Clean your carry gun! and change out your ammo.

[Ignition Override]

Even my "carry Rifle" is cleaned internally approx. every 60-100 rds. Most of you don't realize how filthy a "roller Delayed blowback" quickly gets.

As we live just 12 min. from the huge private gun club, this rifle is in my car almost as often as my Sig P225, or CZ PCR (9mm) is taken on errands as a "carry gun".

Therefore this PTR-91 "Classic GI" almost is a carry gun. ptr100_3_hr.jpg (2000×2000) (ak-103.com) Our guns are cleaned partly so that there isn't much More to clean later - the Gun Slob method.

 

[JTQ]

do you guy lube after CLP?

CLP is a lube.

If you use a CLP, typically what you do is wipe off the crud first, then apply the CLP, so the last step before putting the gun back together is put CLP (lube) on the the gun.

 

[Mark_Mark]

CLP is a lube.

If you use a CLP, typically what you do is wipe off the crud first, then apply the CLP, so the last step before putting the gun back together is put CLP (lube) on the the gun.

got it! Clean with it, then lube with it!

thanks! I’m on my 1st bottle and I did the 2 Hoope and RemOil for a long time

 

[JTQ]

The problem is that the C and P degrades the performance of the L, and the C only partially cleans. Separate cleaning and lubrication operations are superior.

I suppose it depends on how clean you feel you need to get your gun to function properly.
https://slip2000.com/blogs/news/after-6000-rounds-i-cleaned-my-gun-with-a-paper-towel

In regards to using a CLP, every time you degrease your gun...

So far I tend to use Gun Scrubber and follow that up with Lucas gun oil.

You are now starting at point 0. Using a CLP on a gun is like using a cast iron pan. The more you use it, the better it works. Every time you degrease your gun, you've removed all the protective coating the CLP has provided and you have to start all over again.

Using a degreaser on your gun is like putting your cast iron fry pan in the dish washer. Sure, you can do it, and it may seem like it simplifies your life, but it just degrades the performance of your pan, and causes you more work getting it back to the non-stick characteristics that they are prized. The same with using a CLP. The longer you go without degreasing your gun, the easier it will be to clean.

 

[Alllen Bundy]

Using a CLP on a gun is like using a cast iron pan. The more you use it, the better it works. Every time you degrease your gun, you've removed all the protective coating the CLP has provided and you have to start all over again.

If you believe that I have a ski lodge on a mountain in Florida that I'd like to sell you. It's a GREAT business opportunity!

Your gun is not a cast iron frying pan. You are NOT baking on a coating every time you use it.

With a CLP, at best you are merely DILUTING the contaminants that have entered the lubricant film instead of actually removing them.

I seriously doubt that you can show me a CLP that has lower friction, higher film strength, and lubricates at the low and high temperature extremes that MilComm TW25B synthetic grease and their synthetic MC2500 oil do. I also seriously doubt that any CLP protects any better.

 

[BushMaster-15]

Not quite sure WHY one disassembles their firearms so frequently most curious ?. I run some weapons pretty ragged and have yet to have a fail to fire scenario ,so is it the lube your using ? Lead fouling ,powder carbon residue and what brand of firearm is failing function ?
https://www.mcmaster.com/mold-release-lubricants/
I use 1409K72 Mold release PTFE ,IMO Best lubricant for the money stays where applied ,crap easily wipes off and extremely difficult to remove ,without solvent washing . PTFE is micro ball bearings just moving around but NOT wearing or falling off .
I simply disassemble MY CCW weapons as well as nearly all others ,twice a year . I then either wipe or solvent clean reapply PTFE and GOOD too GO until next time ,regardless how many rounds down range . I do swab and brush the bore after range trips or usage generally for accuracy purposes . Fyi : I generally shoot perhaps 600-3500 pistol rounds per year out of My pistols ,depending on caliber .
A great deal more out of My Rifles collectively ,perhaps as many as #5 -7K a year . NO different same maintenance twice a year .

Seriously in this day and age WHY would You use anything else ?.

PTFE dry film lubricant is considered by many to be the best chain lubricant for bicycles or motorbikes. In fact any metal application where smooth repeated movement under high pressure requires lubrication then a PTFE dry lubricant spray is ideal. A lubricant spray with teflon dries quickly therefore it stays where it is applied. In addition it repels dirt, dust and water. It also resists oils, greases and many chemicals.

 

[JTQ]

Your gun is not a cast iron frying pan. You are NOT baking on a coating every time you use it.

As long as you aren't stripping it off with a degreaser every time you clean, the product will remain on the gun. The more you use it, the easier it is to clean.

You can do whatever you want with your one handgun, that you've owned for a couple of years.

