Just for my information, I would like to know how everyone cleans their powder fouled cases? I use a RCBS Vibrator Tumbler. Does some people use a liquid cleaner? How does the liquid cleaner work? Does is clean as good as a Vibrator Tumbler with Polish? I have just noticed that there is case cleaner on the market where you soak the cases around 5 minutes, it doesn't say how clean it gets the cases. It does state that it cleans the primer pocket, and inside the case. Just wondering if anyone here uses the liquid cleaner and is there any drawbacks to using liquid cleaner? How long does it take to dry the cases after cleaning with a liquid cleaner? I like the vibratory because you can let it run and walk away, then empty it into a sorter to separate the media from the cases, inspect the primer pocket holes for clogged media. Thank you, this is just for my information.
Cleaning Cases Question??
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Pat Riot
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I use my Midway vibrating tumbler with Lyman "green" corncob media. I used to add chrome polish when the media got old but found that it made the cases kind of sticky after a while.
I have not tried "wet cleaning" and probably won't.
Oh, and I leave the spent primers in my cases for cleaning.
I have not tried "wet cleaning" and probably won't.
Oh, and I leave the spent primers in my cases for cleaning.
roque5
Member
I also leave the spent primers in, From the range in goes the dirty cases into the vibratory cleaner, turn it on and walk away, simple, effective and easy. The liquid sounds to complicated and the stainless steel pins? Not for me, If I want cleaner/shiny brass I just leave it in longer.
Blue68f100
Member
If your wanting to clean the inside of the case and/or the primer pocket you will need to go to a wet system. aka FART. This uses SS pins. The home brew most are using is ArmorAll Wash & Wax and Lime-Shine (citric acid). The acid turns the hazardous lead compounds to a salt making it safe to handle and dispose of. The soap does 2 things, suspends the dirt and add a layer of wax to retard tarnishing.
GeoDudeFlorida
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Frankford Arsenal vibrator. Plain corn cob straight from the range to get them clean enough to handle then treated walnut after decapping and resizing to get the crud out of the insides and primer pockets. I check them by hand and clean, chamfer, all that stuff with hand tools after they're clean enough not to stain my fingers. Takes about an hour with corn and another hour with walnut before I really want to handle them a lot. Black powder cartridges get a bath in Dawn + ammonia + water before going into untreated kitty litter to dry them, then corn, then decap/resize, then inspection and fixes, etc.
CQB45ACP
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Holy cr**! That is the most labor intensive process I’ve seen—ammonia?
Mostly, I use a Frankford wet tumbler with Dawn & Lemishine and stainless pins after I decap. Tumble for two hours to ensure pockets are cleaned. (Sometimes I use Frankford’s packets instead of Dawn/Lemishine- works better but costs more.)
When I want a super shine I then dry vibratory tumble in corncob with flitz liquid or one shot.
AJC1
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I like wet tumblers for clean brass and reduced exposure to hazardous chemicals.
CQB45ACP
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Me too until I pour out the toxic glop down the drain to your house.
GeoDudeFlorida
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Only for black powder. Mostly .38S&W, .32S&W, .45-70Govt, and .30US (.30-40 Krag). No need for water with smokeless.
Hondo 60
Member
For well over 10 years I used to tumble with 20/40 corn cob.
(small enuff to NOT stick in the flash hole)
But over the last 5 years or so I started wet tumbling.
With the right mix they look like 98% new.
(small enuff to NOT stick in the flash hole)
But over the last 5 years or so I started wet tumbling.
With the right mix they look like 98% new.
I mostly dry tumble with a vibrating tumbler and ground walnut hulls. As the media ages, I might add a capful of Nufinish car polish.
I usually am reloading in the evening so when I shut down for the night, I turn the tumbler on and let it run during the night. The last few years, I added a timer to shut the tumbler down after four or five hours. But you have to remember to process the cases in the morning after the tumbler was shut off because you will have spots on the cases from sitting still in the media.
I also have the equipment to wet tumble with ss pins. Much less tumbling time but pre tumbling work and post tumbling work more intensive than dry tumbling. The cases do look good afterwards.
I usually am reloading in the evening so when I shut down for the night, I turn the tumbler on and let it run during the night. The last few years, I added a timer to shut the tumbler down after four or five hours. But you have to remember to process the cases in the morning after the tumbler was shut off because you will have spots on the cases from sitting still in the media.
I also have the equipment to wet tumble with ss pins. Much less tumbling time but pre tumbling work and post tumbling work more intensive than dry tumbling. The cases do look good afterwards.
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runner3264
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I have a Dillon 550C for loading and a Lee single stage press just for de-priming. I de-prime on the Lee then I put my cases in a Frankford Arsenal tumbler with, here's the secret, 1.5 ounces of Hornady One-Shot Case cleaner for 500 cases. Tumble for 1.5 hours and you have the perfectly cleaned cases and primer pockets. Last time I'm giving this secret. Much better than Dawn and Lemi-shine! Use it as you will! If you go with 1k cases then use 2.5 oz. This is also with the use of SS pins. I know this is more expensive than the other combo but you will not be disappointed! Let me know your feedback!
