Curator
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big difference between black powder and (Chlorate)primers
Cleaning Black Powder Rifles After Shooting
- Thread starter TheAzn
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We used to have a saying, tongue in cheek that it was, for your match rifle (mine was an old Bob Tingle with a Douglas premium barrel) at the end of the season, clean it once a day for a week, once a week for a month, and then once a month.
I shot in a match in Burlington, IA., one hot, humid Sunday back after I got my Old Army. Thought I was being smart and had had Shockley nickle plate it. I put it in the case after the match, drove home (three hours), and about two hours later got it out to clean it. The nickle at the rear of the barrel and on the front of the cylinder had already started to etch.
Had it stripped and reblued.
Back then we used corrosive caps, black powder, and crisco, fluffo, or lubriplate over the balls.
Burlington was a great shoot with great prized and low entries. Steamboat days adjunct.
I shot in a match in Burlington, IA., one hot, humid Sunday back after I got my Old Army. Thought I was being smart and had had Shockley nickle plate it. I put it in the case after the match, drove home (three hours), and about two hours later got it out to clean it. The nickle at the rear of the barrel and on the front of the cylinder had already started to etch.
Had it stripped and reblued.
Back then we used corrosive caps, black powder, and crisco, fluffo, or lubriplate over the balls.
Burlington was a great shoot with great prized and low entries. Steamboat days adjunct.
Legionnaire
Contributing Member
I'm with kwhi43. I'm pretty new to muzzleloaders, but whether shooting my inline (Encore 209x50) or flintlock (Lyman Trade Rifle), I wipe between shots with a patch slightly dampened with a moose milk solution of Ballistol and water. When I'm done shooting, I'll run three or four saturated patches through the bore and wipe the breach off with the same solution. My understanding is that the Ballistol [strike]also neutralizes the corrosiveness of any remaining powder residue[/strike] protects the barrel from moisture, so a delay in detail cleaning shouldn't be a problem. Nevertheless, I clean carefully when I get home from the range, using hot water, then wiping down with a thin coat of straight Ballistol.
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scrat
Member
i swab between shots also at the range. However that means not a damn thing to me. When i get home guns are all taken apart and cleaned thoroughly. Then properly lubed up.
Most of the time i find people who say they swab between shots at the range then when they get home only have to put 2 or 3 patches through the gun are full of shieeet. tried it too many times. takes a lot more than 2 patches if you just swab the barrel. unless your color blind or something. Just man up and clean your guns.
Most of the time i find people who say they swab between shots at the range then when they get home only have to put 2 or 3 patches through the gun are full of shieeet. tried it too many times. takes a lot more than 2 patches if you just swab the barrel. unless your color blind or something. Just man up and clean your guns.
junkman_01
member
Black powder residue is NOT corrosive, but the water vapor it attracts is. It causes rust. :banghead::banghead::banghead:
How many times must this be said?
The original recipe for moose milk was: 16 oz water, 1 oz Lestoil, 2 oz Hydrogen Peroxide, and 1 or 2 oz soluble oil (water pump lube). Used on cleaning patches between shots, used on shotgun felt/fiber wads for trapshooting, and finally used for end of day cleaning, it was great. I think I'll go mix up a batch just for the smell of it.
mustanger
Member
Readingn this thread makes me want to mention what I have noticed, at auction sales here in this area. The black powder guns up for sale are filthy!!!! I shine my bore light down the barrel and the light doesn't penetrate for more than a couple inches. It's black down there. And a bit webby? The few I ended up buying, I got for a very low price. Worth taking a chance on. They all cleaned up just fine. After shooting I clean right away and thoroughly. That's me. I get all worreid, that they will turn to a pile of rust in a day or two. LOL. I can't believe how well they cleaned up when I first got them. I also can't believe how dirty they were at the auction. They are there to sell, I'd think they would get cleaned for that at least.
Driftwood Johnson
Member
Howdy
I will probably get my head handed to me for saying this, but I seldom clean my guns that have been shot with Black Powder the same day that they have been shot.
