Changing over a Savage 111 to a 6.5x55

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Fixing to start what seems to be a rather easy project. I am on my way to switching out a barrel swap on my Savage 111 to a 6.5x55. I have always wanted a 6.5x55, espeically in a mauser platform. But recently I've come to the idea of doing a build-up of my own. I know that it would be easy to find a mauser or to go and buy a rifle already chambered for the 6.5 swede. But heck I have a gun store and I have access to several Savage model 111's that have been on the shelf or a box for four yrs. So i'm gonna use one of them. Thats the perps of having a gun store. Anyway I have already checked out several barrel makers and since I'm gonna use my own personal budget (budget is alittle low now since I bought myself a new toy..a Colt Commander...hmmmm) I have chosen E.R. Shaw. I'm probably not gonna have to buy any extras to do this switch as a buddy of mine had done the same thing except he went for a 338-06 so he has the tools that I dont have. Also the barrel comes with all the material, which is a good thing. Here is the list of things I've got and what I'm gonna do. Any insight for a rifle build-up virgin in the bolt-action platform, by all means voice your opinion.

1. Savage 111 package rifle in 30-06. Have checked the bolt face and the US brass fits, now I understand that European brass is .480 which would result in a bolt face replace. The box magazine accepts 6.5x55 ammo with ease. (is this correct?)
2. Ordering an E.R. Shaw barrel in contour 3 1/2 or 4. the 3 1/2 is considered a heavy varmint the 4 is a straight contour (bull barrel). Barrel will be in chrome moly polished so far in 24" with a 1:8 twist.
3. Stock, well, to fit the 4 contour with take some fitting. A little work if I kept the standard synthetic stock. Would like to find a stock comparable to the Remington ATAC(good luck right). I would like to stay with synthetic on this rifle. It will be used alot. Don't get me wrong I am a big wood fan. I would never replace my wood stocks on my Model 7 or my Winchester 54 etc.
4. Buddy has the wrench, I have the vises. Barrel comes with the rest.
5. Am I forgetting anything

Opinions please. Any knowledge would be greatful

My biggest concerns is, difficulty factor(i'm up for a challange). Heck You throw me a pistol I'm on it. An assault rifle I'm on it. A shotgun I'm on it. Never done a bolt action. Is the ER SHAW barrel what I'm looking for. Is the length of the barrel the appropriate length to basically all loads for the 6.5x55 (i do reload). I am pretty sure the 1:8 twist is correct since the European is 1:79925. Looking at a different trigger a basix, timney, jewell or maybe a accu-trigger. Also what would be better a glass bedding or pillar?

Now I have done quite few repair works on all kinds of firearms just never have switched out a barrel on a rifle or used any of the triggers listed above. I'm hoping this is an exciting new venture. Kinda when I took my Norinco 45 and made it into a limited class IPSC pistol. I know right a Norinco IPSC pistol go figure.
 
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It should be a straight forward Savage barrel swap, using a GO headspace gage to reference your new barrel and then lock the barrel nut. It doesn't get much easier than that.
You can certainly push the envelope of the upper load levels in the Savage, and not worry about limiting pressure to the old M96 Mauser levels.
You'll love the 6.5x55.



NCsmitty
 
I am of the same mind as you. I'm still looking for a 30-06 or 270 savage, 111, 114, or 116 to swap the barrel on.

From what I have found:
Caliber Bolt Face Diameter OAL
6.5x55Swede .476" 3.03"

270Win .473" 3.35

30-'06Springfield .473" 3.34"

From what I have read American made 6.5x55 brass does not require a opening the bolt face because they use a smaller diameter than European brass. Then again, I have also read of some instances wherethe bolt face didn't need opening up using European brass, I have the suspicion that the factor here is the action being used.

Given OAL the swede should fit the magazine fine. Again, from what I have read.

I'd say, if you have the rounds and the magazine, try the round and see if it fits, and how many swede rounds it will hold.

