How many guys would clean their carb or their brakes with gun cleaner? Carb cleaner is designed to dissolve gasoline that has turned into varnish. Why would you have carbon present in a carb? I never understood the whole idea of using any aerosol cleaner to clean a gun. Most people waste over half of the can. All that is really needed is a bottle of CLP and an M 16 brush and a couple of rags.
Cleaner: Brake vs Carburetor
- Thread starter NoAlibi
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killchain
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You know, this is going to sound crazy but here we go...
I use baby wipes. Yeah, you heard me, baby wipes. How I go about it is right after a session, when I have the time, I wipe down the gun with some Break-Free and let it sit for about an hour. Then I wipe off most of it with baby wipes. What I can't get with a baby wipe I'll get with a 1 1/2in paintbrush with Break-Free or Q-tips. Then I reoil with Break-Free and reassemble.
Now if, it's BAD, then it goes into the solvent tank.
To date I have not had one single issue with using baby wipes, other than muttering to myself at 2:30am in Wal-Mart about needing baby wipes for my gun and seeing a Wal-Mart employee and a young mother looking at me like I was nuts.
To each their own, I guess?
I use baby wipes. Yeah, you heard me, baby wipes. How I go about it is right after a session, when I have the time, I wipe down the gun with some Break-Free and let it sit for about an hour. Then I wipe off most of it with baby wipes. What I can't get with a baby wipe I'll get with a 1 1/2in paintbrush with Break-Free or Q-tips. Then I reoil with Break-Free and reassemble.
Now if, it's BAD, then it goes into the solvent tank.
To date I have not had one single issue with using baby wipes, other than muttering to myself at 2:30am in Wal-Mart about needing baby wipes for my gun and seeing a Wal-Mart employee and a young mother looking at me like I was nuts.
To each their own, I guess?
oneounceload
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I use brake cleaner in my shotgun barrels and to spray clean my choke tubes - it INSTANTLY cleans them as opposed to spraying something else and letting them soak. However, as mentioned, it strips EVERYTHING off the metal as far as lubricant goes, so remember to recoat. For me, it is spraying things with RemOil after
jimmyraythomason
Member
There it is. Use what works for you.
1. brake, but why?
2.yes
3. probably
4. probably
I would use a stripper like brake cleaner only if all the parts were apart and no hidden crevices or areas. Reason: brake cleaner will strip the oil everywhere, and if it's not an area that gets reoiled, guess where the rust starts?
And if the parts are all apart anyway, no need for anything more than CLP.
2.yes
3. probably
4. probably
I would use a stripper like brake cleaner only if all the parts were apart and no hidden crevices or areas. Reason: brake cleaner will strip the oil everywhere, and if it's not an area that gets reoiled, guess where the rust starts?
And if the parts are all apart anyway, no need for anything more than CLP.
hapidogbreath
Member
Never broke anything down. Between the PW and the parts washer in the Motor pool it was a breeze........
MikeJackmin
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I've used brake cleaner only once, on a couple of stainless steel revolvers which I'd purchased used; both of these guns were (a) filthy, and (b) full of some sort of evil, dried-out lube which had turned to varnish.
I removed the grips, took the guns outside on a warm sunny day, and hosed down the innards as best I could, going from one to the other, until the can was empty. I let them dry for a while in the sun and then hosed them down again with aerosol RemOil, and repeated that process until the oil running out of them was clear instead of brown.
I wore gloves and tried to be careful, but I still got that stuff all over me.
The guns? They are both spotless now, and the actions are nice and smooth.
FWIW, I do most of my routine cleaning with Ballistol, which is about as non-toxic as cleaners get. Chemical exposures can add up over time, so it's smart to keep the routine stuff as safe as you can.
I removed the grips, took the guns outside on a warm sunny day, and hosed down the innards as best I could, going from one to the other, until the can was empty. I let them dry for a while in the sun and then hosed them down again with aerosol RemOil, and repeated that process until the oil running out of them was clear instead of brown.
I wore gloves and tried to be careful, but I still got that stuff all over me.
The guns? They are both spotless now, and the actions are nice and smooth.
FWIW, I do most of my routine cleaning with Ballistol, which is about as non-toxic as cleaners get. Chemical exposures can add up over time, so it's smart to keep the routine stuff as safe as you can.
NoAlibi
Member
I inherited several firearms that had been stored for over 30 years and whatever the lubricant that was used has turned to a brown, gummy substance. I also wanted to remove some unoxidized, thick grease (I'm guessing Cosmoline since it is a Winchester M1 Carbine) from another stored firearm.
This thread has lead me to do some re-thinking on the application of the originally mentioned cleaners as well as some of the other methods and chemicals mentioned.
