CMP M1 Garand problem

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jrfoxx

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Took my new CMP Greek FG Garand out for the 1st time today had have a problem.6 out of the 8 rounds I tried, would not even attempt to eject (weren't backed out AT ALL).The other 2 did fine.I'm using CMP reek HXP surplus ammo made in 77 (based on headstamp).To make things even odder, the 6 that failed to eject, the gun didnt try to chamber a new round (as far as I could tell anyway).The 2 that did eject, chambered a new round aferwards.Spent casings all look fine/normal, and I could easily get the fired caes out with my fingernails.Extacter looks ok, but I guess asie from bein broken, I personally might not be able to tell.All the correct spots had been greased, as per the army manual, with milspec grease.only thing I can see on the brass is one side only has a TINY extractor mark, the other side has what I would think is a "normal" lookng mark on 1 case only, the rest have only "scuffs" for extractor marks.Manually cycleing the bolt also desnt extract.Any Ideas?
 
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Does the rifle extract and eject when cycled by hand? From your description it is hard to tell. If it will cycle by hand, then I would inspect the operating rod or the gas cylinder.
 
Give it a really good bath(especially the gas system) and change ammo. If that doesn't fix it, call the CMP. Their customer service is excellent from the repost I see elsewhere.
 
jlmurphy--sorry, you're right, poor wording did make that unclear.I've edited the origonal post.When I meant I could remove the brass by hand, I meant with my fingernails.Manually cycling the bolt had no effect.

Sunray-I had field stripped and compltely degreased and re oiled/greased it when I got it.May need a complete tear down and clean though...
I will also try out some other ammo, but most people seem to use this same tuff without issues.....(sarcasm/ maybe I'm just a luck guy /sarcasm)

The more I look at the spent brass, the more I keep thinking extractor. Just seems like most of them have too little, (to almost no) extractor marks....
 
Clean beneath the extractor claw. If the dirt is too built up, the extractor can't snap over the rim and extract the cartridge. It may also be the extractor spring is too weak and when the bolt goes back, the extractor "gives" to readily, leaving the cartridge in the chamber.
 
It sounds like the bolt isn't moving back far enough for the spent round to eject and the next round to feed. Id suspect the gas system. Disassemble your rifle, clean the operating rod and gas cylinder, since you have your rifle apart, unscrew the gas lug, as well as the gas cylinder lock. Take the Gas cylinder lock off of the rifle and check that the hole in the barrel where the gas comes into the gas cylinder is clear. If it is slightly clogged, that could produce the conditions you are experiencing. An ex GI friend of mine told me that in basic they use to put a single drop of lubricating oil in the gas cylinder after the rifle was reassembled (The garand uses a dry gas cylinder, but he said this helped with reliability) the key was just only use ONE drop. You also might want to post a duplicate post in the gunsmith section Congrats on your new Garand.

I wouldnt suspect the extractor, because even if it didnt extract the round, when the bolt comes forward it would still strip a round and try to feed it, jaming it into the back of the spent case, feeding wouldnt be effected by a bad extractor.
 
After reading the posts I'm still confused.

If the rifle is not extracting, something is wrong with the extractor. The extractor system on these rifles normally works very good and is quit tough. A dirt chamber will sometimes effect extraction, but I've not seen it happen.

The not chambering a new round bothers me too. I would be making sure the gas cly, gas cly lock and gas cly screw valve is all bottomed out and tight. Sometimes (like in always) the gas cly lock will go past the threaded area for the gas cly screw valve (plug) and need to be turned back a bit. Most peple use a large flat tip screw driver to tighten the Gas cly screw valve. Try a 1/4 extension on a 1/4 in ratchet.

A worn op rod spring will mess with extraction and feeding as well. Did you clean all the junk out of the inside of the op rod?
 
I had a similar problem once. Mine turned out to be the gas cylinder was'nt seated ( a small piece of crud, missed during the initial cleaning). Found and removed it and alll was well. It was surprisingly small, so don't blow off any suggestions of a good cleaning and lub. HTH.
Nothing is more frustrating than to shoot a single shot M1.
 
I plan on looking at it tonight, now that I'm off for the week.(13hr night shifts cut into one's free time BAD :().I will definitely post aything I find.Hope to be able to try shooting it again tomorrow (weather depending.Oregon has WAY too much rain in the spring :().I'm optomistic though, as I got some good advice here on what to look for, and y'all havent let me down yet....(no pressure though :))
 
Here are some questions:

1. Is the rifle re-cocking itself? If not, then it is clearly short-stroking and may not even be unlocking at all. This indicates a gas system failure.

2. Is the rifle attempting to feed a fresh cartridge? If so, the stroke is fine, and the extractor is probably at fault.
 
There is a quick and simple way to check your gas system. Single load and fire about 20 rounds. If the bolt locks to the rear each shot the gas system is fine.
 
I had trouble with short cycling before. Had a bent op rod once and replaced the op rod spring the other time. I have gone ahead and put a new op rod spring in all my rifles.

Never had extractor problems. I bought some spares anyway though.
 
Re: CMP Greek HXP ammo:

I'm another who has had no issues at all with the Greek HXP ammo. I started out using Lake City M2 ball, and now I'm on my second case of Greek ammo. As far as I can tell, it's very good stuff. Years are '62 and '73, though; I haven't shot any '77.

I'd keep looking at the rifle.

You wrote,
The more I look at the spent brass, the more I keep thinking extractor. Just seems like most of them have too little, (to almost no) extractor marks....
I see clear, heavy extractor marks on my fired brass.
 
Well, for those interested, I have solved the extraction problem...The extractor spring and extractor spring plunger are missing!!!I noticed I could move the extractor around with no resistance, regardless of whether the ejector was pressed in or not, so looking closely, there is simply a hole where the extractor spring and plunger should be!
What a bummer...Well, looks like I'll be ordering the GI combo tool (just to make bolt disassmbly easier, especially since I've never done it) and an extractor spring and plunger.Guess I'll have to wait to shoot it another week or so....:(
As far as the failing to strip and attempt to load a new round, I think P-32 may have been right.It looked like the gas clinder lock was screwed in too far, and MAY have been partilly blocking the gas port, so I backed it up 1 turn.Also, the gas cylinder lock screw may not have been tight enough, so I snugged it down good.
Thank you all for all the help, I appreciate it as always.I will update here when I get my parts installed and have tested it .that way it can satisfy ayones curiosity and serve as referance in case smeone else ever has similar problems.If these dont fix the problems you will DEFINITELY be hearing from me again, looking for more help.(hopefully that doesnt happen though) :)
Thanks again.Such a wealth of knowledge here....how did people ever fix guns without this place?
 
If you have the cash, it might be good to go ahead and get some extra spare parts while you are at it.
 
...looks like I'll be ordering the GI combo tool (just to make bolt disassmbly easier, especially since I've never done it)
What--you don't want to gouge your index finger with a screwdriver blade the way I did the first time I disassembled an M1 bolt? :neener:

I got better. ;)

Glad that you found the apparent cause. I look forward to your range report.
 
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