dhoomonyou
Member
Either on the breechface or around the forcing cone?
thanks.
thanks.
Cleaning Question: how many of you use a bronze brush?
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Model520Fan
Member
Never needed to, that I recall. Hoppe's #9 on a large patch, or a drop or two around the rear of the barrel, and an old toothbrush. I've always used an old toothbrush first, but I wouldn't hesitate to use a bronze brush if needed, particularly around the rear of the barrel.
Keep an eye out for shed bristles.
Keep an eye out for shed bristles.
Starter52
Member
I use one for the chambers of my .38/.357 revolvers after a long session of firing lead bullets. It does a good job. I also scrap it over the back of the forcing cone a couple times.
I don't use a bronze or copper brush in the bore. Cleaning patches and solvent do the job there.
I don't use a bronze or copper brush in the bore. Cleaning patches and solvent do the job there.
rbernie
Contributing Member
I use 'em all the time on the bore and chamber of every firearm that I own, as well as on the breechface and forcing cone of my revos.
I have never had any degree of joy trying to clean the goombah around the forcing cone, for example, using just solvent or solvent plus a nylon brush. The only way to get them remotely close to clean is to use solvent plus a bronze brush (usually a big-bore chamber brush that's already at the end of its useful life) held in my hand. I clean the cylinder face the same way, and chuck up a bronze brush in a cordless drill to clean the carbon rings from the cylinder chambers.
I have never had any degree of joy trying to clean the goombah around the forcing cone, for example, using just solvent or solvent plus a nylon brush. The only way to get them remotely close to clean is to use solvent plus a bronze brush (usually a big-bore chamber brush that's already at the end of its useful life) held in my hand. I clean the cylinder face the same way, and chuck up a bronze brush in a cordless drill to clean the carbon rings from the cylinder chambers.
I am a brush user in all my firearms.
I use nylon with copper solvents in my rifles and bronze when useing regular solvents on carbon or lead fouling. With proper use they are no more damageing to the bore then jacketed bullets and make cleaning much faster, especially in the corners of the land/grooves.
I use nylon with copper solvents in my rifles and bronze when useing regular solvents on carbon or lead fouling. With proper use they are no more damageing to the bore then jacketed bullets and make cleaning much faster, especially in the corners of the land/grooves.
Carl N. Brown
Member
Breech face and forcing cone: toothbrush and Hoppe's No. 9
When using a bore brush, be sure that the rod or the brush
is free to rotate with the rifling: dragging a fixed bore brush
across the lands diagonally does no good in cleaning and may
wear the edges of the lands.
1st pass on bore's, be they pistol or rifle, get's a combination carbon fouling, copper fouling solvent. Then a nylon brush because the copper solvent eats up bronze brushes. Next pass gets Breakfree CLP and a bronze brush. In both passes after the brush cotton swabs are used until they come out clean.
On the 1st pass after a good scrubbing and swabbing until the pach comes clean an inspection with a bore light shows no copper and a bright shiny bore.
Then the bronze brushing after a few minutes soaking in CLP always results in the cotton swabs coming out pure black like I'd not cleaned anything out the first time around. I've never understood that. BUT if I use a nylon brush with the CLP on the 2nd pass instead of the bronze one it only takes one or two patches 'till they come out clean. Using the bronze brush it takes 5 or 6 patches 'till they come out clean. I figure a bronze brush breaks more crud loose than a nylon one does.
So YES! I use bronze brushes. They work and work well - better than nylon and since bronze is much softer than steel I don't imagine they do any damage.
On the 1st pass after a good scrubbing and swabbing until the pach comes clean an inspection with a bore light shows no copper and a bright shiny bore.
Then the bronze brushing after a few minutes soaking in CLP always results in the cotton swabs coming out pure black like I'd not cleaned anything out the first time around. I've never understood that. BUT if I use a nylon brush with the CLP on the 2nd pass instead of the bronze one it only takes one or two patches 'till they come out clean. Using the bronze brush it takes 5 or 6 patches 'till they come out clean. I figure a bronze brush breaks more crud loose than a nylon one does.
So YES! I use bronze brushes. They work and work well - better than nylon and since bronze is much softer than steel I don't imagine they do any damage.
stevelyn
Member
I clean with MPro-7. A bronze brush isn't used or needed anywhere but the bore.
Cosmoline
Member
You patch and solvent guys must be using some super clean ammo I'm not aware of. I always seem to need a brush.
Standing Wolf
Member in memoriam
Brushes are a lot less expensive than guns.
actually, irv stone of www.barsto.com says otherwise in this video:
Bar-sto Precision Machined Barrels
he basically says that barrels measure in the 40-50 range on the rockwell hardness scale and the steel used in steel bore brushes don't even register on the rockwell scale since they are so soft. so they are safe to use.
Dionysusigma
Member
Teaching Mario some CQB with a revolver, eh?
ChickenHawk
Member
I clean my guns every time I shoot them.
I use a bronze brush which I squirted first with CLP through the barrel (usually about 6 times). Then I pass a bore snake through one time to insure I'm not leaving much CLP in there (I'm always concerned it'll seep into my primers since I carry one in the chamber).
I clean the rest of the gun with cleaning patches, q-tips and CLP.
All my guns still look like new. And I shoot a lot.
Cheers,
ChickenHawk
I use a bronze brush which I squirted first with CLP through the barrel (usually about 6 times). Then I pass a bore snake through one time to insure I'm not leaving much CLP in there (I'm always concerned it'll seep into my primers since I carry one in the chamber).
I clean the rest of the gun with cleaning patches, q-tips and CLP.
All my guns still look like new. And I shoot a lot.
Cheers,
ChickenHawk
Kamicosmos
Member
I use 'em. They work great on the cylinder faces. I also use them on auto slides and breechfaces.
Mr Kablammo
Member
I was cleaning semi-autos with a nylon brush & H' 9 but no matter how many passes there was always residue left. Finally I switched to brass and it worked 'like magic'. Unfortunately, there seem to be scratches in one barrel and this is disturbing as the modern steel should be much harder than softer brass.
I was a barrel distributor for Green Mountain barrels.
Bronze brushes do not hurt.
Trust me stainless brushes will mark steel
Being an 07 manufacturer, I have never found bronze to bother a barrel. The rod will hurt the barrel if not of the proper size and of hard steel so crap does not imbed into it.
Bronze brushes do not hurt.
Trust me stainless brushes will mark steel
Being an 07 manufacturer, I have never found bronze to bother a barrel. The rod will hurt the barrel if not of the proper size and of hard steel so crap does not imbed into it.
VARifleman
Member
I'm a target shooter and use a brass brush and dewey brass rod (NOT a coated rod) to clean my anschutz. It works real well. Patches will not get lead out of the barrel and brushes are safer than lead solvent if using non-coated ammo.
I am still wondering how anyone tested the hardness of the wires in a stainless brush.
The normal indent test is not goiung to work on such a small section, and testig the material before forming will not take into account any hardening that occurs during drawing into wire.
While stainless does not typically harden as nicely as other steels, it still does become harder with work.
The normal indent test is not goiung to work on such a small section, and testig the material before forming will not take into account any hardening that occurs during drawing into wire.
While stainless does not typically harden as nicely as other steels, it still does become harder with work.
aerod1
Member
I use a bronze brush every where unless I am using copper solvent. So far I have never had a problem.
VARifleman
Member
brickeyee, there are several other [destructive] tests you can use.
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