Champion safes?

[zerobarrier]

Hello all,

I am getting ready to buy a safe. I am looking between liberty fatboy jr, liberty colonial 30, liberty Franklin 25 I think, champion collector 41, champion trophy 35, and maybe a champion triumph 30 depending on what the price is from my local gu shop since they have to order that one.

I am looking for good storage and at least 11 gauge body. I'd like to stay around $2000. The liberty fatboy jr is on sale for 1050 and the champion collector 41 for 1125.

Any advice. I'd love a sturdy or am sec bf series but can't afford 4000 on a safe.

 

[zerobarrier]

They also have a medalist 45 for 1499 and a medalist 31 for 1199. The 45 just seems really big and it's only 12ga body. I can't find any specs on the collectors series.

 

[sl33py]

we got a relatively inexpensive browning safe which i believe is rebranded from another maker. Good features and price - if you have them in your area i'd recommend checking them out.

a standout feature i'd recommend is a good door organizer. On ours we have a rifle "foot plate" at the bottom which is great for additional storage or prominence of your favorite rifle!

One other thing, having done this on mine and recently again on a friend's - don't pay the $ for their "lighting kit". As long as you have easy access to a power plug inside the safe - get a roll of the SMD LED's from Amazon. SUPER EASY and way brighter than what they will sell you.

A roll of the SMD5050 or SMD5630 are only about $10-15, a power supply (min 2-3A), and controller for a single color (motion or RF on/off recommended). The 5050 and 5630 are the latest/brightest - the 5630 claims 25 lumens per LED which is very very bright.

Here's some of the waterproof 5630 LED strip i setup on my press. I chose to solder, but you can get the easier quick connects that just snap on the cut edges so you can turn corners.


And installed in buddies' new safe:


I would recommend the non-waterproof LED's as they are *significantly* easier to connect vs scraping off the rubber/clear coating to get the contact points.

HTH and GL!