Cleaned my 1911 for the first time

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valnar

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So almost 9 years ago, I did my Internet research and bought what was (and according to some, still is) the best value in a 1911. The Dan Wesson PM7-S. It's quite a handsome gun. I got it before the CZ purchase.

I prefer to shoot my SIG P220 and only recently, after 9 years, shot my only 1911 for the first time.

-- Nice trigger. Love the SA. I can see why people like it --

So I took it home to clean it for the first time. OMG! I hate cleaning guns as it is - 'tis my least favorite thing to do, so I tend to buy guns that are fairly easy to take apart like my SIG P229 and P220. This PM7-S just ticks me off.

After a 5 minute hunt to find the barrel bushing that went flying off, I then had to contend with the full-length guide rod. There's a Mensa puzzle for me. I never did manage to remove it but cleaned all around it, including the barrel. Putting it back together was no more fun, and all that was just a cursory field cleaning. I was scared to take it apart any further.

I'd love to keep this 1911 just to have "one" sample of such a weapon, but the takedown and cleaning doesn't encourage me to shoot it. Is it possible to get replacements on the guide rod and barrel bushing that can be removed without tools? Any other replacement parts that would make it easier?

-------------------------------------------
This second question is somewhat unrelated.

If I wanted to buy another .45ACP gun to supplement my SIG P220, but had a nice single action trigger similar to a 1911 and was easier to take apart, is there such a specimen?
 
Yes, you can replace the one-piece guide rod with GI type spring plug and guide.

The barrel bushing fit can be made easier with a strip of emery cloth and some shoe-shine motion sanding.

As for losing the bushing?
Hmmmm?
Not real sure how one of those gets launched.
There is no spring tension behind it when it is turned to take it out of the slide.

rc
 
Hmmm. Perhaps I called it the wrong thing. (Checking my parts diagram). Is it the recoil spring plug?
 
^ That sounds more like a part that, when taking the 1911 apart, can get a good launch across the room.

Something you can get that helps with taking apart a 1911 with a full length guide rod is a bushing tool. Or you can just replace the whole guide rod with a standard-length, G.I. guide rod.

While I can understand the difficulty that people have with the full length guide rod in a 1911, I have never been able to understand the real difficulty in taking apart a 1911. I know that modern handguns today have a take-down lever of some sort so that the top of the slide just comes off, or pushing out a slide stop lever and the slide comes out as an assembly. But the 1911 isn't really any more difficult than this, there is just an order you have to follow to take it apart, just like any other handgun.
 
You'll get the hang of it. I wouldn't waste time replacing parts. The GI recoil rod isn't going to be any easier, it's my stiff tight fitting bushing that is tricky with mine. My DW bushing is really tight, but then again, it's supposed to be. Sound like your assembling it wrong if there is truely a difference between a GI and full length recoil rod.

I have a Kimber with a full length rod, and a DW with a GI rod. The Kimber is easier to assemble because it is way looser.

You've only cleaned your 1911 once? :scrutiny:

AGI has a decent dissasembly DVD. There are few others out there. Wilsons detail strip DVD is very, very good. Get a good bushing wrench and 3/32" punch.

Learn how to tear down your 1911. I strip the side alot because it is very easy to do. Once you gain the skills it's quite easy. And some good lube and CLP'ing the grit and dirt out of the frame deos improve trigger feel. It's a very rewarding feeling knowing it's been cleaned up perfectly, and I do notice an improvement in feel and reliability. Not to mention it is probally a good idea to know the condition of your 1911's guts.

The easiest way to put the recoil sping plug in:
-Assemble the entire pistol except for the plug
-push plug and recoil spring down (safety glasses may be a good idea)
-spin bushing with thumb until it hits the recoil plug shoulder and holds it in/down. The bushing doesn't have to be in it's normal spot, just turned in enough to grab the edge of the plug. Helps a bit if the inside and outside of the bushing is soaked with thick lube.

-now use the bushing wrench to push down on the recoil plug and completely turn the bushing into it's normal spot.


The problem with my better 1911's is that the bushing is so tight that I can't turn it with my thumb to hold it down so I can get my wrench on. I actually have to push the loose recoil plug and spring down with the wrench and then turn. Very challenging to do.
 
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I'd love to keep this 1911 just to have "one" sample of such a weapon, but the takedown and cleaning doesn't encourage me to shoot it. Is it possible to get replacements on the guide rod and barrel bushing that can be removed without tools? Any other replacement parts that would make it easier?
Click to expand...