I wet tumble large amounts of brass using Dawn & lemi-shine I don’t know what is toxic about that. I normally tumble about 1500 9mm at a time most of the time they come clean inside & out without ss pins.
I tumble in media, corn or walnut or a combination - whatever I find first in my stuff - don't think to much about it. Then deprime and prep the brass etc. I then put the brass in a container and wash it with hot soapy water and rinse. I tried this once, and the amount of media that came out of the brass made me think it is a good idea, but probably makes no noticable difference in how the rounds function. Drain, and tumble the brass around lightly to get the bulk of the water out, put in over for an hour a 250, and that goes into a container to be loaded.
BigAlShooter
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I throw all the dirty brass into my Lyman tumbler with Petco reptile walnut media for about 4 hours. I check it and if still not clean, let it go another hour or so. I filter out the brass and then sort the brass and put the brass into ziplock bags for reloading later. I later size it and then clean the primer pockets with a primer pocket cleaner.
I have a decapping station using one of Lee's cheapest press and their universal decapping die in the garage. I decap all range brass or my brass first and use a sonic cleaner for about 30 minutes. Gets the job done. If I wanted shiny brass than I'll run the clean brass on my Lyman tumbler and I use walnut.
Ranger99
Member
I use the same old ugly green RCBS vibratory tumbler I bought used some decades back.
I had to repair the wires the other day and I guess it'll be good for a few more decades.
I use out of 2 5 gallon buckets of walnut hull
that I fished out of a dumpster years back.
I've probably used 1/3 of 1 of the buckets
so far.
I decap with a Lee universal die and run em
through the media.
JMHO- I still can't figure why so many have
difficulty with the 1 1/2 seconds it takes to properly clean a primer pocket the old
fashioned way, or what's wrong with meticulously inspecting each case before working them up to load
If not for my practice of close inspection,
I'd have probably missed this bad case
when loading a few days ago
I had to repair the wires the other day and I guess it'll be good for a few more decades.
I use out of 2 5 gallon buckets of walnut hull
that I fished out of a dumpster years back.
I've probably used 1/3 of 1 of the buckets
so far.
I decap with a Lee universal die and run em
through the media.
JMHO- I still can't figure why so many have
difficulty with the 1 1/2 seconds it takes to properly clean a primer pocket the old
fashioned way, or what's wrong with meticulously inspecting each case before working them up to load
If not for my practice of close inspection,
I'd have probably missed this bad case
when loading a few days ago
Similar to what I do except...
One nice concept of the Hornady L-N-L since it uses individual die bushings instead of a die plate, I can easily install only the dies I need for the task at hand.
For fired handgun cases, I only install the sizer and expander dies and run the cases through the press. I then tumble clean them and set them aside for a future reloading session. It just takes a few minutes to size and expand a 100 cases this way.
When I have enough cases or need to do a reloading session, the sizing process is complete and I can concentrate on the powder charge and bullet seating part of the process.
CryptKeeper5
Member
For very dirty brass I go "wet" in my "Thumbler Tumbler" with Dawn and Lemi-shine using stainless steel rods. For fairly clean brass I simply toss them in the old Lyman with walnut hull and turn on for a couple of hours. I decap in my dedicated de capping die before cleaning.
Bandit67
Member
When I started reloading I used a vibratory tumbler with corn cob. I would be careful not to breathe in the toxic dust. When I loaded my "clean" brass my press and my hands would still get dirty.
I was reluctant to try wet tumbling but I finally gave in when I found a FART on sale at a great price. Picked up a lyman case dryer for $20 in the Bargain cave at Cabelas which is basically a food dehydrator. Figured out a good system to seperate the pins using the 5 gallon bucket with disposable paint strainer method.
45 minutes to an hour in the tumbler, 5 minutes to seperate the pins and into the dryer for a couple hours.
Brass looks new inside and out, presses and hands stay clean. My clean beautiful ammo doesn't shoot any better but it sure makes me smile.
I was reluctant to try wet tumbling but I finally gave in when I found a FART on sale at a great price. Picked up a lyman case dryer for $20 in the Bargain cave at Cabelas which is basically a food dehydrator. Figured out a good system to seperate the pins using the 5 gallon bucket with disposable paint strainer method.
45 minutes to an hour in the tumbler, 5 minutes to seperate the pins and into the dryer for a couple hours.
Brass looks new inside and out, presses and hands stay clean. My clean beautiful ammo doesn't shoot any better but it sure makes me smile.
I do not use tumblers or ultrasonic or anything like that. instead i put my brass in a 1 gal bottle, add water, salt and dishsoap. shake the bottle and let it sit for 30 minutes. then add vinegar, wait for 2 minutes, remove and wash the brass. it comes out very clean, maybe even cleaner than you get from your tumbler.
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