I have a S&W 686+. The single action trigger pull is about 1 pound. The double action pull is about 12 pounds. Can I change the single action pull with a spring, etc. to make it a little heavier, maybe 2-3 pounds? Do changes to the double action trigger pull weight affect the single action trigger pull weight and visa versa? Thank you.
Changing trigger pull weight on S&W
- Thread starter RM
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This sounds like an unusual problem. Do you own the gun since it was new? Could be that someone has messed with the action. Check to see if the gun exhibits push-off. With the gun unloaded cock the hammer and see if you can easily apply enough pressure to the hammer to cause it to fire.
Also check to be sure that the main spring tension screw under the grip forward of the butt is screwed in all the way.
You might want to send the gun back to the factory for a checkup.
Bill
Also check to be sure that the main spring tension screw under the grip forward of the butt is screwed in all the way.
You might want to send the gun back to the factory for a checkup.
Bill
www.gunbooks.com addresses this specifically in the "S&W Revolver: A Shop Manual", by Jerry Kuhnhausen.
Invest $20 in your gun. Money well spent...
Joe
Invest $20 in your gun. Money well spent...
Joe
Standing Wolf
Member in memoriam
Yep, and buy a trigger gauge, too. A very large number of shooters can't even begin to guess trigger pulls.
Sunray
Member
Sounds like a previous owner had the SA trigger pull optimized for bullseye shooting. Like Dot_mdb says, you can try turning the strain screw, the screw on the front of the frame to adjust the trigger pull a bit. Plan 'B' would be to change the springs. However, as mentioned, guessing trigger pull isn't a good idea. One pound is too light, even for a bullseye shooter. It's unsafe.
djl4570
Member
The single action break on S&W's is often very light and crisp even out of the box. I rarely shoot my DA revolvers SA so it's never been much of a concern to me. You can lighten the DA pull by backing out the mainspring strain screw but if you back out too much it can creep on its own. I do this with all my guns but I remove the screw and clean the threads with Gunscrubber and a qtip before applying some blue loctite. It lets me adjust the double action pull and stays put afterwards.
deadin
Member
Sunray said:
Sounds like the previous owner over-optimized. Legal pull weight for bullseye is 2 1/2 lbs for centerfire and 2 lbs for .22 RF.
I would definitely have it checked out as recommended above. If it truely is 1 lb., that's getting awfully light for anything except a set trigger.
Dean
Stainz
Member
Firstly, the strain screw places the pre-load on the leaf spring. As in any spring obeying Hooke's Law, it's reaction is only linear and predictable over a certain range. The strain screw is there to assist in removing/replacing said spring and should always be fully tightened. If you want a lighter DA pull - and the lighter primer whacks that develops - change that leaf to a Wolff reduced power leaf. As the only spring you work against in SA is the trigger rebound, you might have a revolver someone has clipped a few turns off of it's rebound spring, a Rube Goldberg approach at best (Again, that linear spring rate reaction...). The spring should be full length - just change the wound wire size for a different rate - again, Wolff reduced rate springs.
I'll wager you need a stronger rebound spring - you can demonstrate this simply by noting the small return force after you pull the trigger. For competition, or just rapid follow-ups, the OEM springs higher rate is actually a 'good thing', while the reduced DA effort after changing the hammer spring to a reduced power spring will likely tie you to the lighter effort Federal primers, not a problem here, as I make my ammo.
Also - recall that all springs 'wear' - take on a 'set' as some say. You must replace magazine springs - and recoil springs in SA's - you must recall that your revolver's springs may also eventually need replacement.
Stainz
I'll wager you need a stronger rebound spring - you can demonstrate this simply by noting the small return force after you pull the trigger. For competition, or just rapid follow-ups, the OEM springs higher rate is actually a 'good thing', while the reduced DA effort after changing the hammer spring to a reduced power spring will likely tie you to the lighter effort Federal primers, not a problem here, as I make my ammo.
Also - recall that all springs 'wear' - take on a 'set' as some say. You must replace magazine springs - and recoil springs in SA's - you must recall that your revolver's springs may also eventually need replacement.
Stainz
Stainz
Member
Firstly, the strain screw places the pre-load on the leaf spring. As in any spring obeying Hooke's Law, it's reaction is only linear and predictable over a certain range. The strain screw is there to assist in removing/replacing said spring and should always be fully tightened. If you want a lighter DA pull - and the lighter primer whacks that develops - change that leaf to a Wolff reduced power leaf. As the only spring you work against in SA is the trigger rebound, you might have a revolver someone has clipped a few turns off of it's rebound spring, a Rube Goldberg approach at best (Again, that linear spring rate reaction...). The spring should be full length - just change the wound wire size for a different rate - again, Wolff reduced rate springs.
I'll wager you need a stronger rebound spring - you can demonstrate this simply by noting the small return force after you pull the trigger. For competition, or just rapid follow-ups, the OEM springs higher rate is actually a 'good thing', while the reduced DA effort after changing the hammer spring to a reduced power spring will likely tie you to the lighter effort Federal primers, not a problem here, as I make my ammo.
Also - recall that all springs 'wear' - take on a 'set' as some say. You must replace magazine springs - and recoil springs in SA's - you must recall that your revolver's springs may also eventually need replacement.
Stainz
I'll wager you need a stronger rebound spring - you can demonstrate this simply by noting the small return force after you pull the trigger. For competition, or just rapid follow-ups, the OEM springs higher rate is actually a 'good thing', while the reduced DA effort after changing the hammer spring to a reduced power spring will likely tie you to the lighter effort Federal primers, not a problem here, as I make my ammo.
Also - recall that all springs 'wear' - take on a 'set' as some say. You must replace magazine springs - and recoil springs in SA's - you must recall that your revolver's springs may also eventually need replacement.
Stainz
Thanks, gentlemen, for your excellent replies. This is a 686+ that I bought new. It has less that 1000 rounds thru it. And my trigger pull weight is just an estimate. I will check the gun over thoroughly, and perhaps have a smith look at it.
scotty
Member
I have a 686-5 plus that I bought new. The single action trigger measures 3 1/2 lbs but is so crisp that it feels much lighter than it really is. This may be what you are experiencing. The trigger finger scale is not always accurate. Double check with an unbiased non-human scale.
mitchshrader
Member
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- Jun 2, 2005
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yes.
it's hideously easier to make rational comments with facts as a basis..
guesstimates are fine for bar bets, but don't work exceptionally well for firearms. IMO, of course.
it's hideously easier to make rational comments with facts as a basis..
guesstimates are fine for bar bets, but don't work exceptionally well for firearms. IMO, of course.
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