Chronograph options, how to use them?

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Covelo-NdN

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Hi Forum,

Can you please explain how to use a chronograph? do I shoot through the "V" or over it?

I recently purchased a Leupold VX-3 CDS Scope and custom turret requires that provide load data.

Im a new reloader and want to start seeing how fast my loads are so I will purchase a chrono this year. I see midway sells a "KIT" Ill provide a link.

please any info would be appreciated, as i have "NO" experience with these systems. thanks.

http://www.midwayusa.com/find?dimensionids=4023
 
You shoot through the V.

The curved sky screens on top are supported by the V wire legs.

The bullet speed is measured by the sky screens as the bullet passes under them.

rc
 
Here is a pic of my chrono set up to shoot a target (Chrono at five yards and target at seven yards.) and get numbers at the same time. Setting it up with a target gives you an aiming point which helps you focus on the center of the "V" and put the bullet in relatively the same spot each time. You don't have to do it that way, but I like getting an idea on accuracy at the same time, and it definitely helps you focus on keeping the bullet in the middle of things. This setup up was for pistol, but it works the same way for rifle, you just have the target farther out.

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The light sensors are at the bottom of the " V " ... so you'd aim so the bullet pass between the top light diffusers of the " V" and and light sensor at the bottom ... the area with-in the " V " is the "active" area ...
 
OK thank you. Another question, would I be looking for accuracy at the same time as measuring bullet speed?

I mean im not going to set up my chrono at 100 yards and then shoot am I?

if shooting a rifle?

How will I know the speed at the distances will impact game? deer at 100 yards?

Deer at 200 yards? etc. would this all be determined with a chrono as well?

Am I way off track here? am I just measusring the speed the bullet leaves the muzzle with a chrono?
 
Just the speed in front of the muzzle.
Your crono instructions will tell you the recommended distance to set the sky screens.

Once you know the muzzle velocity?

Go to the reloading manual of the bullet you are using, then go to the ballistic tables in the back of the book, find the tables for the bullet you are using, and plug in the velocity you are getting.

The tables will tell you the velocity at longer ranges.

There are also ballistic programs you can plug in the Ballistic Coefficient of the bullet you are using, and the velocity, and it does the same thing.

Don't try to shoot through the Crono at 100 - 200 yards or you will be buying a lot of new chronographs!! :D

rc
 
I would suggest to not shoot into the bottom part of the V, that may just be me but they will catch the shadow of the bullet that high and I have never shot one of my chronographs.

Remember your optic is above your barrel, at the range you chronograph the bullet will always be below the point of your crosshairs.

Your 2nd question, once you have a muzzle velocity, you take that information, bullet weight, ballistic coefficient and sight height, input them into a ballistic program and it will plot your trajectory, velocity and bullet drop at other distances.
 
I set my chrono at 5 yards for pistol or rifle. That is far enough from the muzzle to keep muzzle blast from giving chrono errors.

As rcmodel posted, once you have the "muzzle" velocity, you can use a chart to figure other yardages. there is no law that says you can't set the chrono at 100 yards to get the velocity, but the margin for error on shooting the chrono goes way down.

I like to shoot for accuracy with pistols when I chrono. That gives me some numbers and an idea if I should pursue that load any more. After I have it tweaked like that, I shoot it at longer distances to be sure about the accuracy.

A lot of people don't. Doesn't matter either way. It's personal preference.
 
The bullet speed is measured by the sky screens as the bullet passes under them.

Actually the sensors are in the bottom at each end. The sky filters are just diffusers to even out the sun and clouds in a sunny day. You don't even have to use them on a cloudy day.
 
Well as can be seen by your link, no shortage of chronographs out there. They all do the same thing as far as telling you how fast those bullets are zipping along. Beyond velocity they become a matter of features. A basic chronograph displays velocity and a chronograph packed with features can interface with a laptop (or other) computer and include a full ballistics lab of software.

