Charles Daly hammer and strut replacement issue

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daniel craig

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So the hammer strut and strut pin I had purchased from Numrich gun parts (they shipped fast btw) came in the mail. I decided to install this new hammer on the Charles Daly because the ring hammer kept biting me.

So I did the installation put the gun back together (presumably courtly, I watched a few videos).

Now, when I pull the slide back…If I release the slide using the slide stop, the hammer comes forward. It’s not all the way forward though, it seems to be stopping that the…best way I can describe is the first click when you pull the hammer back manually. I’ve attached a link to the video and pic of what I’m talking about.

I’m pretty sure this isn’t supposed to happen because it didn’t happen when I had my ring hammer and it’s strut in the gun (and before you ask why I didn’t just the same strut it’s because I couldn’t get the pin out).

Any idea what’s up here?


Video: https://imgur.com/a/R26ASp8

pic: 8AD1E9FD-4F3E-4D04-83ED-7308784D9483.jpeg



Edit. I think I figured it out. Look at this picture. The bottom hammer is the original, the top is the replacement.


235CA0F7-E96C-4401-BFF4-F04D28450A1E.jpeg
 
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Yes. You tried to 'plug and play' with 1911 fire control parts. 99.9999999%ofthe time, it leads to something like what you experienced. Take your old hammer and strut. Put the hammer into the vise, and pop the link out with a punch. Now do the same to the new one. Put the old strut on the new hammer, install it and function test it again. If it still does it, find a qualified 1911 smith.
At least you had the wisdom to function check it. Some who have not ended up with a wild ride trying to keep from shooting holes in their surroundings when it full-auto mag dumped.
 
Yes. You tried to 'plug and play' with 1911 fire control parts. 99.9999999%.



Psssssst... Its a BHP





OP you might want to go back to the original set up... CD's are pretty low on the quality scale and you may be tolerance stacking the hammer/sear fit.
 
Yes. You tried to 'plug and play' with 1911 fire control parts. 99.9999999%ofthe time, it leads to something like what you experienced. Take your old hammer and strut. Put the hammer into the vise, and pop the link out with a punch. Now do the same to the new one. Put the old strut on the new hammer, install it and function test it again. If it still does it, find a qualified 1911 smith.
At least you had the wisdom to function check it. Some who have not ended up with a wild ride trying to keep from shooting holes in their surroundings when it full-auto mag dumped.
Function checks after reassembly are a force of habit now.
 
The hammer is bouncing off the sear and falling to half cock. This indicates that either the full cock notch on the hammer is not cut right (which I highly doubt), or you damaged the sear's primary angle during improper disassembly (very likely) - like, you released the hammer to fall when the slide was off the frame. Now, you have a damaged sear which gets more damage every time the hammer falls to half cock - go see a qualified gunsmith to correct the sear angles. Unless you know exactly what you are doing (again, I highly doubt that from reading you describing the problem), I would suggest to not attempt this repair by yourself. A simple swap to the old ring hammer will not correct the problem - sear is already damaged, don't waste your time.

P.S. The hammer strut is fine and it's not contributing to the problem in any way.
 
Psssssst... Its a BHP





OP you might want to go back to the original set up... CD's are pretty low on the quality scale and you may be tolerance stacking the hammer/sear fit.

:oops: Oops! Well, 1911's have loop hammers, too. ;) Still, as Mizar suggests, sometimes BHP parts need to be fitted also.
 
The hammer is bouncing off the sear and falling to half cock. This indicates that either the full cock notch on the hammer is not cut right (which I highly doubt), or you damaged the sear's primary angle during improper disassembly (very likely) - like, you released the hammer to fall when the slide was off the frame. Now, you have a damaged sear which gets more damage every time the hammer falls to half cock - go see a qualified gunsmith to correct the sear angles. Unless you know exactly what you are doing (again, I highly doubt that from reading you describing the problem), I would suggest to not attempt this repair by yourself. A simple swap to the old ring hammer will not correct the problem - sear is already damaged, don't waste your time.

P.S. The hammer strut is fine and it's not contributing to the problem in any way.
While I appreciate your advice it works just fine with the original strut, hammer and sear so I don’t really think any one of those is the issue.
 
While I appreciate your confidence, have a gunsmith to check the angles - from that slapping to half cock the sear's primary angle gets beaten badly and, soon or later, this will lead to hammer follow. The hammer is not supposed to fall on half cock during normal operation - it's a last ditch safety feature indicating that your gun needs attention ASAP. BTW, different position of half cock notches on both hammers means nothing - if the hammer can be cocked via racking the slide, then the full cock notch on that hammer (the lower one, that is not captive) is correctly cut. Go see a gunsmith.
 
Who made the hammer strut and what weight spring are you using on the new one?

CD BHPs are assembled using FEG parts. They are not bad clones.
 
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