Cheap 410 reloading

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I haven't really done this yet, but I'm looking to get into .410 reloading to save money and maybe try some new stuff. I'm experienced in metallic reloading and reloading 12 gauge shells, but I can't justify spending nearly $200 on a MEC 600 press. Metallic equipment is so easy and cheap, why isn't there a die set for .410 that I can put in my single stage Lee? Why doesn't Lee make a Load-All in .410 instead of just 12, 20, and 16 gauges? :cuss:

So, do any of you have a source for cheap .410 dies or presses?
 
I made my own Lee "type" loader for the .410.
I used 1/8 metal pipe for the die "body".
I used 3/8" hardwood dowel cut to ~3" with a metal pin for the primer punch. I used a 3/8" id piece of pvc pipe for the priming punch and use a plastic mallet with the primer against the top of my loading press to seat the primers.

I made a crimper with a brass nipple on a piece of threaded pipe, but it dosen't do a real good job.
I prefer to use paper/card wads I punch using my Lee .452" sizer die and base punch as an over-shot wad. This pushed into place with the 3/8" wooden dowel works real well and for "hunting" loads patterns acceptably. I really can't tell the difference, but I'm sure that if I shot enough on a patterning board I could.....

I've used both H110 and #2400 with good results. I use a PC copy of the Winchester wad, and prefer the Win. AA hulls. Do use published data....
I'm shooting them through a .410 over/under so sizing hasn't been a problem as long as I use hulls shot first through my gun....

I've picked up a couple MEC #650 Jr. presses at flea markets. I'm eventually going to get both 28gr and .410 die sets, but so far haven't as I don't shoot enough shotgun anymore to justify the expense.

I do have an old Lee 28ga loader, so I know they once made those... It probably dates to the '60's like the one I was given for my 14th birthday in 1970...... for the 20ga.
 
Check around your local gun clubs-- used 600jrs change hands for $50-$75 all the time.
 
Yep I reload the 444 Marlin brass using Lee 444Marlin dies on my regular press but can't use regular plastic wads or hulls for this . You have to use the correct sized nitro cards and felt or cork wads with slightly modified loads and they work well when assembled the way the old timers reloaded their brass hulls. Supplies and info can be had from Ballistic Products. You can even buy longer brass shot-shells from Magtech that will work but they do not fit the 444 dies or shell-holder so I did not go that route.
 
Not particularly interested in brass. When I first bought my .410, I bought a bunch of plastic shells. I'd like to RE-load not buy more stuff, if possible. Anyway, the brass looks fun just for an experiment, so thanks for the link. :)

GooseGestapo, do you have a pic laying around of your homemade die?
 
I also made a kit. I took a peice of metal and drilled a hole in it for the correct diameter to size the hull. I st it on a peice of 1/2" ridgid conduit so as to not damage the hull. Then I took a door hinge and use that as a deprimer. For seating the primer, I took a small screwdriver type socket that you put inside the hull and seat the primer while the primer sits on a bench, etc. Then for crimping, go to prescision reloading and get one of their roll crimpers. By far the best I have found. You'll have shells that look just like factpry loads, and probably shoot better, because you can get more shot in them with a roll crimp.

There is also a kit out there sold by Lanes on e-bay that looks almost identiacl to the lee loader for about $30.
 
Buy a used MEC for 50 bucks - if it isn't in 410, buy a used conversion kit for about another 50 or less

Why doesn't Lee make a Load-All in .410 instead of just 12, 20, and 16 gauges?

Because that POS won't handle the small bores well, it doesn't handle the large bores well either

Do not try to compare shotgun reloading to metallic - that's comparing sweet potatoes to watermelons
 
oneounceload - I've reloaded probably close to a thousand 12 gauge shells. My daily reloading unit is an old Pacific DL-105, and it works just fine. I know .410 will be harder because of its smaller size, but I honestly don't see shotshell reloading as being THAT different from metallic.

Curious to see what other people have done with the hand-made route.
 