After a day of Cowboy shooting I have two revolvers, a rifle, and a shotgun to clean. After driving home for a couple of hours I am usually too tired to start cleaning right away.
In my experience, and I have been doing this for ten years now, Black Powder fouling is not as corrosive as many shooters believe. Part of the problem in the old days was the combination of corrosive primers and BP fouling. We don't use corrosive primers anymore, at least I don't, so corrosion not as much as a problem as it used to be.
I generally try to clean my guns within one week after shooting them with Black Powder. Yes, it gets just as humid in the summer where I live as anyplace else. I find that if I clean my guns within a week, I have no ill effects from leaving the BP fouling in the bore and in the chambers.
If I am just shooting one gun, for instance my Trapdoor, I will usually clean it at the range before I go home.
But after shooting four guns all day long, I seldom clean them the same day.
I will probably get my head handed to me for saying this, but I seldom clean my guns that have been shot with Black Powder the same day that they have been shot.
After a day of Cowboy shooting I have two revolvers, a rifle, and a shotgun to clean. After driving home for a couple of hours I am usually too tired to start cleaning right away.
In my experience, and I have been doing this for ten years now, Black Powder fouling is not as corrosive as many shooters believe. Part of the problem in the old days was the combination of corrosive primers and BP fouling. We don't use corrosive primers anymore, at least I don't, so corrosion not as much as a problem as it used to be.
I generally try to clean my guns within one week after shooting them with Black Powder. Yes, it gets just as humid in the summer where I live as anyplace else. I find that if I clean my guns within a week, I have no ill effects from leaving the BP fouling in the bore and in the chambers.
If I am just shooting one gun, for instance my Trapdoor, I will usually clean it at the range before I go home.
But after shooting four guns all day long, I seldom clean them the same day.
junkman_01
member
Get a rope!
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Here is a example of one of our pistols that is 23 years old and has been
cleaned only in my method of wiping it down at the range with water, dry, a little WD-40
and she's good to go. See any rust on it??
cleaned only in my method of wiping it down at the range with water, dry, a little WD-40
and she's good to go. See any rust on it??
col.lemat
Member
Junkman will tell you its a pos
Doc Rizzi
Member
Cleaning the Muzzle loader
I don't own an inline. But on the standard muzzle loader I remove the barrel and remove the nipple. I stand the barrell upright outside and pour hot (not boiling) water down the barrel (use a funnel...don't ask me how I know that) until it comes out clear from the nipple area. I blow out any remaining water with an air compressor. The residual heat from the hot water remains in the steel and will dry out the inside. I run a few patches through with some wonderlube. When they come out clean, the barrel is done. I use a pipe cleaner on the nipple, screw it back on and wipe it down with a rag using a little bit of wonderlube on the rag. I try to keep oil away from the inside of my barrel and nipple. I do oil the lock after cleaning that....just wipe it off well.
I don't own an inline. But on the standard muzzle loader I remove the barrel and remove the nipple. I stand the barrell upright outside and pour hot (not boiling) water down the barrel (use a funnel...don't ask me how I know that) until it comes out clear from the nipple area. I blow out any remaining water with an air compressor. The residual heat from the hot water remains in the steel and will dry out the inside. I run a few patches through with some wonderlube. When they come out clean, the barrel is done. I use a pipe cleaner on the nipple, screw it back on and wipe it down with a rag using a little bit of wonderlube on the rag. I try to keep oil away from the inside of my barrel and nipple. I do oil the lock after cleaning that....just wipe it off well.
junkman_01
member
No I won't. At least Phil cleans his guns. He can take care of mine anytime.
I don't swab my C&B revolvers or Howdah between shots. I shoot them purely for fun.
When I get home with them, they're filthy.
Maybe I should start. With humidity ranging from 90%-100% in the summer, mine will rust quickly if I don't clean and lube them when I get home.
When I get home with them, they're filthy.