Sounds like an obviously defective pistol. I would be more than happy to relieve you of such a paperweight.:evil:

The thing is essentially brand new. 1911s can be tricky if you're used to bushingless pistols, but it gets easier as you get experience and the pistol loosens up a bit. The barrel link can be a pain to line up but be patient. DO NOT force & twist the slide lock on reassembly or you will wind up with the dreaded Idiot Mark.

They make a plastic bushing tool but I've never needed one. I have a pretty thick thumbnail that works just fine to depress the plug.

If you still have the manual give it a read or better yet have someone familiar with 1911s walk you through it a few times.
 
I'll watch a couple more videos. The full length guide rod certainly perplexed me.

For now, I just ordered a new Ed Brown recoil spring plug. Maybe at least that part will be a bit easier.
 
Since the 1911 is so modular, I want to order a standard length rod as well. Maybe I can try both ways and see what I like better.

If I want to get a GI Rod, what else do I need to buy to fully replace the FLGR setup? I'd be hitting Brownells or Midway.
 
The plug, as the one you have has a hole in the center and makes depression difficult. For now, you can remove the entire slide at once, just be sure to grasp it as it clears the frame to prevent things from flying. Otherwise, twist the bushing, remove the plug and spring, twist the bushing again and remove it. Pull the slide from the frame and remove the FLGR and barrel, rod removed toward the rear, barrel out the front.

Please don't sand that bushing, order a bushing wrench from Brownells, their model which is (I think) aluminum.
 
Go on you tube and watch some how to videos and be careful replacing the slide stop so you don't scratch the frame or slide. It pushes in, don't slide it up.
 
so you don't scratch the frame or slide.
Click to expand...

Oh, too late for that one. It's scratched.

So to my last question. Do I only buy a GI length rod, or is there a new spring to go with it should I want to swap it out?
 
I love 1911s, but I also find them annoying to take down. I put the "idiot scratch" on my Colt the first time I took it apart and have since dreaded the take down. That said, it isn't that difficult to do.
 
I just put the slide stop levers pin in. I let the lever and it's lug dangle straight down over the trigger guard. I don't snap it in.

That way it drops right in with Zero force. I tug on the barrel to make sure the slide stop cought the barrel link. If it did, then I lift it up, draw the slide back, and snap the slide stop lever all the way in.

Then I install the recoil plug.

It's all about technique, and a plastic bushing wrench.

The safety/slide stop plunger tool is handy. But I just carve a concave curve into the clip end of a Bic pen cap so that the pen cap depresses the saftey plunger for thumb safety reinstallation. I use a 3/32 punch depress the firing pin and for removing the MSH pin.
 
Seriously meow. They're not as simple as Glock or whatever, but I don't see the big deal.

It's certainly IMO not worth buying a GI-style plunger & spring setup to replace the FLGR.

Like somebody else said, find a good video, watch closely, try it yourself and take your time.

BTW you don't need a bushing wrench.....I use the baseplate of the magazine to depress the guide rod spring.
 
The bushing wrench makes things more controllable and keeps springs from being pointed at eyes, it isn't a macho thing, it's a safety thing. I've never launched any parts from my 1911s.

For those who have never had an interference fit bushing, good luck with not using a wrench.
 
I have a Springfield Champion .45. When I take the slide off I have to have my hand wrapped under it controlling the spring then when the slide is off I can still control the spring and remove it.
The springs for .45 are powerful-and after firing hundreds of rounds through it my Champion is easier to manage during take down. The spring is still quite powerful so having control over it is very important.
The same with re-assembly. It's a challenge at times but I have found that wrapping my hand over the slide gives me the control I need over the spring. The manual does bring that up as well.
The Springfield Champion is a rugged solid firearm. I like it a lot, and it has performed flawlessly to include being very accurate.
You're going to have a strong spring with the .45 - a .45 is a powerful caliber. It's important to really study the manual to include going on line and watching some videos on dis assembly/assembly as well. There are some good videos, so I would suggest you google your model relating to take down and assembly.
 
A first 1911 fieldstrip is always somewhat challenging. The pistol will loosen up once you shoot it a little more. With a little practice field striping will become second nature. Enjoy your PM-7. :)

CBOB

dw1911_02.jpg


CCO

dwcco1911_06.jpg


PM-9

czdwpm9_03.jpg
 
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