! Today I'm buying the Lyman manual so I will have some good reading.So you want to make some of these eh?
Watch out its addicting.
Lots of great advice here. I would agree 100% Join Castboolits.
I have been casting for a year now.
Here is my list:
Lymans cast bullet manual. I have the one from 1973
LEE 20 pound pot. ( get the 20 pounder right away. You will just end up with it any way. Save your self some money)
You will also need a hot plate. Not kidding ether. Get one! You want to preheat those molds.
SAFETY SAFETY SAFETY!!!! Use the face shield, Welding gloves and heavy LS shirt.
If you accidentally drop a ingot with moisture in it. You want some thing other than you face to catch the 650 deg spray.
Pretty rare and almost imposable if you follow safety rules. But never know. Be SAFE!!!
Also of good use is a old Colman stove and a pot. For melting WW and Larger lead chunks. I just use a steel sauce pan from the Goodwill.
And aluminum muffin tin.
( I tried steel tins but the ingots stick to them)
Molds: LEE molds work fine. 45 ACP or .358 are easy to learn on.
Does not really matter what one. If the bug hits. You will have a junk drawer full any way.
You will need to lube then before shooting.
You dont need to go nuts with it to start out.
Tumble lube and shooting as cast will get you in the door.
NOTE: You can Tumble lube standard lube groove bullets and they work just fine.
Then you can learn pan lubing:
LEE push through sizers work great!!!
Or you can opt for a lube sizer.
Then after learning what and what not to do.
You can shoot some real nice groups.
Enjoy!!!!
jcwit
member
Say what?
Please explain why one would need all that.
Fifty years ago I started with a single Coleman camp stove which I still use, a small Lee lead pot, a Lee dipper, molds from various manufacturers, and Lee Alox tumble lube. I now have added 2 Lyman 45 lube/sizers, and a SAECO hardness tester, which I have no use for.
I to this day see no absolute need for a furnace, a thermometer, pans to lube with?, a heat gun, turkey baster, or a hot plate.
While the Lyman Manual is not an absolute necessity, it definitely is something I would recommend.
While I don't agree 100% with him on many instances I can see why some of those recomendations.
furnace = lee(or other brand) melting pot, or coleman stove and kettle(need one for smelting anyways,if you do that part)
Thermometer= can get by without, but is nice to know how hot the lead is
mold= several, with handles
sizer= depends if you can get by as cast
pans to lube with= for pan lubing, don't need if tumble lubing
pliers= many,many uses
towel= to drop bullets on out of mold
beeswax= for making your own lube ,if you go that route
turkey baster= I do know there is a reason, but cannot think of it right now,don't know if necessary
hot plate= pre heating molds, very useful
ingot mold= not needed if buying lead already in ingots
hardness tester= personal preference, can get by without easily, nice for repeating alloy.
opinions may vary
furnace = lee(or other brand) melting pot, or coleman stove and kettle(need one for smelting anyways,if you do that part)
Thermometer= can get by without, but is nice to know how hot the lead is
mold= several, with handles
sizer= depends if you can get by as cast
pans to lube with= for pan lubing, don't need if tumble lubing
pliers= many,many uses
towel= to drop bullets on out of mold
beeswax= for making your own lube ,if you go that route
turkey baster= I do know there is a reason, but cannot think of it right now,don't know if necessary
hot plate= pre heating molds, very useful
ingot mold= not needed if buying lead already in ingots
hardness tester= personal preference, can get by without easily, nice for repeating alloy.
opinions may vary
Thank you for your intelligent approach. It is refreshing. Jjjittets covered it. The turkey baster is for introducing lube go the pan or for adding lube to the pan. I found that bullets need to be very hot in the pan else the lube won't fill the grooves. So I place the bullets in the pan, let them warm up, then use the turkey baster to add lube without getting the bullet noses covered.
I use needle nose pliers to pull the bullets from the lube. Javelina does not allow one to pop the cake out of the pan to push the bullets out by their bases.