Maybe I should start. With humidity ranging from 90%-100% in the summer, mine will rust quickly if I don't clean and lube them when I get home.
[email protected]
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If I'm nothing else here around the house, I AM the head gun cleaner
The first time I cleaned my Howdah, I didn't get it quite as clean as I thought.
A few days later, I looked down the bores and it had traces of light rust.
I broke out the vinegar Windex and re-cleaned the bores.
No rust since. I've used vinegar Windex for cleaning my BP guns ever since.
Vinegar Windex, followed by tap water as hot as I can get.
Then, I dry it and swab/wipe it down with Ballistol.
I use Bore Butter as a patch, bullet, and ball lube.
I used to swab/wipe them down with it, but Ballistol is easier to apply.
I am not an expert on anything, nor am I disagreeing with anyone here.
I'm only stating what I do, because it works for me. It may not work for anyone else.
I've thought about using 50/50 ethylene glycol antifreeze/water to clean them, but I don't like the way it smells.
Besides, windshield washer fluid is cheaper, as is vinegar Windex, and water is cheapest.
I sometimes use Simple Green/water, because I'm a big fan of SG. I like the smell.
A few days later, I looked down the bores and it had traces of light rust.
I broke out the vinegar Windex and re-cleaned the bores.
No rust since. I've used vinegar Windex for cleaning my BP guns ever since.
Vinegar Windex, followed by tap water as hot as I can get.
Then, I dry it and swab/wipe it down with Ballistol.
I use Bore Butter as a patch, bullet, and ball lube.
I used to swab/wipe them down with it, but Ballistol is easier to apply.
I am not an expert on anything, nor am I disagreeing with anyone here.
I'm only stating what I do, because it works for me. It may not work for anyone else.
I've thought about using 50/50 ethylene glycol antifreeze/water to clean them, but I don't like the way it smells.
Besides, windshield washer fluid is cheaper, as is vinegar Windex, and water is cheapest.
I sometimes use Simple Green/water, because I'm a big fan of SG. I like the smell.
longrifle346
Member
I was taught that "A man with rust on his gun is a man with no honor". If I'm just burning powder I don't clean between shots but if I'm shooting for accuracy or sight-in I shoot from a clean bore every time, every shot. Gives me a lot less to do when I get back inside to the bench.....
ThorinNNY
Member
Hi.I`m new to high road, but I`ve been shooting Muzzleladers for a long time now.I cleasn my muzzleladers as soon as i get home.There`s lots of different ways to clean a muzzle loader, but I prefer to remove the barrel and nipple and stand the barrel in a bucket. I heat up water, but first I pour a little cold water down the barrel. Then I use hot,soapy water.I swab it out good until patches come up clean, then run an oiled patch down the bore.
It takes maybe 20 minutes or a bit longer,but it`s traditional and it works well for me.
Other people use a cleaner made from formula 409, isopropyl alcohol, murphy`s oil soap
and get good results.
It takes maybe 20 minutes or a bit longer,but it`s traditional and it works well for me.
Other people use a cleaner made from formula 409, isopropyl alcohol, murphy`s oil soap
and get good results.
Fingers McGee
Member
I'm with Driftwood and I've been doing it for over 10 years as a CAS shooter and more than 20 years as a muzzleloader. The barrel on my Pedersoli Tryon rifle is only brown cause that's the way it was finished.
mustanger
Member
I have always heard about how corrosive black powder is. Sounded like your gun would turn to a pile of rust in seconds,( okey slight exageration) if you didn't clean it right away. Then I read here of your experiences, plus my own, (the above that I posted). The subs point out how they are less corrosive than bp. Okey here's a thought, how come bp comes in metal cans, and the subs come in plastic???
arcticap
Member
mustanger said:
Most black powder is being sold in plastic containers now.
Also, the corrosive byproducts are produced when black powder combusts, along with moisture which isn't a factor when it's still the container.