About a year ago I ran onto a 410 600 Jr on Craigs List for $65. Came with 500 AA hulls and 500 AA wads.
Wish I had a 410 shotgun.:D
 
I keep seeing posts that there are Mec 410 reloaders all over for $50, but to tell the truth, I have yet to find one. I wish I could!
 
There's 5 MEC .410 loaders on eBay right now. One's at $25 with no bids.

I load .410's. The beauty of loading them is unlike most other shotshells, you can save an enormous amount of money on .410's.
 
Just checked eBay bids are now in the $75 to $100 range. If anyone has a good 600jr they want to sell in the $50.00 ;) send a pm....james
 
I keep seeing posts that there are Mec 410 reloaders all over for $50, but to tell the truth, I have yet to find one. I wish I could!

Check Craigs List and your local club bulletin board - that's where I am seeing them go for 50-75 bucks all the time. Also look at garage sale ads
 
but I honestly don't see shotshell reloading as being THAT different from metallic.

In metallic, any case in the same cartridge size is typically just fine to mix and match - in shotgun there several forms of hulls and they cannot (successfully or safely) be treated that way.

In metallic, a lot of time can be spent in "case preparation'/cleaning. In shotgun, there isn't any.

In metallic, one is advised to "work up" to a load and watch for certain pressure signs. In shotgun, you follow the established recipe.

In metallic (say small pistol) using any brand of primer is considered ok to do. In shotgun, different primers have enough different characteristics, that it is not always safe or prudent to do so.

In metallic, your projectile is a constant, known weight. In shotgun, it is a variable (shot not slug).

In metallic, a variation in powder drop of .5 or more can be considered unsafe (especially in small pistol), and will result in poor accuracy. In shotgun, it is not.

Those are the most common ones I can think of. While some aren't as big a deal as others, some can be different enough to make safety considerations a little more important to watch.
 
50 bucks for MECH JR, bit Optimistic, might luck into one at those prices, but in no way is it a general thing.
 
I have purchased 2 in the last three years to save me the need of changing dies. Both in the $70-$80 range with shipping IIRC. Heck I had an older Texan set up for 12 GA given to me recently, along with 500 Alcan primers and around 15 LBS shot.:D
 
Just buy a roll crimp tool from BPI. Push down on the wad with a dowel to get some wad pressure, and roll crimp it. Simple enough.
 
I agree with crazyjennyblack - why the hell is there no regular 7/8" die set available to load .410?!
 
You would also need to be able to reprime with a 209, drop powder, insert a wad and then pre crimp and crimp - what the MEC does
A full set of dies to do that would cost more than the MEC
 
Well at least with using the 444 Marlin brass or the Magtech brass hulls the standard press can be used to deprime/prime them. With the 409's you can't do that either. Also if you know someone with a lathe you could enlarge a 444 Marlin sizing die for .410 duty. Also could make the seating die into a roll crimp die for brass hulls I would think. The reason nobody makes dies is lack of demand at the present time IMHO. RCBS makes them for 12 GA now for CAS. If everybody that waned them were to email RCBS asking for 20 GA and .410 dies they might be persuaded to make a run of them for the CAS shooters. It never hurts to try and if enough users do it the other players might make dies also. I am thinking that an email to Lee would get the ball rolling on some options.:evil:
 
You can easily de-prime with a door hinge. Use a Lee dipper to charge, seat the wad with a dowel, and fill with shot with an adjustable dipper. For seating the primer, set the primer face up, and then use a small socket and seat it on a clean surface by tappin on the socket. And as said above, roll crimpling with a prescision reloading roll crimper will finish it all off. I personally resize the brass head with a sizing die I made out of metal drilled to the rigt diameter.

Just think what you are out to do. It's not rocket science. If I did not want to make a kit, I would just by one from Lanes reloading for $35.00.

I've been purposely looking for the $50 used MECs, but in my neck of the woods they are not around and on e-bay, they typically run $100 or more.
 
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