Chor Boy? I've never used a lead remover

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Shivahasagun

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I noticed I have some lead in my new model Colt King Cobra.

I'm not sure what caused it because I was firing two loads but I suspect it was my mild .38 Colt Short loads

The load is 2.7 gr Titegroup loaded long (1.15 IIRC) with 158 gr flat-nosed .358 bulets that I think are too hard loaded too light. BH 18. Or maybe it's the lube, I dunno. They are from Missouri Bullet Co.

I think these particular bullets are for lever .357's, not the mild push I'm giving them.

Anyway I have some material in the bore that doesn't brush out with Ballistol so I think I need to use lead remover.

I read Chor Boy is popular.

Is that okay with my stainless revolver? Anything else I need to know?

I wear eye protection & Nitrile gloves when i clean guns.
 
I've got some of the LeadOut cloth material... I think it's Birchwood Casey, or something similar. It really does work... but follow the directions. It needs to have a tight fit... tight enough you might need some persuasion (dead blow hammer, rubber mallet, etc...) to drive the rod all the way through.
 
I finally found some Birchwood Casey Lead remover cloth! Found it last year at a LGS. It cleaned the face of my .45LC cylinder great! Been using it ever since.
 
That sounds like a good product!

Perhaps one could cut some material from the cloth so it goes through the bore a little easier?
 
I have used copper chore boy wrapped around an old brush to scrub lead out. Maybe it's me but I didn't find it all that effective. I'd try the lead remover cloth mentioned above if you can find some.
 
A few strands of Chore-Boy wrapped around a brass bore brush will get the job done quickly and won't harm the barrel.
Just make sure you use the COPPER Chore-Boy and not the copper covered stainless off brand.....
That’s what I have used, I don’t know how it could work any better.
I have a Lewis Lead Remover but don’t use it because chore boy works better.
 
I prefer mechanical means of a copper Chore Boy. There are chemical products that do work but are much more expensive. When casting and your not paying attention and you cut the sprue way to early you get a wonderful lead smear on top of the mold and the bottom of the sprue plate. Couple of seconds with a Chore Boy and your right back in business. Plain old mineral spirits in the bore or cylinder and a few strokes of a brush wrapped in Chore Boy and its done. A tighter fit cleans faster....
 
The effectiveness of Chore Boy will vary depending on how much lead and how long the carbon/lead has been in your barrel. If carbon has hardened on top of the lead, you might have to have a couple extra goes at it before it comes clean. It will work though. I just cleaned a .32 magnum that I had shot with cast last year, and let it stay in for almost a year. It took three runs with Chore boy wrapped around a bore brush and a patch oiled with 3-in-1 oil in between each run. It cleaned up as slick and shiny as new. Cleaning doesn't have to be fancy. Sometimes old tricks work just fine.
 
I've only used Chore Boy in really bad leading, or a Lewis Lead Remover. Often a good soaking with Kroil will help loosen any lead in the barrel and make removal easier, sometime just a tight patch will do. But a warning, do not use peroxide and vinegar mix to remove barrel leading. Instructions for use have to be followed and used sparingly. Bore pitting can result if left in the barrel too long BTDT! Best is to properly size the cast bullets to stop leading before it happens...
 
Chore Boy, Lewis, and similar work quite well. I personally have gone to 0000 steel wool, which draws gasps of horror from some folks but has never caused me any trouble.

Any of those need to be pretty tight in the bore to work. Chances are that if you aren't having success, you need a tighter fit. Sometimes I can actually feel, through the cleaning rod, the lead being ripped out of the bore.

The chemicals also work well too, but need time, and I am often too impatient.

I've had poor results with lead cloths except in the case of very mild leading. They are good for removing a slight "wash" of lead, but if you've got lumps and bumps, the lead cloth will take forever and a day. They are much more effective at removing bluing, in my experience...
 
Thanks!

I don't think I can get a good picture down the bore. It doesn't look bad to me. A couple thin, one inch streaks.
 
Thanks!

I don't think I can get a good picture down the bore. It doesn't look bad to me. A couple thin, one inch streaks.

Are they near the muzzle? That would indicate that the bullet isn't carrying enough lube. If they are near the forcing cone you likely have bullets that are either too hard or not being driven fast enough. (Looking at your OP I see you already have an idea, and I think you are probably right. BHN 18 is too hard for almost everything, in my book, and need to be whacked pretty hard to work well.)
 
Don’t use LeadAway cloth, it contains aluminum oxide which is an abrasive.
And be careful when choosing the ChoreBoy scouring pad…make sure its 100% copper and not simply the copper plated look-a-like.
An effective old-school removal of lead is with mercury but it’s also the most toxic and hazardous of any other method.
 
I noticed I have some lead in my new model Colt King Cobra.

I'm not sure what caused it because I was firing two loads but I suspect it was my mild .38 Colt Short loads

The load is 2.7 gr Titegroup loaded long (1.15 IIRC) with 158 gr flat-nosed .358 bulets that I think are too hard loaded too light. BH 18. Or maybe it's the lube, I dunno. They are from Missouri Bullet Co.

I think these particular bullets are for lever .357's, not the mild push I'm giving them.

Anyway I have some material in the bore that doesn't brush out with Ballistol so I think I need to use lead remover.

I read Chor Boy is popular.

Is that okay with my stainless revolver? Anything else I need to know?

I wear eye protection & Nitrile gloves when i clean guns.

If you use MBC polymer coated bullets (or any others) you will not have issues with leading
 
I've only used Chore Boy in really bad leading, or a Lewis Lead Remover. Often a good soaking with Kroil will help loosen any lead in the barrel and make removal easier, sometime just a tight patch will do. But a warning, do not use peroxide and vinegar mix to remove barrel leading. Instructions for use have to be followed and used sparingly. Bore pitting can result if left in the barrel too long BTDT! Best is to properly size the cast bullets to stop leading before it happens...
I tried the chore boy on with good results in decent barrels.
I use the peroxide& vinegar mix in Mil-Surps that already have terrible bores.
I agree. Keep it away from a newer gun.
 
Are they near the muzzle? That would indicate that the bullet isn't carrying enough lube. If they are near the forcing cone you likely have bullets that are either too hard or not being driven fast enough. (Looking at your OP I see you already have an idea, and I think you are probably right. BHN 18 is too hard for almost everything, in my book, and need to be whacked pretty hard to work well.)

It's only a 3 inch barrel and they are pretty much in the center.

I only have 200 of those bullets remaining so I'll load them over a .38 Spl. case and +p charge.
 
I like Shooter’s Choice lead remover. It takes time but as long as you follow directions it works very well and is inexpensive.
 
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