Checkering question

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LSCurrier

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I have a stainless SA Loaded 1911 that I am going to send in for checkering of the frontstrap and the MSH. I am wondering if anyone has an opinion of what checkering is best - 20LPI, 25LPI, or 30LPI?

This gun is currently a range gun and will one day evolve into a carry gun when I am able to leave New York for a state where people actually have rights and can use them.

Any input is appreciated.

Luke
 
Strictly a range gun, and you have hands that do rough work? Go with the 20 lpi.
Mixed use, the 25 seems like a nice compromise.
Concealed carry, 30 lpi is the hot ticket.

I prefer 20 lpi, and back when I was checkering I was about this close to doing a grip frame in 18 lpi by buying a 2-line 18lpi file from Brownells. I also like the Jim Clark Tigertooth (?) stippling.

These days, I would just use skateboard tape and call it a day, unless the gun was for "show".
 
I have checkerd many guns, and prefer the 30 LPI. 20 is too coars and brash looking, 25 may be OK, but 30 is the ticket..if it is done right, it will stick in your hand nice, even if u have oil on them or water.....

Where ya sending it to>??
 
Where am I sending it to?

I'm going to send it to Gemini Customs. I have reviewed their website and he does nice work. I have a Ruger SP101 that I am going to send to him also to have his package deal done to it - except for the barrel porting and hammer bob,

I can't wait to send them in. Problem is that I am single income for the moment as my wife is a substitute teacher and she is not bringing in money at the moment.

I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas with my wait for the right time to send them to have the work done.

Luke
 
20 lpi but FLAT topped .Excellent grip without tearing clothes etc.I put that on all my pistols ....Lots of us have carry permits in NY state !
 
Mete,

You indicated that lots of people have concealed carry license. You are right about this, but I would bet 95+ percent of thoses people live upstate and not in the counties of Suffolk, Nassau, Westchester or any of the NYC borroughs (Brooklyn, Queens, Bronx, Manhattan, or Staten Island). In any of the areas that I noted it is near impossible to get a concealed carry license - unless of course you are politically connected in some way.

This amazes me because NY has taken the stance that it is not the responsibility of the police department to protect us. But, NY makes it near impossible to protect ourselves because we are not legally allowed to carry a gun - at least this is true for those of us that live in the areas I noted previously.

I love this state, but feel that the politicians have raped us and I see no way to make things better because the people of this state keep voting in a Demacrat majority that continually wants to put more and more laws in place restricting our rights. It is time to vote out all incumbents and tel the next bunch "DO A BETTER JOB!!".

Until things get better or I have the opportunity to go elsewhere I am stuck with what I have.

By the way, congrats to you if you have you concealed carry license. I wish I had one that was legal in NY.

Luke
 
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Exactly how hard is checkering to do assuming one is quite proficient with files, stones, and other hand tools in general? Is there a "kit" that I can get from Brownell's with everything I need--jig, files, etc.? I am just wondering if I want to save myself a few hundred dollars or if it is not worth the hassle. I have 2 steel frames and one aluminum that needs to be done.

Greg
 
Checkering is not super hard to do right, but IS super easy to do wrong.

If you are at all unsure about your abilities to pull it off, try to checker a piece of steel tubing. Rate yourself on straightness, points, and cleanup.
Remember that you'll have to blend the cleanup areas around the checkering into the rest of the finish.

Its a big project if youre unprepared, but give the pipe a try and think about it. Ive checkered about 50 grip frames and theres about 2 I wish I had back.
 
Well said! I have only done a couple of front straps and they came out pretty good. You can buy the file of your choice from Brownells and then you need something to guide your starter lines. I think Power Custom sells the one I use. Many guys just use a piece of angle iron to start the verticals. Once you have your starter lines going, you don't use the jig anymore. It takes a lot of time, 8-10 hours including clean-up for a front strap and I would do 2-3 hours at a time. It is also beneficial to have a loop or magnifying lamp to check your work close up. You need to be able to look straight down on your work to be sure your lines are cutting straight.

Here is a Makarov I did. It still needed a little pointing up and some clean-up. The 2nd pic is a Kimber I did. Both are 25 LPI.

IMG_1473_edited.jpg
03986c82.jpg
 
The pointing up he refers to is the riffling of the rows to sharpen the tips of the diamonds. Use Dykem or the big magic markers to give some contrast so you can see what youre doing.My eyes arent what they were in my 20's.

You seem to checker about as fast, or slow, I guess, as I did. I read somewhere that Ed Brown had a checkerer on staff that could checker 2 guns a day at 30 lpi if someone else did the cleanup. No fun after a while, thats for sure.
 
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