Zundfolge
Member
I enjoy the CCU (not a MechTech one, this one's made by Impulse Gun Barrels) on my Steyr M40.
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CCU conversion unit
- Thread starter Walkalong
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grendelbane
Member
One could take a CCU, cut the stock off, and cut the barrel back to any length he wanted. Then, assemble it with the frame for a really ugly, awkward, stupid, but legal pistol.
Don't know why I thought of this, I guess I need to get out more.:banghead:
If removing a Gov't model pistol frame from a CCU, and placing the original slide and barrel back on it is a violation of the NFA, then I will spend the rest of my life in prison.
Then again, how are they ever going to prove that it was on the CCU in the first place?
Don't know why I thought of this, I guess I need to get out more.:banghead:
If removing a Gov't model pistol frame from a CCU, and placing the original slide and barrel back on it is a violation of the NFA, then I will spend the rest of my life in prison.
Then again, how are they ever going to prove that it was on the CCU in the first place?
smince
Member.
Nutshell version:
As from the Mechtech website, CA is the only state that has a problem with this assembly, although as always, some local laws may apply.
Have you seen the 16" barrels and stock that attaches to the mainspring housing on a 1911? they are legal too, as long as you put in the 16" barrel.
And, yes, the CCU can be completely disassembled. It's just a little harder than moving that little lever on SIG's and Beretta's. That said, I've put hundreds of rounds through mine with no breakdown. Just a bore cleaing and a toothbrush to the hard to reach places. Then lube appropriately.
As from the Mechtech website, CA is the only state that has a problem with this assembly, although as always, some local laws may apply.
Have you seen the 16" barrels and stock that attaches to the mainspring housing on a 1911? they are legal too, as long as you put in the 16" barrel.
And, yes, the CCU can be completely disassembled. It's just a little harder than moving that little lever on SIG's and Beretta's. That said, I've put hundreds of rounds through mine with no breakdown. Just a bore cleaing and a toothbrush to the hard to reach places. Then lube appropriately.
Flogger
Member
OK,you guys that put M16 stocks on your CCUs please share your data.
Is the CCU upper the same diameter as an M16 buffer tube?Is the CCU drive spring an M16 or M4 sized drive spring?Could the rear of the CCU upper receiver be threaded to accept an M16/CAR15 buffer tube?
The only thing stopping me from going full tilt on a dedicated CCU is the lack of a decent buttstock but you guys seem to have that problem solved.
Idealy I'd like to see if the upper receiver could be trimmed in the rear and a CAR15 buffer tube and stock be attached so that the collapsed length would be the same LOP as a collapsed CAR15.
I have been debating between a Kel-Tec,Oly 9mm AR15/Glock and the CCU and the CCU has been at the top of my list other than the stock and optics mounting.
Holy crud,I have been a member since like 2001 and the server seems to have forgotten who I am and all of my previous posts seem to have disappeared
Is the CCU upper the same diameter as an M16 buffer tube?Is the CCU drive spring an M16 or M4 sized drive spring?Could the rear of the CCU upper receiver be threaded to accept an M16/CAR15 buffer tube?
The only thing stopping me from going full tilt on a dedicated CCU is the lack of a decent buttstock but you guys seem to have that problem solved.
Idealy I'd like to see if the upper receiver could be trimmed in the rear and a CAR15 buffer tube and stock be attached so that the collapsed length would be the same LOP as a collapsed CAR15.
I have been debating between a Kel-Tec,Oly 9mm AR15/Glock and the CCU and the CCU has been at the top of my list other than the stock and optics mounting.
Holy crud,I have been a member since like 2001 and the server seems to have forgotten who I am and all of my previous posts seem to have disappeared
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smince
Member.
