ArchAngelCD
Member.
Have you tried a PF-9? I think you would like it much better than the P-11.
CCW handgun
- Thread starter JFtheGR8
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avan47
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My computer sent that last reply before I could finish it. It has a mind of its own sometimes. Yes I have tried the pf9 in gun shops. It has a much better trigger pull. It also has less capacity in the mag which makes it thinner, lighter, and easier to carry.
I traded my p11 in on a new S&W Shield in 40 S&W. I like it a lot. Thinner and lighter than the p11, and much better trigger. I shoot it much more accurately. My other choice would have been the Taurus Slim 740. Very similar in size and weight to the Shield, but cost $120 less. The gun shop I was in didn't have one in 40 S&W. It was available in 9mm.
If you don't reload, 9mm is cheaper to shoot than 40. If you reload, or plan to, 40 S&W brass is everywhere. It is on all the ranges where I shoot. 9mm brass and 45ACP brass is getting a lot harder to find.
I traded my p11 in on a new S&W Shield in 40 S&W. I like it a lot. Thinner and lighter than the p11, and much better trigger. I shoot it much more accurately. My other choice would have been the Taurus Slim 740. Very similar in size and weight to the Shield, but cost $120 less. The gun shop I was in didn't have one in 40 S&W. It was available in 9mm.
If you don't reload, 9mm is cheaper to shoot than 40. If you reload, or plan to, 40 S&W brass is everywhere. It is on all the ranges where I shoot. 9mm brass and 45ACP brass is getting a lot harder to find.
orionengnr
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I hope you are right, but honestly don't know of any precedent for that.
--I bought the first EMP I saw when they first came out (s/n 1073, March '06). Paid $1069, and price hasn't gone down a dime since.
--I bought an LCP when they first came out. My LGS treated me right, $255. When I sent it in for the warranty, I bought another from Bass Pro--$269. (Sold the second when I got the first back from Ruger.) They've been out a while now, and I still don't see new ones going for less than that (usually $299 or so). Note: all prices are before tax.
I usually buy lightly used guns and save ~20%. For example, I bought a year old, 200-300 round Kahr P45 for $500, and a LNIB Kahr PM45 for $450. Sold the PM45 to a friend for what I paid (same guy I sold the second LCP to). He likes both.
He is now talking about buying an XDs. American rifleman shows MSRP as $599, which means "real" retail should be between $500-525. That strikes me as being quite reasonable.
All that said, I agree with BigJimP--renting or at least handling a number of different pistols prior to buying saves a lot of time, money and frustration.
Oh, and as a former Illinois resident I am keeping an eye on the process, and I am rooting for you. When I retire (just about ten years from now, if all goes well) I'd like to be able to consider Illinois as an option. Wisconsin is officially in the running.
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Mr.510
Member
I carry an XD45 Compact every day in a Comp-Tac MTAC IWB. I like it a lot. I'm about 5'10" and 195 pounds. You mentioned it would take you a year to save up $500 to buy a more concealable pistol and that got me to thinking: Why not just grip chop your XD Service? Tons of people have done it and it's no big deal. You can buy the magazine sleeves for your 13 round mags so they still work and pick up a 10 round mag or two for carry. Springfield has been awesome about the warranties on chopped guns, even replacing damaged frames as long as the chop did not have a direct effect on the failure. A grip chopped XD45 is probably worth $50 less than a factory compact... if you ever sell it. I'm on a budget too and if I were in your shoes the solution would involve my Dremel. 
bannockburn
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I would consider the XDs and the Shield to be two good choices for CCW. You may also want to check out the Beretta Nano and the Ruger SR9c.
Lennyjoe
Member
I carry an XD-45 service model most of the time. I also have the Kel-Tec PF9 that I carry in the pocket when I'm too lazy to strap on the XD. Both are good guns and I am pretty accurate with the long pull of the Kel-Tec.
Full size guns can be carried and concealed with ease if they are in a good, quality holster. Most of us have gone through multiple holster set ups to find the one that is right for us. You'll do the same. My XD rides in a Desanti's Inner Peace holster, http://www.desantisholster.com/stor...-4/INSIDE-THE-WAIST-BAND-HOLSTERS/Inner-Piece when I wear IWB. A Don Hume belt holster for outer wear when I don't want to IWB and an overcoat is warranted due to weather.
The Kel-Tec rides in a standard pocket sleeve from Uncle Mikes.
One last thing, the length of the barrel on a full size model isn't the thing to worry about. Most printing is from the handle, so double stacked, full size handes are harder to keep from printing that smaller, single stack handles.
Just my $0.02 cents worth. Enjoy.
Full size guns can be carried and concealed with ease if they are in a good, quality holster. Most of us have gone through multiple holster set ups to find the one that is right for us. You'll do the same. My XD rides in a Desanti's Inner Peace holster, http://www.desantisholster.com/stor...-4/INSIDE-THE-WAIST-BAND-HOLSTERS/Inner-Piece when I wear IWB. A Don Hume belt holster for outer wear when I don't want to IWB and an overcoat is warranted due to weather.