Centaur 1
Member
Take a close look at the labels on both carb and brake cleaners to see what ingredients are present. Many contain chemicals like acetone and toluene which will melt plastic and ruin finishes. I don't remember the name of them, but several of the various barrel cleaning sprays contain 1,1,1 trichloroethane which is a great degreaser that is a lot less hash than acetone. Not all brake cleaners use this chemical, but Brakleen in the red can does, and it's cheaper than gun products. I'll take an old coffee can and stand the muzzle in it, then use the straw to spray the cleaner into the chamber until it runs clear out of the muzzle. This gets the heavy stuff out and then I clean as normal. I mostly do this with dirty .22's and after shooting cast boolits that are lubed with my lithium grease/beeswax lube. The cleaner that runs into the coffee can, just leave the lid off until it evaporates.
This is where I state my opinion about chlorinated solvents. Would it be bad if hairspray and deodorant were still charges with freon, sure but it hasn't been for a very long time. They've even changed all of the refrigerants in our cars and our home cooling systems. There are different levels of badness concerning chlorinated solvents. Think about it, they banned my grandmothers Aquanet hairspray back in the 1970's and Brakleen is still on the market. Progress is a great thing, but as long as we're all driving gasoline powered cars and our home's electricity is powered by burning hydrocarbon fuels we still have a long way to go. The average driver in the USA drives 20,000 miles a year which burns up to 1,000 gallons of gas; multiply that by over 200,000,000 drivers and Americans probably burn 200,000,000,000 gallons of gasoline a year. If the chlorinated solvent in Brakleen isn't harmfull enough to be banned or regulated, I really don't think that my using a couple of cans a year will cause much harm, unless it's poured on the ground and enters the water table. The best way to handle these chemicals is to let it evaporate.
This is where I state my opinion about chlorinated solvents. Would it be bad if hairspray and deodorant were still charges with freon, sure but it hasn't been for a very long time. They've even changed all of the refrigerants in our cars and our home cooling systems. There are different levels of badness concerning chlorinated solvents. Think about it, they banned my grandmothers Aquanet hairspray back in the 1970's and Brakleen is still on the market. Progress is a great thing, but as long as we're all driving gasoline powered cars and our home's electricity is powered by burning hydrocarbon fuels we still have a long way to go. The average driver in the USA drives 20,000 miles a year which burns up to 1,000 gallons of gas; multiply that by over 200,000,000 drivers and Americans probably burn 200,000,000,000 gallons of gasoline a year. If the chlorinated solvent in Brakleen isn't harmfull enough to be banned or regulated, I really don't think that my using a couple of cans a year will cause much harm, unless it's poured on the ground and enters the water table. The best way to handle these chemicals is to let it evaporate.
langenc
Member
non-chlorinated brake cleaner--the chlorinated version is supposed to be tough on bluing..
What is on your guns thats so tough Hoppes9 wont take off?
Is it a time issue that you dont want to dig and wipe every surface and would just rather "spray it down" and be done with it?
I consider myself pretty picky about the cleanliness of my guns, But not once did i think "WOW, Thats gonna need something stronger!".
Granted i clean mine after each shooting session where its 300 rounds or 25, So dirt and deposits don't build up on top of all the lube i use anyhow.
Is it a time issue that you dont want to dig and wipe every surface and would just rather "spray it down" and be done with it?
I consider myself pretty picky about the cleanliness of my guns, But not once did i think "WOW, Thats gonna need something stronger!".
Granted i clean mine after each shooting session where its 300 rounds or 25, So dirt and deposits don't build up on top of all the lube i use anyhow.
therewolf
member
Brake cleaner? It's made up of a high amount of Ether, which dries quickly,
and is great for bare-metal surfaces.
However, it may discolor, or cloud plastic. It may harm wood finishes. I personally wouldn't trust it around blued surfaces.
Simple Green's a gentle cleaner. After that I would go for Hoppes #9. Surprised nobody's mentioned the amazing restorative powers of Elbow Grease, properly applied.
Carb or Throttle cleaner? Not likely. I've seen it eat through paint, melt plastic,
and take the coating off venturis and throttle plates. I'd be really cautious with this stuff, using it as a last ditch resort. Q-tips to apply, many dry rags to remove it quickly. NEVER soak anything in it for any extended period.
But what do I know? I'm just a mechanic with 25 years experience...
and is great for bare-metal surfaces.
However, it may discolor, or cloud plastic. It may harm wood finishes. I personally wouldn't trust it around blued surfaces.
Simple Green's a gentle cleaner. After that I would go for Hoppes #9. Surprised nobody's mentioned the amazing restorative powers of Elbow Grease, properly applied.
Carb or Throttle cleaner? Not likely. I've seen it eat through paint, melt plastic,
and take the coating off venturis and throttle plates. I'd be really cautious with this stuff, using it as a last ditch resort. Q-tips to apply, many dry rags to remove it quickly. NEVER soak anything in it for any extended period.
But what do I know? I'm just a mechanic with 25 years experience...
