Cock on close to cock on open conversion

Hi everyone, I have a 1935 Turkish mauser and when I ordered it online I didn’t realize some Gewehr 98s were cock on close. I know a couple places where I can get it converted but what would be an average price for something like this getting done? I’m sure there’s another thread about this somewhere but I couldn’t find one, thanks!

 

Why would you want to? Old school, I know, but you can pull the trigger, and keep it back as you close the bolt, it will bypass the cocking function on an open bolt and ease the bolt down on a chambered round and not fire the round, When the game appears, lift and drop the bolt and shoot the animal. I have an Enfield 1914 that works that way.

 

I don't know of any Mauser 98 that is cock on closing. But the Turks worked over and "updated" so many rifles that the original rifle could be almost anything. Cock on closing rifles can be converted to cock on opening, but require a stiff mainspring because they really fire from a "half cock" position with only a short firing pin movement.

Jim

 

Boom Boom, your mainspring is not the original. The extra stiff mainspring came with the D-T trigger because, as I noted above, the rifle would not be reliable firing off the half cock position with the standard mainspring. To return the rifle to original specs (assuming nothing else has been done to it) you will need a standard mainspring.

Jim

 

I think I have a 1903 type model. As you can see in the pictures I have the raised stripper clip “ramp” or whatever it’s called, my hand guard is also short for my rifle which from what I’ve researched, the 1903 mausers receiver is shorter.

 

The only tool necessary to dismantle the P14 Enfield bolt is a loop of string, which you hook onto the cocking-piece. Raise it, and you can hold it slightly back and unscrew.

I didn't have anything against cock-on-closing, which if anything cushions the wrist against jarring, but I wanted the Dayton-Traister speelock, which just happens to end up cock-on-opening, and their single-stage trigger. Even with the stronger spring supplied, it needs to lift the cocking-piece quite a bit more than to the notch on the rear of the bolt which prevents a slamfire on the unaltered version, if something interferes with sear engagement. So you have to deepen the camming notch in the bolt (Dremel tool with carbide burr), and fit the new cocking-piece with a longer forward extension which engages with it.

A complication I found was that the safety (one of the best on any firearm, and far too good to replace with a trigger safety) would no longer engage in the little hook-shaped notch in the new cocking-piece. So I removed a tiny amount of metal from the lip of that notch, with the Dremel and a fine dental burr. I ended up engaging or disengaging in complete silence, which it didn't before, and still lifting the cocking-piece the very slight amount that is essential for safety.

If the safety doesn't lift the cocking-piece, and you pull the trigger while the rifle is on safe, there may not be room for the sear to rise back into place when it is released. The rifle becomes an accident ready to happen when the safety is disengaged. Of course we would never point the rifle in an unsafe direction as we did that... would we? But two steps away from disaster are better than one.