Chamfering with Boatails

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When I buy new brass, this is the first step in the process before loading. Not something to dread, do it from the start and no need to wonder about it later on. Simple process, just do it.
 
It looks like everyone except MtnCreek when he volume loads his .223s, chamfers when loading boatails.

MtnCreek may have a point, so I'm going to forgo chamfering on a sample batch of what I volume load .223s for my short barrel AR.

Everything else will get a twist or two or...???

So how much reduction at the case mouth is necessary with:

1. a usual type bevel found in an RCBS chamfer tool?

2. a VLD chamfering tool as found in a Lyman tool?
 
I chamfer because otherwise my bullets get scraped during seating, which might not be a big deal, but I try to make as accurate ammo as possible. I brush the case necks, tumble the dirty brass, resize, wipe off lube, clean primer pockets, chamfer, tumble again, prime the brass, powder the brass, then seat the bullets. All these steps may not be necessary, that's just how I like to do it.
 
The tool with 6 cutters is the RCBS/L.E. Wilson tool:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/789334/le-wilson-chamfer-and-deburring-tool-17-to-45-caliber

With it you just give it 3 or 4 light twirls for chamfering, reverse and 3 or 4 light twirls for deburring. Don't try to reduce by any specific amount.
Yeah, this is what I use because I don't do 100s of cases at a time. Years ago we called these things "crickets". I just handload for hunting and weigh every charge so this is the ticket.
 
I did 500 new Starline .32 Mag brass a few weeks ago with my RCBS chamfer and deburring tool. Didn't take long at all. I doubt I'll ever have to do them again, since all the loads will be light. I have a different batch of brass for full loads.
 
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