However, for those that may been using a CLP, and having mixed results, it is likely because they are constantly stripping it off the gun. If they stopped using a degreaser, they will most likely see improved performance with their CLP of choice.

 

[Alllen Bundy]

Not quite sure WHY one disassembles their firearms so frequently most curious ?.

Besides being able to more thoroughly clean, disassembly allows inspection of the parts which might head off a field failure. Plus you better understand the workings of your firearm. For instance, after disassembly and analyzing the FCU in my P365, I understand that the trigger goes through 4 distinct stages of resistance before the sear releases. I also identified several areas of the FCU parts that needed finer finishing to make the trigger pull more smoothly.

PTFE dry film lubricant is considered by many to be the best chain lubricant for bicycles or motorbikes.

The testing that I have seen showed that paraffin wax with teflon provided the lowest chain drive friction. But that is under dry conditions. Try riding a bicycle in Minnesota winters with all of the wet road grit getting on your chain and grinding away. I found that synthetic grease works best for wet chain conditions.

I'll need to see the testing before I'll accept that a dry lube protects better than a synthetic grease. The MilComm TW25B that I use is a synthetic grease with teflon.

In a dusty environment I probably would be more inclined to use a dry lube. But I live in the land of 10,000 lakes and many swamps with high humidity in the summer and subzero temperatures in the winter. If I pocket carry in the summer my pistol is going to see even more humidity. So I'll continue to use synthetic grease and oil until someone can prove that something else works better.

 

[Alllen Bundy]

The more you use it, the easier it is to clean.

If that is the case it suggests to me that your gun was dirty and the more you use the CLP the further cleans the gun which then allows the CLP to better cling to the gun parts. If your gun was clean to begin with I seriously doubt that you would see any improvement in time with a CLP.

You can do whatever you want with your one handgun, that you've owned for a couple of years.

Two handguns actually.

And I've been using lubricants on mechanical devices for at least 60 years since before synthetic lubricants were generally available.

 

[JTQ]

If that is the case it suggests to me that your gun was dirty and the more you use the CLP the further cleans the gun which then allows the CLP to better cling to the gun parts. If your gun was clean to begin with I seriously doubt that you would see any improvement in time with a CLP.

Two handguns actually.

And I've been using lubricants on mechanical devices for at least 60 years since before synthetic lubricants were generally available.

So you're saying you haven't used CLP's on firearms, and you really don't know their effectiveness. Carry on.

 

[Alllen Bundy]

So you're saying you haven't used CLP's on firearms, and you really don't know their effectiveness. Carry on.

I've used CLPs before, but would never use it on a firearm, unless I was desperate. It's called detergent motor oil! The detergents have long been known to degrade the performance of the lubricant. Which is why detergent motor oils are generally not used for racing because they don't need to worry about long term contaminant buildup. Lubricity is more important in a race.

 

[BushMaster-15]

Besides being able to more thoroughly clean, disassembly allows inspection of the parts which might head off a field failure. Plus you better understand the workings of your firearm. For instance, after disassembly and analyzing the FCU in my P365, I understand that the trigger goes through 4 distinct stages of resistance before the sear releases. I also identified several areas of the FCU parts that needed finer finishing to make the trigger pull more smoothly.



The testing that I have seen showed that paraffin wax with teflon provided the lowest chain drive friction. But that is under dry conditions. Try riding a bicycle in Minnesota winters with all of the wet road grit getting on your chain and grinding away. I found that synthetic grease works best for wet chain conditions.

I'll need to see the testing before I'll accept that a dry lube protects better than a synthetic grease. The MilComm TW25B that I use is a synthetic grease with teflon.

In a dusty environment I probably would be more inclined to use a dry lube. But I live in the land of 10,000 lakes and many swamps with high humidity in the summer and subzero temperatures in the winter. If I pocket carry in the summer my pistol is going to see even more humidity. So I'll continue to use synthetic grease and oil until someone can prove that something else works better.

PTFE is WATERPROOF . When was the last time YOU had a field failure ? . Ideally a DRY film lubricant remains on the metal and if critical parts aren't coated with the latest greatest metal lubrication infusions , they most certainly ought to be . NiB ,Nitride , very soon AlMgB14, BAM
which will redefine wear or necessity for lube . Diamond hardness with 1/2 coefficient of PTFE friction . Say Adios to Lubes but until then PTFE is a superior lubricant . Wet is other oils and emulsions which are unnecessary, IMO .

Proper chain lubrication comes in the form of sealed rollers ,PTFE simply cushions Drive or spur gear to roller contact and having one of the slickest coefficients of friction ,allows little to nothing adhering to what's treated . If you're having issues with chain ,try stepping up to quality chain Tsubaki .