Walkalong posted an excellent image of the setup and everyone explained how you shoot over the sensors through what we call the screens or technically speaking the triangular gizmos. :)

Before settling on a specific make and model you need to decide which features you feel would benefit you. Also which design in that some include the display with the sensors and others cable to a display which can be on the bench beside you and your rifle.

In summary, the chronograph is a cool tool. :)

Ron
 
Here's the Chrono that I have. Most will tell you it's a great chrono. I do shoot for accuracy while using my chrono. It take a little fine tuning of the height of the Chrono to make sure the target is between the V and not too low. To be honest, I usually find myself shooting through a chrono every time I carry my rifles to the range. It gives me a chance how my loads react to different temps. I keep a log book with that data.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/85...rono-digital-chronograph?cm_vc=ProductFinding
 
One last thing to know is the the bullet needs to travelling "LEVEL/Parallel" to the top of the chrono. Your shooting position and chrono "HEIGHT" has to be close to parallel. Same thing is true concerning the angle the bullet travels over the sensors. The bullet need to be aligned/shot so the bullet travels the "shortest distance" from sensor to sensor.

With a bad angle in either plane, the distance from sensor to sensor changes which screws up your readings noticeably.

Hope this makes sense.
 
I put electrical tape on the wires on each side about midway up. That way when I'm sighting in on the target I can see if I'm too low and getting too close to the chronograph with the bullets.
 
I use a pact-pro XP, it has all the info in it for bullet drop and a print out, no need to run it through your home PC, but you can if you want , the reason I went with the Pact is because the eyes are the only thing out in front of your muzzle , so if you shoot low you are only out $15 -$20 , screens are a bit less, but on a cloudy day you don't need the screens any way , so I don't use them unless it is sunny , why shoot something you didn't need out in the first place .



PS. MADE IN USA !




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One last thing to know is the the bullet needs to travelling "LEVEL/Parallel" to the top of the chrono. Your shooting position and chrono "HEIGHT" has to be close to parallel. Same thing is true concerning the angle the bullet travels over the sensors. The bullet need to be aligned/shot so the bullet travels the "shortest distance" from sensor to sensor.

With a bad angle in either plane, the distance from sensor to sensor changes which screws up your readings noticeably.

Hope this makes sense.
All very true.

The more consistently straight through the chrono the bullet goes, the more accurate the readings. Line the bullet path up carefully on both vertical and horizontal planes through the chrono, as well as having the chrono level side to side.
 
One last thing to know is the the bullet needs to travelling "LEVEL/Parallel" to the top of the chrono. Your shooting position and chrono "HEIGHT" has to be close to parallel. Same thing is true concerning the angle the bullet travels over the sensors. The bullet need to be aligned/shot so the bullet travels the "shortest distance" from sensor to sensor.

With a bad angle in either plane, the distance from sensor to sensor changes which screws up your readings noticeably.

Hope this makes sense.

Yeah, figure it this way. Velocity = Distance / Time and the chronograph assumes the distance to be a fixed distance, be it one foot, two feet or whatever it assumes a fixed distance. If we assume a 2 foot distance that is off by as little as 0.1" you induce a heck of an error.

A bullet traveling 2700 FPS will travel 2 feet in about 0.0007407 second or about 740.7 uS. Simply because 2700 = 2 / .0007407. Again the chronograph assumes a distance of exactly 2 Feet so anything other than 2 feet spacing of the screens results in an error. Additionally if the bullet path isn't straight and angled the bullet will not have traveled the prescribed 2 Feet.

When the bullet passes the first sensor the chronograph opens a gate and begins counting clock pulses, when the bullet passes the second sensor the gate closes. The counted clock pulses are a measure of time, the time it took for the bullet to travel 2 Feet in this example.

