Here's a wierd one. Had a few reloading mistakes - shells with primers and no shot or powder. Put these into my Citori XT to shoot the wad out so I could re-use the shell. Shot three of them. Worked fine. After shooting the three, when I closed the gun, the opening lever won't go back to just the right of center, and the trigger won't move?? Idea's before I take it to the gunsmith?
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Citori trigger won't pull
- Thread starter ilmonster
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kirbythegunsmith
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The mechanism is jammed, without the ability to open, correct?
Possibilities include broken or loose internals that have nothing to do with the shells, just that time for something to happen.
Alternatively, a piece of something could have gotten into the mechanicals and caused a jam fit when the gun closed and smashed the parts together with a piece of interfering material.
Remember "Mother, Jugs, and Speed" when Raquel had to help the old fat dude with the zipper problem?
Something getting stuck going one way, and not wanting to move the other way, either. Youch.
When the lever can't move all the way, the trigger action is blocked and may be partially in the auto-safety-on part of the actuation.
I would need to make a thorough exam of the parts after such a mis-adventure, since any force levels that cause a jammation with complications should be verified that all is now OK before giving the owner a proper go-ahead.
At least for my shop, I am just 3 miles from Browning in Arnold, so spares are close at hand.
[email protected]
The Shotgun Shop, gunsmithing in Arnold MO
The mechanism is jammed, without the ability to open, correct?
Possibilities include broken or loose internals that have nothing to do with the shells, just that time for something to happen.
Alternatively, a piece of something could have gotten into the mechanicals and caused a jam fit when the gun closed and smashed the parts together with a piece of interfering material.
Remember "Mother, Jugs, and Speed" when Raquel had to help the old fat dude with the zipper problem?
Something getting stuck going one way, and not wanting to move the other way, either. Youch.
When the lever can't move all the way, the trigger action is blocked and may be partially in the auto-safety-on part of the actuation.
I would need to make a thorough exam of the parts after such a mis-adventure, since any force levels that cause a jammation with complications should be verified that all is now OK before giving the owner a proper go-ahead.
At least for my shop, I am just 3 miles from Browning in Arnold, so spares are close at hand.
[email protected]
The Shotgun Shop, gunsmithing in Arnold MO
Actually, the lever isn't jammed. When I take the gun apart, the lever goes back to center. When I assemble it again, the lever does not go to center. The action does close when assembled, but the trigger still won't go off?
kirbythegunsmith
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My own personal experience with results that customers have gotten with various 'smiths is a mixed bag. I do a fair amount of reworking things that were mis-modified by someone calling themselves a gunsmith.
Case in point: a JC Higgins 60 semi 12 ga. with double-feed problems, a stuck shell in the chamber, and a case of occasional double-fire. The gun was supposed to have been already cleaned at another shop, but the gas assembly was still carbonized and more.
It took 2 times to sufficiently rework the sear engagement, and the shell stop had been beveled on the end where a flat edge is required to catch the next shell's rim. As it was, I told the owner that I was glad that the other shop had not tried to go further, since I would have probably found damaged parts. I do not know that the shell stop problems or other situations were from their efforts, just that the D/A and cleaning was insufficient. The complete D/A was no picnic for me, either, but I have learned many tricks in my day.
I did attend the best school that I could find, and do not know any other 'smiths in my locale that have done anything like that. A gunsmith needs no credentials to hang out a shingle. Some shops will hire someone that ran their own shop without going broke immediately. I know for a fact that one 'smith working at a big-name establishment is one who's shop was of limited success, and he admitted that getting hired there was better than working at his own place, even though he had to relocate hundreds of miles.
I posted some of this type of information previously for some wanting to know what schools were like vs. the video training tapes available. The training that you get at a competent gunsmith's side after some basic training is paramount, in my opinion. The level of work or rework done at the shop(s) of learning may mean much about the level that anyone normal may attain. A shop that does mostly blue jobs will learn much about taking apart the guns that are brought in for refinish, but if they are mostly Mossberg, Remington, and other pumps, a double can be a challenge, shall we say? If there is little problem diagnosis and repair, the fallback may become parts changing. Do you want a vehicle mechanic that changes parts without knowing the fundamentals of diagnosis? Should you use a repair shop that has little knowledge of parts fitting or re-fitting?
I get to see and rebuild many types of doubles, like classic AH Fox, Brownings, Winchester 101's, and many odd names that most seldom see, like European and German-made types. Many times I must rework the parts that exist, since locating parts for older guns of many stripes can be vexatious, unless they were plentiful.
When I have seen the situations posted on various forums of someone trying to assemble a Lefever double or a Remington 29, and simple repairs, these problems need more available information beyond basic disassembly books. I think that I am that much nearer to writing repair articles and manuals about the process of repairs done on specific basket cases, since many of the unique improvements can expose learning thoughts that will be adaptable to other firearms. The problems with the Higgins previously mentioned involved a total of nearly 200 archive photos with the specifics including extraction improvement, spring duplication and tuning, feeding and action diagnosis, and much recognition of part defects and subsequent refurbishments.