I use a heat gun to preheat my molds. I dont want to risk warping my irreplaceable H&G and Lyman molds. I put them on the sidewalk, I put the heat gun down next to the mold, and let the two get warmer. The mold hets hot enough go cast a perfect bullet on the first try. And most people have these things anyhow.
I size using Lee sizer dies. They quick and easy. So is pan lubing.
jcwit
member
Ok, I'll buy those explanations, altho I use/do none of them.
I do no pan lubing, at first I used to tumble lube, I now use a one of 2 lube sizers I've purchased along the way. Both are old Lyman 45's I've picked up used, only have $25 in the 2, plus lucked into the more common sizes at least the sizes I needed. At any rate that covers the pans, needlenose pliers, turkey baster.
Using a heat gun to heat up the mold, now there's an idea, never thought of, might try it. I'm really not worried about warping the molds, have always just heated my mold on top of the Coleman stove along with the lead.
I do no pan lubing, at first I used to tumble lube, I now use a one of 2 lube sizers I've purchased along the way. Both are old Lyman 45's I've picked up used, only have $25 in the 2, plus lucked into the more common sizes at least the sizes I needed. At any rate that covers the pans, needlenose pliers, turkey baster.
Using a heat gun to heat up the mold, now there's an idea, never thought of, might try it. I'm really not worried about warping the molds, have always just heated my mold on top of the Coleman stove along with the lead.
I pan lube a lot of bullets and I would never use pliers to yank a bullet out of the lube. Do the new grooves and scratches on the nose help accuracy? The only turkey baster use I've seen is some "expert" on youtube. Mebbe he gets lube in the grooves, but there are easier, better, less messy ways to accomplish this.
For lube to stick in the lube groove, bullets and lube should be the same temp. As noted by another poster, heating the lube with the bullets in a toaster oven works very well (as did the kitchen oven until I got caught!). I use some good lubes that don't "punch out" of the cake well so I just made cake cutters out of stainless steel tubing, reamed to a few thousandths over bullet diameter. By cutting bullets out I don't have to wait for the cake to reach the temp where bullets punch out; I just let the cake/bullets cool and cut them out. I've been using this method for 17 years and it has worked on everything I tried it with. I shoot magnum loads (in .44 Mag. and .357 Mag.) with plain based, air cooled bullets and get no leading.
Best thing is to not overload yourself with equipment and info. Check Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook, and use common sence.
For lube to stick in the lube groove, bullets and lube should be the same temp. As noted by another poster, heating the lube with the bullets in a toaster oven works very well (as did the kitchen oven until I got caught!). I use some good lubes that don't "punch out" of the cake well so I just made cake cutters out of stainless steel tubing, reamed to a few thousandths over bullet diameter. By cutting bullets out I don't have to wait for the cake to reach the temp where bullets punch out; I just let the cake/bullets cool and cut them out. I've been using this method for 17 years and it has worked on everything I tried it with. I shoot magnum loads (in .44 Mag. and .357 Mag.) with plain based, air cooled bullets and get no leading.
Best thing is to not overload yourself with equipment and info. Check Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook, and use common sence.
blarby
Member
Best advice I can give- get the largest capacity molds you can.
I think pretty much everything else has been covered....at length.
I think pretty much everything else has been covered....at length.
The plier marks on the nose do not detract from accuracy and are no more noticeable then the casting line. How do you propose I get the bullets out of a Javalina cake?
As far as the turkey baster goes, what do you do to avoid getting lube all over the bullet noses?
Elkins45
Member
Common sense. My bullets don't have lube on the nose because I don't dunk them. I don't lay the bullets on their side in the lube. I don't try to lube a 1" long bullet in a pan 2" deep! How do you keep lube from solidifying inside a turkey baster? Suck up some liquid lube, immediately it begins to cool (you can't heat a plastic baster), move over to the pan (more time for the lube to cool), and squirt it into the pan. Remaining lube hardens in the baster?
jcwit
member
Sure beats my Lee pot, Coleman single burner stove, and Lee dipper.
blarby
Member
Thats fantastic.