SpaceFrank
Member
I thought Simple Green was abrasive, but I could be thinking of something else.
I've used CLP to great effect. Hoppe's for more everyday cleaning.
I've used CLP to great effect. Hoppe's for more everyday cleaning.
Pete D.
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sonic
I have a small ultrasonic cleaner. It works just fine. I field strip the guns and drop them in the basket. Blow dry and reoil.
In addition, in the past, before I had the sonic cleaner, I had used GunScrubber and brake cleaner. They were OK. I will try Simple Green as that idea is new to me. Maybe Simple Green diluted in water and used in the ultrasonic machine.
Pete
I have a small ultrasonic cleaner. It works just fine. I field strip the guns and drop them in the basket. Blow dry and reoil.
In addition, in the past, before I had the sonic cleaner, I had used GunScrubber and brake cleaner. They were OK. I will try Simple Green as that idea is new to me. Maybe Simple Green diluted in water and used in the ultrasonic machine.
Pete
jdh
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What is so hard to remove that Break Free and Hoppes won't cut it?
A 50 year accumulation of 3N1 or WD40(trust me don't use this stuff on your guns) that has dried to a hard, yellowish, sticky, varnish like substance.
Some guns take an hour or more in an industrial strength ultra-sonic cleaner with a good de-greaser to dissolve the residue.
Dilute the simple green 10 to 1 in the US cleaner.
A 50 year accumulation of 3N1 or WD40(trust me don't use this stuff on your guns) that has dried to a hard, yellowish, sticky, varnish like substance.
Some guns take an hour or more in an industrial strength ultra-sonic cleaner with a good de-greaser to dissolve the residue.
Dilute the simple green 10 to 1 in the US cleaner.
The biggest difference between brake cleaner and most carb cleaners is the residue that is left behind. Berrymans B-12 is about as good as it gets for removing the carbon, but will eat just about anything that is not metal, and may remove some finishes. I know for a fact that it eats the gold finish off of old holly carbs. Oiling the gun after the cleaner dries should remove the residue, but brake cleaner should be used if cleaning for a refinish job.
Most of the time I clean my guns with hoppies, CLP, and a little elbow grease. The main reason I use anything stronger would be to remove cosmoline, or get started on a gun that has been neglected, then I just stip it and clean the metal in a solovent tank, and blow dry with compressed air.
Most of the time I clean my guns with hoppies, CLP, and a little elbow grease. The main reason I use anything stronger would be to remove cosmoline, or get started on a gun that has been neglected, then I just stip it and clean the metal in a solovent tank, and blow dry with compressed air.
Perspective
The curious aspect of this thread is that everyone's jumped in with their own assumptions about the "cleaning" to be done. Some are talking about a regular, routine cleaning, while others talk about guns that have not been cleaned in a decade or more with hardened buildup and maybe even some oxidiation.
The material to be cleaned up is different (powder residue, copper, cosmoline, rust, etc.) and the surfaces involved are different (metal, wood, polymer, rubber, and so on). The "best" cleaners are therefore going to be different. All the suggestions are good suggestions and the choice depends on the condition of the firearm to be cleaned.
Also, kudos to those informed enough to warn about collateral damage to health and environment.
Sorry Regis, there is no final answer to this one...
The curious aspect of this thread is that everyone's jumped in with their own assumptions about the "cleaning" to be done. Some are talking about a regular, routine cleaning, while others talk about guns that have not been cleaned in a decade or more with hardened buildup and maybe even some oxidiation.
The material to be cleaned up is different (powder residue, copper, cosmoline, rust, etc.) and the surfaces involved are different (metal, wood, polymer, rubber, and so on). The "best" cleaners are therefore going to be different. All the suggestions are good suggestions and the choice depends on the condition of the firearm to be cleaned.
Also, kudos to those informed enough to warn about collateral damage to health and environment.
Sorry Regis, there is no final answer to this one...
It was doing damage the entire time, you just did not notice it.
Even ordinary ivory soap will damage aluminum surfaces long term.
The OH group on the lye in the soap eats aluminum.
Drano has lye and aluminum chips to create heat.
If it makes the aluminum nice and shiny it is removing material (at least the oxide layer).
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Even chlorinated cleaners will not harm steel.
Gun Scrubber was Trichloroethylene until use was restricted under the Montreal Protocol for possibly damaging the ozone layer.
Chlorinated solvents can be hard on aluminum though (and even cause fresh aluminum chips to burn).
Gun Scrubber was Trichloroethylene until use was restricted under the Montreal Protocol for possibly damaging the ozone layer.
Chlorinated solvents can be hard on aluminum though (and even cause fresh aluminum chips to burn).
jimmyraythomason
Member
It works great as a gun cleaner. I've used it for forty years. Trust ME.
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jimmyraythomason
Member
They were still in very good condition when they came off of the 10 year lease. I know because I had to inspect them ever 1500 hours. All 75 of them.
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