I did have one customer that had been collecting classic American doubles, and would send them off to have chokes opened at a big name place out-of-state. They did not know about me at that time, and after I got to see some of the barrels that had been reworked, I was horrified to see a bad case of pigeon-toed chokes- the muzzles had been bored open with no thought to alignment! Thousands of dollars of value in a gun that can't shoot straight, now.
I found that big name is no proof of quality work, so please keep that in mind, regardless of your decision.
[email protected]
My own personal experience with results that customers have gotten with various 'smiths is a mixed bag. I do a fair amount of reworking things that were mis-modified by someone calling themselves a gunsmith.
Case in point: a JC Higgins 60 semi 12 ga. with double-feed problems, a stuck shell in the chamber, and a case of occasional double-fire. The gun was supposed to have been already cleaned at another shop, but the gas assembly was still carbonized and more.
It took 2 times to sufficiently rework the sear engagement, and the shell stop had been beveled on the end where a flat edge is required to catch the next shell's rim. As it was, I told the owner that I was glad that the other shop had not tried to go further, since I would have probably found damaged parts. I do not know that the shell stop problems or other situations were from their efforts, just that the D/A and cleaning was insufficient. The complete D/A was no picnic for me, either, but I have learned many tricks in my day.
I did attend the best school that I could find, and do not know any other 'smiths in my locale that have done anything like that. A gunsmith needs no credentials to hang out a shingle. Some shops will hire someone that ran their own shop without going broke immediately. I know for a fact that one 'smith working at a big-name establishment is one who's shop was of limited success, and he admitted that getting hired there was better than working at his own place, even though he had to relocate hundreds of miles.
I posted some of this type of information previously for some wanting to know what schools were like vs. the video training tapes available. The training that you get at a competent gunsmith's side after some basic training is paramount, in my opinion. The level of work or rework done at the shop(s) of learning may mean much about the level that anyone normal may attain. A shop that does mostly blue jobs will learn much about taking apart the guns that are brought in for refinish, but if they are mostly Mossberg, Remington, and other pumps, a double can be a challenge, shall we say? If there is little problem diagnosis and repair, the fallback may become parts changing. Do you want a vehicle mechanic that changes parts without knowing the fundamentals of diagnosis? Should you use a repair shop that has little knowledge of parts fitting or re-fitting?
I get to see and rebuild many types of doubles, like classic AH Fox, Brownings, Winchester 101's, and many odd names that most seldom see, like European and German-made types. Many times I must rework the parts that exist, since locating parts for older guns of many stripes can be vexatious, unless they were plentiful.
When I have seen the situations posted on various forums of someone trying to assemble a Lefever double or a Remington 29, and simple repairs, these problems need more available information beyond basic disassembly books. I think that I am that much nearer to writing repair articles and manuals about the process of repairs done on specific basket cases, since many of the unique improvements can expose learning thoughts that will be adaptable to other firearms. The problems with the Higgins previously mentioned involved a total of nearly 200 archive photos with the specifics including extraction improvement, spring duplication and tuning, feeding and action diagnosis, and much recognition of part defects and subsequent refurbishments.
I did have one customer that had been collecting classic American doubles, and would send them off to have chokes opened at a big name place out-of-state. They did not know about me at that time, and after I got to see some of the barrels that had been reworked, I was horrified to see a bad case of pigeon-toed chokes- the muzzles had been bored open with no thought to alignment! Thousands of dollars of value in a gun that can't shoot straight, now.
I found that big name is no proof of quality work, so please keep that in mind, regardless of your decision.
[email protected]
atblis
Member
Uh
Probably not, though I am sure there are exceptions.
Doesn't that thing have inertia triggers? With the action closed, I'd give the butt a few good whaps on a hard floor. You know, drop it from a foot or so onto the floor butt first. See if that un jams something.
would ya'll trust a gunsmith at a Gander Mountain
Probably not, though I am sure there are exceptions.
Doesn't that thing have inertia triggers? With the action closed, I'd give the butt a few good whaps on a hard floor. You know, drop it from a foot or so onto the floor butt first. See if that un jams something.
Thanks for the replys! Took it to the Gander Mtn 'smith and after a little manipulating, it works! Felt stupid that my working the controls and bumping it on the floor didn't fix it...oh well. Off to the skeet field tonight.
Could he explain what had happened? I hate 'fixes' where you don't know what you did to make it happen (if you did), you don't know what fixed it (just the KFA approach), and don't know if it could happen again -- usually at the most inoportune time.
It could have been the barrel selector switch (on the safety) was in the middle and not left or right. I had that happen to me and discovered that the selector was halfway between U/O, once it was moved one way or the other it worked fine.
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