Additionally the following is from our friends at CED Chronograph but can be applied to other chronographs as well:
Variables that will effect results are as follows:
1. Temperature, altitude, & the effects these have on different powders.
2. Temperature of the barrel and the ammunition itself. a cold barrel will produce different results from a very hot one. The same with the ammunition.
3. Lighting - MUST be balanced on both sensors evenly. If the sun changes position, you must maintain a balanced condition on both sensors. Whether in bright sunlight (using the top screens) or on shady days (in which the top screens are optional), it is critical to maintain a balanced situation on both sensors. DO NOT position a chronograph with the sunlight directly behind or in front of your shooting position. In this situation, the light will always be stronger on the sensor closest to the position of the sun. Relocate to another position where the light is to the left, right, or overhead positions. It is possible to tilt a tripod panhead allowing the screens to angle themselves toward a late afternoon light in order to maintain a BALANCED diffused light on both sensors. Remember to also angle your shooting position to prevent damaging the equipment with a stray shot.
4. Muzzle blast - If the muzzle blast reaches the first sensor before the projectile, your results may be in error or not recorded at all. If the muzzle blast causes your screens to shake, the readings could also be affected. Suggestion - when using high powered rifles move back away from the chronograph sensors (12 - 18 feet), until proper velocities are recorded, and then move forward one foot at a time, to determine the closest distance at which each weapon will perform at. Then record that information for future use. Different calibers, brands, barrels, and ammunition will affect the distance, so it may be necessary to test each accordingly.
5. The CED Infrared screens are designed for use when mother nature is not cooperating or for times and locations where insufficient light exists. If they are used under bright sunlight condition, it is possible that the sunlight may over-power them or create an in-balanced condition. It is critically important on ALL chronographs to maintain a BALANCED light condition on both sensors. Therefore, in such conditions re-position the chronograph to an area of shade away from the sunlight, or remove the infrared screens and use natural sunlight in a balanced position, or cover the infrared screens with a large cardboard to prevent natural sunlight from reaching the sensors.
6. Spacing. Make sure that your sensors are properly positioned and tightened. If they are off by even 1/16" it will cause incorrect readings. Each sensor has an internal pressure plate. Slide the sensor completely on the mounting bracket until it fits snugly and then tighten the custom pressure plate from the bottom of each sensor until it stays firmly in place. DO NOT over-tighten as it may become difficult to remove later.
7. Glints - If there is water, sand, snow, or bright concrete on the ground below your tripod / chronograph set-up, the sunlight may bounce (reflect) light off the ground surface shining it back up onto the projectile, which in turn may prevent the sensors from detecting a light drop (shadow)of the projectile, resulting in a poor or no reading situation.
8. Indoor - Fluorescent lighting is the kiss of death to any chronograph system. Their light does not allow the sensors to "see" the projectile properly. Additionally, as all fluorescent lights "flutter", it is possible for the chronograph sensors to detect this fluttering which in turn will create false velocity readings. The chronograph may fill itself with velocities in a short period of time, all caused by the overhead lighting itself. Cover the top of the IR screens if this type of lighting is near your chronograph set-up to prevent it interfering. Also make sure that no additional light is penetrating onto either sensor which could then create an in-balance of light on them.
9. Some ranges are designed with small narrow bays or short backdrops, which may cause excessive sound wave and / or muzzle blast problems. These have been known to cause interference with chronograph results.
10. When using the CED Infrared in an indoor shooting range with AC electricity to power the infrared screen set, make sure the AC supply itself is a full 110V output. If the range is located a great distance from the power transformer, it is possible that the output is less than 110V and this may prevent proper performance. Customers in a few cases have found that although they got green lights on both IR screens, no recordings occurred. In such cases, it is better to use the NiMH Battery Pack instead. When the switch to the NiMH Battery pack was made, the problem ceased.
11. Other variables - Depending on the quality of the chronograph & sensors, other variables such as mobile phone transmissions and high electrical tension poles or electrified fencing can all have effects on chronograph performance. Even high amounts of static electricity from summer thunder storms in the area of use can result in problems. In such cases, change the location of use or wait for better weather conditions to occur.

Again while the focus is on CED products much of this can be applied to most chronographs.

Ron
 
I highly recommend looking down the side of the barrel first when lining up your shot over the chrono. A scoped rifle or AR will shoot a couple inches low at 10', and many a chrono have met their demise due to this.
 
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