 

[JohnKSa]

The detergents have long been known to degrade the performance of the lubricant.

Firearm lubrication requirements are not especially stringent. Most any decent lubricant is way more than adequate. A light grease is good for a few points like sear contact that benefit from a really good lube. For the rest of the gun a decent CLP isn't going to hurt anything at all--in fact the 'P' feature can be a very useful thing, particularly in a carry gun with non-coated parts that aren't stainless steel.

 

[Mark_Mark]

Firearm lubrication requirements are not especially stringent. Most any decent lubricant is way more than adequate. A light grease is good for a few points like sear contact that benefit from a really good lube. For the rest of the gun a decent CLP isn't going to hurt anything at all--in fact the 'P' feature can be a very useful thing, particularly in a carry gun with non-coated parts that aren't stainless steel.

I far like CLP! Couple of spray after cleaning. Good stuff!

this is what I use, I also bought some other lube I never tried, Balistol

 

[Alllen Bundy]

PTFE is WATERPROOF . When was the last time YOU had a field failure ?

I haven't. So my proactivity must be working well! But I have seen a number of soon to be catastrophic failure in mechanical devices because I WAS proactive and was doing preventative maintenance.

Teflon doesn't stick to metal by itself. It needs to be bonded or held to the metal in some manner in some manner. Teflon powder suspended in synthetic grease is one way to do it and it also protects the metal from oxidation. Teflon powder does not afford any corrosion protection on it's own. Any corrosion protection comes from what ever bonds the teflon powder to the metal.

......if critical parts aren't coated with the latest greatest metal lubrication infusions , they most certainly ought to be . NiB ,Nitride , very soon AlMgB14, BAM
which will redefine wear or necessity for lube . Diamond hardness with 1/2 coefficient of PTFE friction .

Except the Nitron finish came right off the the stripper rail on my P365. These coatings are not a cure all. Polishing the stripper rail in my P365 resulted in a lower friction than the Nitron finish. Granted, if Sig has properly polished the stripper rail BEFORE applying the Nitron finish it would have worked better.

Proper chain lubrication comes in the form of sealed rollers ,PTFE simply cushions Drive or spur gear to roller contact and having one of the slickest coefficients of friction ,allows little to nothing adhering to what's treated .

Sealed rollers are great. But I've never seen a sealed roller bicycle chain.

 

[aaaaa]

I far like CLP! Couple of spray after cleaning. Good stuff!

this is what I use, I also bought some other lube I never tried, Balistol

View attachment 1127362

The gun shop sold me a can of that stuff and I guess I am not sure what to do with it. I tried it, smells horrible (and I like the smell of motor oil anyway), and it seems to leave a residue, so I followed up with Gun Scrubber, then lubed the appropriate parts. Maybe I need to watch a You Tube on how to use the CLP.

 

[Mark_Mark]

The gun shop sold me a can of that stuff and I guess I am not sure what to do with it. I tried it, smells horrible (and I like the smell of motor oil anyway), and it seems to leave a residue, so I followed up with Gun Scrubber, then lubed the appropriate parts. Maybe I need to watch a You Tube on how to use the CLP.

old school Hoppe’s #9 smells great! then follow up with RemOil! Love the Combo!

 

[JTQ]

delete

 

[JTQ]

The gun shop sold me a can of that stuff and I guess I am not sure what to do with it. I tried it, smells horrible (and I like the smell of motor oil anyway), and it seems to leave a residue, so I followed up with Gun Scrubber, then lubed the appropriate parts. Maybe I need to watch a You Tube on how to use the CLP.

If you're talking about Ballistol, it does have an aroma, here is Hickok45 with some videos

1911 Cleaning



Glock Cleaning

 

[JTQ]

...and it seems to leave a residue, so I followed up with Gun Scrubber, then lubed the appropriate parts.

When you put lube on your gun, isn't that the same as the residue you see from the CLP?

 

[Mark_Mark]

If you're talking about Ballistol, it does have an aroma, here is Hickok45 with some videos

1911 Cleaning



Glock Cleaning

I’m afraid to crack open my Ballistol! Like the 1st time I tried Duran fruit

 

[Mark_Mark]

When you put lube on your gun, isn't that the same as the residue you see from the CLP?

good question? is the residue just the lube factor of CLP?

 

[Jimster]

Ballistol is all I use. Love it.

 

[JTQ]

good question? is the residue just the lube factor of CLP?

Yes.

Unless there is something else he's seeing.

 

[JTQ]

Other CLP's...

BreakFree CLP on a Glock with Mrgunsngear



SLIP2000 on a Glock