OK, the CCU isn't a common design and without one for you to look at, I'm not sure my description will do justice but here goes:
The tube is hollow, and cut out at the bottom. The barrel is a long 1911(or Glock) barrel without the locking lugs. There are spacers that clamp around the barrel to fit it into the tube. A channel runs along the top of the barrel and this holds the recoil spring. It is different than a standard spring, as it stretches during recoil, and contracts to pull the bolt back closed and feed the next round. The recoil spring reminds me of the spring on your grandmothers(or your own, depending on how old you are) wooden screen door when you were a kid. Behind the bolt is hollow until the last two inches or so. This filled up with a rubber buffer and the tube is welded with a cap.
The threaded nut that came with my CAR stock is about the same dia as the CCU tube. I considered a weld operation, but went a different way. I made a tube at work that has an ID the same as the OD of the CCU receiver tube. I slipped it over the tube and drilled/tapped holes and screwed it on with three cap screws. The threaded CAR nut I slipped into the part that I left over hanging the end of the CCU tube(after I cut the factory stock off). The then drilled and tapped it similiarly to the tube. I then screwed the buffer tube into the nut, lined it up, drilled hole that matched the sleeve I made and scrwed the whole thing together. I then added the CAR stock and Duracoated the whole assembly. You can see the cap screws in this pic:
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=47520&d=1162954423
Over-all length of mine with the stock collapsed is right around 30".
The tube is hollow, and cut out at the bottom. The barrel is a long 1911(or Glock) barrel without the locking lugs. There are spacers that clamp around the barrel to fit it into the tube. A channel runs along the top of the barrel and this holds the recoil spring. It is different than a standard spring, as it stretches during recoil, and contracts to pull the bolt back closed and feed the next round. The recoil spring reminds me of the spring on your grandmothers(or your own, depending on how old you are) wooden screen door when you were a kid. Behind the bolt is hollow until the last two inches or so. This filled up with a rubber buffer and the tube is welded with a cap.
The threaded nut that came with my CAR stock is about the same dia as the CCU tube. I considered a weld operation, but went a different way. I made a tube at work that has an ID the same as the OD of the CCU receiver tube. I slipped it over the tube and drilled/tapped holes and screwed it on with three cap screws. The threaded CAR nut I slipped into the part that I left over hanging the end of the CCU tube(after I cut the factory stock off). The then drilled and tapped it similiarly to the tube. I then screwed the buffer tube into the nut, lined it up, drilled hole that matched the sleeve I made and scrwed the whole thing together. I then added the CAR stock and Duracoated the whole assembly. You can see the cap screws in this pic:
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=47520&d=1162954423
Over-all length of mine with the stock collapsed is right around 30".
Flogger
Member
OUTSTANDING!!!!
smince,that was a great explanation of the mechanism of that particlar unit.So at least the last couple of inches of that upper receiver is rubber buffers and it is sealed at the rea and assembles from the front via the barrel retaining blocks?
Theoretically then I could take it all out the front,turn off the last couple of inches on the rear,ream and thread the inside of the tube to accept an M16 buffer tube and stick in an Oly Arms pneumatic buffer with the original rubber bonded to the impact surface of the Oly buffer to place them in the original position but with the added cushioning of the pneumatic buffer rather than the fixed/welded wall?
That would knock a couple of inches off of the length of pull with a telestock and I could use the original CAR-15 stock nut to apply counterpressure against the turned face at the upper receiver's rear to hold it tight?
How about the forend?Are the screws that hold the forend in place going all the way through the receiver shell to the barrel block?Are they the primary screw that hold the barrel/block/recoil spring assembly in place?
Does the stretching type recoil spring anchor to the barrel block?How far from the front of the receiver does the recoil spring start?
This could a really neat project to mutate into something totally unique.
smince,you have inspired me!!
smince,that was a great explanation of the mechanism of that particlar unit.So at least the last couple of inches of that upper receiver is rubber buffers and it is sealed at the rea and assembles from the front via the barrel retaining blocks?