I would buy this before dropping 20 g's on a mastercaster.
I would buy this before dropping 20 g's on a mastercaster.
ReloaderFred
Member
The Master Caster is $995.00, plus shipping. http://www.magmaengineering.com/products/master-caster/
I bought mine used for $500.00, plus $85.00 shipping (it ain't small and light). It included one two cavity .41 mold. There are deals out there, but they don't last long...
I've probably cast somewhere around 40,000 bullets on mine in the last two years. I sure couldn't do that hand casting, nor would I want to. I've got a little over 30 molds for it now and can cover most of my more common calibers with it.
Hope this helps.
Fred
I bought mine used for $500.00, plus $85.00 shipping (it ain't small and light). It included one two cavity .41 mold. There are deals out there, but they don't last long...
I've probably cast somewhere around 40,000 bullets on mine in the last two years. I sure couldn't do that hand casting, nor would I want to. I've got a little over 30 molds for it now and can cover most of my more common calibers with it.
Hope this helps.
Fred
jmorris
Member
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2005
- Messages
- 24,236
There is one over at brianenos.com with 4 molds for $850. Posted on the 13th so I bet there is wiggle room in the price. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/ind...dpost&p=1778990&hl=master+caster&fromsearch=1
The above machine was my first attempt at bullet casting so I really didn't want to put a lot of money into it. $1000 buys a lot of bullets.
The above machine was my first attempt at bullet casting so I really didn't want to put a lot of money into it. $1000 buys a lot of bullets.
Certaindeaf
member
jmorris,
You're my hero! That thing is so cool.
What are those round tubes in the background.. lead pipe?
You're my hero! That thing is so cool.
What are those round tubes in the background.. lead pipe?
jmorris
Member
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2005
- Messages
- 24,236
Thanks guys, I just like building stuff and am lucky enough to have the time.
The aluminum tubes were part of a project I was in the middle of back then. They were pressure tanks I welded up for corrosionx aviation to be applied in tight spaces inside aircraft.
The aluminum tubes were part of a project I was in the middle of back then. They were pressure tanks I welded up for corrosionx aviation to be applied in tight spaces inside aircraft.
bigmouth
Member
PAM is the answer to casting bullets
PAM is the answer! Spread the word. I have been casting bullets for 55 yrs now & just had an idea that works, - for a change. I found several yrs ago that wiping the inside of ice trays with PAM lets the ice cubes just drop out. While casting bullets recently, that thought came back to me. Why not? I sprayed the mold cavity & now instead of hitting the hinge pin maybe 3-6 times, 1 tap & they fall out!
I had to quit reloading yrs ago when I moved to a pagan country that doesn't allow it. Now I'm wondering if PAM won't work well for swagging bullets, wiped in dies etc.. Try it & give some feed-back.
I seldom follow THR, though a member, so you spread the word of this miracle as it needs to be shared.
PAM is the answer! Spread the word. I have been casting bullets for 55 yrs now & just had an idea that works, - for a change. I found several yrs ago that wiping the inside of ice trays with PAM lets the ice cubes just drop out. While casting bullets recently, that thought came back to me. Why not? I sprayed the mold cavity & now instead of hitting the hinge pin maybe 3-6 times, 1 tap & they fall out!
I had to quit reloading yrs ago when I moved to a pagan country that doesn't allow it. Now I'm wondering if PAM won't work well for swagging bullets, wiped in dies etc.. Try it & give some feed-back.
I seldom follow THR, though a member, so you spread the word of this miracle as it needs to be shared.
bigmouth
Member
I'm an A&P and use the same basic method. I see where the small bottle may come in handy in the future. Thanks but have a question if you are knowledgeable about CorrosionX. I live in the Islands with salty air. I've found that salt will migrate thru oil etc. & still corrode. I Like to use baking soda & water first to kill electrolysis first. Experience (45 yrs) makes me think that salt will migrate thru Corrosion X just like it does thru oil etc.. Do you have info. on this. Since this is non gun related, it might be better to just mail me @: [email protected]
- Status