Six-Gun
Member
With my traditional, shooting Goex real BP, I will clean as soon as practical after I get home. I see no reason to tempt fate under normal circumstances. If I was on a week long hunt in the mountains, fired a shot and had no good way to break it down and clean it after firing, I wouldn't lose too much sleep over it, but I would still clean as soon as possible.
Now with my modern inline shooting Blackhorn 209? I don't really worry at all about it corroding anything after firing and have never any hint of rust after firing, even when I forgot to clean my T/C Omega for a week+. For the bad rap inlines get, combined with modern powders make for a handy and low maintenance affair for alternative and creative hunting tactics (for instance, hunting muzzeloader-only areas during rifle season perfectly legally) to get meat in the freezer. During muzzeloader season, I am all for the spirit and cleaning aggravation of traditional BP, but when I'm fighting with rifle hunters over heavily hit public land, I'll take the synthetic/inline combo all day long if it gets me access to the places where bubba is less likely to roam.
Now with my modern inline shooting Blackhorn 209? I don't really worry at all about it corroding anything after firing and have never any hint of rust after firing, even when I forgot to clean my T/C Omega for a week+. For the bad rap inlines get, combined with modern powders make for a handy and low maintenance affair for alternative and creative hunting tactics (for instance, hunting muzzeloader-only areas during rifle season perfectly legally) to get meat in the freezer. During muzzeloader season, I am all for the spirit and cleaning aggravation of traditional BP, but when I'm fighting with rifle hunters over heavily hit public land, I'll take the synthetic/inline combo all day long if it gets me access to the places where bubba is less likely to roam.
IIRC, chlorate primers are only corrosive because of the potassium chloride they creat and deposit in the gun when fired.
Potassium chloride is potassium salt. Salt is hydroscopic, therefore absorbing atmospheric moisture. The same reason BP residue causes/allows rust.
The fact that it's a chlorine compound prevents passivation of stainless steel alloys, and accelerates rust in non stainless alloys, because the alloy cannot develop a microscopic oxide layer on the surface to prevent further oxidation.
It's not like either one is spewing battery acid down the bore.
On a side note, I bought a Ruger Mini 30 in 1994. I got it for a sweet price (almost felt bad for paying that little) because it had been bought for the owner by her husband.
He had bought it for her so she could go deer hunting with him.
Turns out, she didn't enjoy freezing her butt off in a tree stand waiting for deer to come by.
I have no idea why, as the only thing better than sitting 20 feet up a tree waiting for venison on the hoof, is taking a nap 20 feet up a tree around 10:30 AM.
Anyway, her husband had shot it with Chicom corrosive ammo and had not cleaned the gas piston.
The gas piston was pitted, yet it was still 100% reliable.
I replaced the piston anyway.
I never had any problems with corrosive ammo, because I thoroughly cleaned the gun with BP solvent, and then Hoppes Bench Rest or Shooter's Choice solvent after I shot it.
Potassium chloride is potassium salt. Salt is hydroscopic, therefore absorbing atmospheric moisture. The same reason BP residue causes/allows rust.
The fact that it's a chlorine compound prevents passivation of stainless steel alloys, and accelerates rust in non stainless alloys, because the alloy cannot develop a microscopic oxide layer on the surface to prevent further oxidation.
It's not like either one is spewing battery acid down the bore.
On a side note, I bought a Ruger Mini 30 in 1994. I got it for a sweet price (almost felt bad for paying that little) because it had been bought for the owner by her husband.
He had bought it for her so she could go deer hunting with him.
Turns out, she didn't enjoy freezing her butt off in a tree stand waiting for deer to come by.
I have no idea why, as the only thing better than sitting 20 feet up a tree waiting for venison on the hoof, is taking a nap 20 feet up a tree around 10:30 AM.
Anyway, her husband had shot it with Chicom corrosive ammo and had not cleaned the gas piston.
The gas piston was pitted, yet it was still 100% reliable.
I replaced the piston anyway.
I never had any problems with corrosive ammo, because I thoroughly cleaned the gun with BP solvent, and then Hoppes Bench Rest or Shooter's Choice solvent after I shot it.
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