Christmas Chronograph & 9mm Loads

[nevadabob]

Since I got a Pro Chrono for Christmas, I thought I'd share my 9 mm load results. I use the Lee Pro Auto Disk. My main reason for getting the chrono was to see how fast I was pushing the plated bullets.

A#5, auto disk #37, 5.6 gr.,0.357 124 gr. LRN, COL 1.100 via M&P FS = 981 fps

Titegroup, auto disk #34, 3.9 gr., 0.357 124 gr. LRN, COL 1.100 via M&P FS = 1079 fps

Win 231, auto disk #40, 4.2 gr., 0.356 125 gr. LRN, COL 1.200 via SD9VE = 1069 fps

Win 231, auto disk #46, 4.8 gr., 0.356 115 gr. plated Berry's RN, COL 1.135 via SD9VE = 1116 fps

Win 231, auto disk #43, 4.5 gr., 0.356 115 gr. plated Berry's RN, COL 1.135 via SD9VE = 1059 fps

A#5, auto disk #40, 6.1 gr., 0.356 115 gr. plated Berry's RN, COL 1.135 via SD9VE = 1116 fps

Titegroup, auto disk #37, 4.2 gr., 0.356 115 gr. plated Berry's RN, COL 1.135 via SD9VE = 1078 fps.

The above loads provide good accuracy, manageable recoil, and a clean barrel. The COL's are based upon plunk test measurements. The 124 LRN bullet has no shoulder or step while the 125 LRN has the shoulder or step. Please note the two "1116's" above are not typo's.

 

[rsrocket1]

Congrats.
Tips:
Bring along a .22, BB gun, airsoft gun to check your setup and ensure you are getting good readings before using your precious test rounds to debug the setup.

Measure and double check the actual paths of the bullets. I shoot everything from a rest including pistol and shotgun. The last thing I need is a flinch that blasts the chrono.

If using a scope, take the scope height above the muzzle into consideration
It's a good idea to set up the *unloaded* gun in a vice and look from the chrono back down the barrel.

Use wooden dowels or something similar instead of metal rods to support the skyscreens, when you shoot them, the wood easily snaps off and can be replaced rather than having bent metal rods or parts break off the base unit. I use chopsticks glued together. Here's a picture when a muzzleloader sabot petal hit the skyscreen rod. The bullet hit the bullseye and I got a good reading, but the sabot veered off not too far from the muzzle. No harm to the chrony and I simply pulled out a replacement from my chrony bag.

 

[1SOW]

Bob, I recommend always using a target much closer to and level with the chrono for speed checks only . Check your group sizes elsewhere.
Using a target every time will help prevent shooting your chrono. It's always "OPEN SEASON" for chronos.


With the Pro-Chrono, make sure your shooting 'level' across the chrono. Angles up or down give false readings. Mine doesn't like LOW sunlight: early morning or later afternnoon/evening suns Cloudy/overcast days work GREAT with no screens.

With the Pro-Chrono Digital, wooden dowells of the right size fit the holes perfectly.
Can't remember the size for sure because I bought them several years ago, but I think it was 1/4".

Mark the rods with colored tape or paint for minimum and maximum bullet path height above the sensor screens to help ensure accurate data.

It's great reloading tool. Enjoy..

 

[nevadabob]

Thanks for the wooden dowel & the bright tape tip guys. My target was fairly close, about 5' behind the chrono and my pistol rest 10' in front. In setup, I used a line level/string from the rest to the bullseye to make sure it was lined up properly.

 

[Bailey Boat]

The dowel size is 1/8". Use a Sharpie marker on the dowel instead of tape. A 12" torpedo level makes sure the chrono is level.

 

[celem]

Nevadabob - interesting. Unfortunately for me we aren't using the same powders. I have considered getting a chrony but haven't taken the plunge yet.

 

[glockky]

I didn't know all of this was necessary to get accurate readings from a chronograph

 

[Milkmaster]

Just something I found out that works for me...

A laser bore line up site makes a great way to see if your barrel is pointed through the chrono exactly where you want it. Stick the laser in the end of the barrel and use a piece of paper on the other side of the chrono.