The Kel-Tec rides in a standard pocket sleeve from Uncle Mikes.
One last thing, the length of the barrel on a full size model isn't the thing to worry about. Most printing is from the handle, so double stacked, full size handes are harder to keep from printing that smaller, single stack handles.
Just my $0.02 cents worth. Enjoy.
obx-shooter
Member
I've had a concealed permit for years and colleccted an assortment of nice carry pistols:S&W mdl 60, S&W 3913, Sig P230,, Sig P225, Kimber Ultra CDP, Ruger SP101 (.357), Kahr PM9. Glock 29sf... to mention a few. What I actually carry most of the time is a dinky little KelTec P32.
I mentioned this to a cop friend the other night and he laughed and pulled out his Ruger LCP. This is after he had been showing me and bragging on his Glck 26. The 26 is what he brags about...the LCP is what he actually carries...(The LCP wasn't around when I got my P32 )
I mentioned this to a cop friend the other night and he laughed and pulled out his Ruger LCP. This is after he had been showing me and bragging on his Glck 26. The 26 is what he brags about...the LCP is what he actually carries...(The LCP wasn't around when I got my P32 )
HammerheadSSN663
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I'll say it again. Sig P250 subcompact fitted with P250 compact x grip mag magazine extender. Basically a 16 9mm round 'revolver' in a semiauto frame due to DAO action. Course I'm a big fan of the DOA in semiauto.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABBR6esEQlg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QUKHgmFSpNY
NutnFancy review:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OnCxJbxlikw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABBR6esEQlg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QUKHgmFSpNY
NutnFancy review:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OnCxJbxlikw
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SouthernYankee
Member
A Thought...
Really get what you feel the most comfortable with, grip/cal./SA or DAO/metal or plastic etc., then stick with ONE style (confusion comes easy under stress) Decide how you would like to carry and find the most efficient holster for you, conceal-ability/comfort/fit/draw. You'll find this will begin to narrow down what you should be looking at, take your time and don't buy a gun until you are thoroughly comfortable with it. Then practice, practice, practice. Try your holster on in front of the mirror and for friends with different things on to find the best way to wear it and practice your draw (no one should be able to see you're carrying). Go to the range, not once but many times. I went yesterday and shot 350+ rounds in one pistol alone! train your hand and fingers so every time you grab your pistol it will be the same way, by touch. Then practice with your weak hand. As for a Brand/Model, people can only tell you what works for them but you need to find out for you (that's the hard part). I carry 1911 SA (Cocked and Locked), primary Kimber Ultra Carry .45 IWB and Sig P938 9mm B/U Pocket. Works for me but others will complain not for them, that's why you need to research carefully first because inevitably evolution purchases will occur and many guns and holsters later you'll begin to say, "This really works for me." Welcome to the journey.
Really get what you feel the most comfortable with, grip/cal./SA or DAO/metal or plastic etc., then stick with ONE style (confusion comes easy under stress) Decide how you would like to carry and find the most efficient holster for you, conceal-ability/comfort/fit/draw. You'll find this will begin to narrow down what you should be looking at, take your time and don't buy a gun until you are thoroughly comfortable with it. Then practice, practice, practice. Try your holster on in front of the mirror and for friends with different things on to find the best way to wear it and practice your draw (no one should be able to see you're carrying). Go to the range, not once but many times. I went yesterday and shot 350+ rounds in one pistol alone! train your hand and fingers so every time you grab your pistol it will be the same way, by touch. Then practice with your weak hand. As for a Brand/Model, people can only tell you what works for them but you need to find out for you (that's the hard part). I carry 1911 SA (Cocked and Locked), primary Kimber Ultra Carry .45 IWB and Sig P938 9mm B/U Pocket. Works for me but others will complain not for them, that's why you need to research carefully first because inevitably evolution purchases will occur and many guns and holsters later you'll begin to say, "This really works for me." Welcome to the journey.
colorado_handgunner
Member
Look at a Smith J-frame. You can pick up a good one used for around $300.
For semis look at a Kahr Cw9. Gas a nice slim profile for a 9mm, and a amazingly smooth double action pull.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
For semis look at a Kahr Cw9. Gas a nice slim profile for a 9mm, and a amazingly smooth double action pull.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
toivo
Member
I have mixed feelings about the PF9. Mine had to go back twice, once for a self-destructing slide and once for light-strike misfires. But now it's working perfectly. It is incredibly easy to conceal and carry, but shooting it is kind of like having firecrackers go off in your hand. (I also have a P32, which is even easier to carry, and easier to shoot too, but perhaps not everybody's idea of an effective self-defense pistol.) If you're set on a tiny 9MM, also look at Kahrs, the Beretta Nano, and the SIG 938.