The only thing I plan on doing different is getting a barrel here:

http://www.sharpshootersupply.com/

But that is because I am interested in the Brux, or depending on the day, the Douglas barrel.

As far as stocks, I am partial to http://www.boydsgunstocks.com/default.asp
but the major influence is that they are just a bit down the road.

Keep up the posts on the progress, as soon as I find the right donor I plan on doing the same thing so I am interested in how it works out.
 
I did in fact check the bolt face the other day. I used a PMC and it fit perfectly. Checked out the magazine as well. Looks like five fit pretty dang good. And there is a little room to spare to use my reloads on the heavier grain bullets.

As for http://www.sharpshootersupply.com/. I'm actually now considering them as well. Been checking out their process and reading up on all I can about them.

The only reason I was looking at Shaw's is because of my budget. I actually have a buddy that did a barrel swap on a stevens, in which he had a 338-06 made by shaw. At first he was getting little over an inch and a half at 100, but after some tweaking of loads he got it down to about 15/16 of an inch. Of course he's looking at a dime so he's still working on loads.

I looked at the boyd stocks, but they supposedly do not make a stock for the model 111 that has the button release on the side of the stock like the one I have. I have a gunsmith that said he could probably make it happen. I do love the synthetic Boyd stock in black with tan or silver spider webbing.

Thanks for all y'alls insight. It will be used.
 
In changing an 06 barrel to 6.5 on a Ruger 77 we had no issues with the bolt face useing US or foreign brass.
 
Need a little help w/ Savage Model III, .270

This gun has a composite stock, long-action, NOT accu-triggered, and NO place for a magazine. Bolt is not "jeweled" but does have the Savage name and emblem nicely placed on the bolt. There is provision for scope-mounts on either edge of the chamber opening, but it does NOT have any provision for a front sight. Question: why does this piece have no magazine, or other bullet-feeding mechanism, and NO front sight? Is there anything special about it? Also, the front and rear scope-mounts are NOT parallel. Thanks for any help. Dao.
 
This gun has a composite stock, long-action, NOT accu-triggered, and NO place for a magazine. Bolt is not "jeweled" but does have the Savage name and emblem nicely placed on the bolt. There is provision for scope-mounts on either edge of the chamber opening, but it does NOT have any provision for a front sight. Question: why does this piece have no magazine, or other bullet-feeding mechanism, and NO front sight? Is there anything special about it? Also, the front and rear scope-mounts are NOT parallel. Thanks for any help. DaoThis model I believe came out with before the accu-trigger.
Mine is not accu-trigger either, but i'm either gonna change it over or get a bassix. These rifles are for scopes only. Mine does have the box magazine. Yours seems to be internal feed only. Now your gun has many stocks offered for it, where mine does not. Does it have a hinged plate? If the scope mounts are not parallel see about a scope ring and mount leveler and lapping. just a thought.
 
YUP!! You pegged it!

I found it strange that the scope-bases are NOT parallel. Since it will be almost a major investment in 0:00 and $$, should I set this one up for a good scope, and will it be accurate at all out to 500-600 yds.? The magazine is internal, 4+1, and has NO opening in the floor. I've never fired this piece, and I don't think anyone has. It's the only piece I have in .270. Is the Accutrigger really such a great improvement in the trigger? Is the original trigger so bad as to need replacement rather than refining? I'll think hard about making this piece my 1st-&-only, so far, .270, since it is so light and has all composite furniture. I hear good things about these models w/o accutriggers. We'll see. Dao
 
If scope bases are not parallel, you have big problems.

If the receiver bridge is lower than the receiver ring, that just means you have an older Savage and the rear base will be thicker than the front to put the scope parallel to the barrel.

It sounds like you have the rifle in hand. So you know what the trigger feels like.
 
I'm usually not all about raising the dead, but I'm about to do the same thing and was wondering how it worked out for you? I just got a 111 trophy hunter and plan on switching out the barrel for a shaw 6.5 x 55.

Thanks
 
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