Theoretically then I could take it all out the front,turn off the last couple of inches on the rear,ream and thread the inside of the tube to accept an M16 buffer tube and stick in an Oly Arms pneumatic buffer with the original rubber bonded to the impact surface of the Oly buffer to place them in the original position but with the added cushioning of the pneumatic buffer rather than the fixed/welded wall?
That would knock a couple of inches off of the length of pull with a telestock and I could use the original CAR-15 stock nut to apply counterpressure against the turned face at the upper receiver's rear to hold it tight?
How about the forend?Are the screws that hold the forend in place going all the way through the receiver shell to the barrel block?Are they the primary screw that hold the barrel/block/recoil spring assembly in place?
Does the stretching type recoil spring anchor to the barrel block?How far from the front of the receiver does the recoil spring start?
This could a really neat project to mutate into something totally unique.
smince,you have inspired me!!
smince
Member.
The OD of the tube is equal to the CAR stock NUT, not the buffer tube. It is a smaller OD.
Assembly from the front is correct, though. And the forearm screws do hold the barrel block/barrel in place. The spring travels almost the entire length of the upper part of the tube from the front of the bolt to where the tube slants off. If you take one apart, everything must line up perfectly for proper function/headspace. Not difficult for anyone with mechanical experience, but defintely more complicated than field stripping.
It is one big rubber bumper, and not sealed. It is completely accessable from the bottom. Picture a tube with a large slot cut halfway up the body. The tube is wide enough for the frame rails to slide into position and lock with the slide stop. The cap is more just a round piece welded onto the end of the tube and is very thin.
Assembly from the front is correct, though. And the forearm screws do hold the barrel block/barrel in place. The spring travels almost the entire length of the upper part of the tube from the front of the bolt to where the tube slants off. If you take one apart, everything must line up perfectly for proper function/headspace. Not difficult for anyone with mechanical experience, but defintely more complicated than field stripping.
Flogger
Member
I am seeing this in my head and almost inspired to try to build my own modified version of it from aluminum with a lighter barrel and barrel block and the rear of the receiver terminating in a CAR buffer tube complete with spring and buffer in place of the rubber bumpers.
I think I need to buy one of these very shortly and then start fiddling with it to see how hard it would be to make a little more elegant, lighter variation on the same theme or maybe just modify the existing unit significantly.A little less overhand on the rear allowing the CAR15 buffer tube to be attached right behind the grip frame(not so close the stock would rub your hand) and trim down or lighten the barrel block and barrel to cut down on some of the prodigious weight of these things could make for a very handy,reliable 9mm carbine companion to my Glock.
Thanks for sharing your brainpower guys!!
I think I need to buy one of these very shortly and then start fiddling with it to see how hard it would be to make a little more elegant, lighter variation on the same theme or maybe just modify the existing unit significantly.A little less overhand on the rear allowing the CAR15 buffer tube to be attached right behind the grip frame(not so close the stock would rub your hand) and trim down or lighten the barrel block and barrel to cut down on some of the prodigious weight of these things could make for a very handy,reliable 9mm carbine companion to my Glock.
Thanks for sharing your brainpower guys!!
smince
Member.
Yes, I would really get one or at least look one over carefully before you start your project.
Nimble1
Member
Love It!!
I have had mine for several years and bought it in the 460 Rowland cal. It shoots both the 460 and 45 ACP. I installed a red dot sight and as someone else said..its more accurate than I am...LOL
Its great fun to shoot and never fails to draw a crowd at the range.I would love to try the 460 round on a wild hog or deer, As I recall, it let the barrel at something over 1600 fps!
I have had mine for several years and bought it in the 460 Rowland cal. It shoots both the 460 and 45 ACP. I installed a red dot sight and as someone else said..its more accurate than I am...LOL
Its great fun to shoot and never fails to draw a crowd at the range.I would love to try the 460 round on a wild hog or deer, As I recall, it let the barrel at something over 1600 fps!
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