I think if I were buying my first carry gun right now, I'd go for a Glock 26 or a Smith & Wesson J-frame .38: 442 or 642. Basic, effective, reliable. I shoot the Glock better than I shoot snubbies, and it holds twice as many rounds, but revolvers have their advantages too.
I think if I were buying my first carry gun right now, I'd go for a Glock 26 or a Smith & Wesson J-frame .38: 442 or 642. Basic, effective, reliable. I shoot the Glock better than I shoot snubbies, and it holds twice as many rounds, but revolvers have their advantages too.
Roadking Rider
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CM9/PM9 are very good reliable pistols. I've been CC my PM9 for a couple years now.
Beat me to it. Personally, I carry a Shield and like a single stack for EDC. EMP and Sig P938 are also nice choices.
The most reliable, concealable handgun made in a decent self-defense caliber is still a Smith and Wesson "Airweight" revolver.
Lots of younger gun toters coming into the buying market are enamored with bottom feeder "jam-o-matics" but, IMHO. . .
1. It takes much longer to master the various manual of arms for autoloading pistols . . .
2. It takes a LOT of ammo (min. of 500-1000 rounds @ $15 per box) to make sure the auto is broken in AND doesn't jam even one single time!!! Yep, $750-$1,500 worth of break in ammo!
3. It also takes a lot of practice to learn how to clear stovepipe jams and other malfunctions that come up with autoloaders . . . and just as important . . . how to instantly recognize the slide is back (or partially back) and that's why your jam-o-matic ain't firing anymore at the bad guy. I've heard a dying deputy sheriff yelling "Shoot! Shoot!" at his gun as his attacker was continuing to shoot him. The deputy had just shot his Glock 22 empty again and didn't realize instantly why it didn't shoot any more.
4. Also, lots of ammo weights a LOT! Once you load a high cap tupperware pistol the weight makes the gun + ammo weigh too much sometimes to successfully conceal and tote . . . so you leave it at home in some situations. Your CCW gun needs to always be on you, no matter how light your clothes may be.
4. A "J" frame S&W Airweight is super safe, won't jam and is the ultimate "point and click" device! Also, it doesn't require learning to manipulate a safety (an undercover cop died once, in a drug buy gone wrong, when he was discovered to be a "narc." The cop drew his cocked and locked 1911-style .45 auto, but it wouldn't shoot. After several attempts to pull the trigger, he realized he needed to wipe the safety off. However, by that time he had been shot several times. He told the story to the first responders . . .) before he died.
Yep, my bottom feeders usually reside in my safe, or become a primary sidearm BUT . . . my "always" on me, CCW handgun will always be a S&W J-frame "Airweight." You can bet your life on it, and it is small enough, concealable, and light enough to always have on you when other handguns are much too big! I can mow the grass with my J frame Airweight in my shorts pocket . . . so I DO!
Food for thought for a potential new handgunner and CCW permit hopeful from a state where your contemporaries have never been able to learn this from years of experience legally carrying concealed!
Lots of younger gun toters coming into the buying market are enamored with bottom feeder "jam-o-matics" but, IMHO. . .
1. It takes much longer to master the various manual of arms for autoloading pistols . . .
2. It takes a LOT of ammo (min. of 500-1000 rounds @ $15 per box) to make sure the auto is broken in AND doesn't jam even one single time!!! Yep, $750-$1,500 worth of break in ammo!
3. It also takes a lot of practice to learn how to clear stovepipe jams and other malfunctions that come up with autoloaders . . . and just as important . . . how to instantly recognize the slide is back (or partially back) and that's why your jam-o-matic ain't firing anymore at the bad guy. I've heard a dying deputy sheriff yelling "Shoot! Shoot!" at his gun as his attacker was continuing to shoot him. The deputy had just shot his Glock 22 empty again and didn't realize instantly why it didn't shoot any more.
4. Also, lots of ammo weights a LOT! Once you load a high cap tupperware pistol the weight makes the gun + ammo weigh too much sometimes to successfully conceal and tote . . . so you leave it at home in some situations. Your CCW gun needs to always be on you, no matter how light your clothes may be.
4. A "J" frame S&W Airweight is super safe, won't jam and is the ultimate "point and click" device! Also, it doesn't require learning to manipulate a safety (an undercover cop died once, in a drug buy gone wrong, when he was discovered to be a "narc." The cop drew his cocked and locked 1911-style .45 auto, but it wouldn't shoot. After several attempts to pull the trigger, he realized he needed to wipe the safety off. However, by that time he had been shot several times. He told the story to the first responders . . .) before he died.
Yep, my bottom feeders usually reside in my safe, or become a primary sidearm BUT . . . my "always" on me, CCW handgun will always be a S&W J-frame "Airweight." You can bet your life on it, and it is small enough, concealable, and light enough to always have on you when other handguns are much too big! I can mow the grass with my J frame Airweight in my shorts pocket . . . so I DO!
Food for thought for a potential new handgunner and CCW permit hopeful from a state where your contemporaries have never been able to learn this from years of experience legally carrying concealed!
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