Collet Bullet Pullers

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9mmepiphany

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I've been exploring bullet pullers and thought I'd start gathering opinions...I didn't realize when I started reloading that it was such a gadget hobby :eek:

Before we go there...yes, I already have an inertia puller.

I started looking at the one by RCBS ($22 at Midway and Amazon; collets $12) and then the one by Hornady ($23; collets $10). Then I happened across the one by Forster for a bit less ($17; collets $12)

To my untrained eye, the RCBS and Forster look like they work about the same. So then It comes down to $5 and perceived quality...I've always heard that Forster had better QC than RCBS.

The Hornady looks like a better thought out design than the RCBS as the Cam Lock holds the depth setting when you release the pulled bullet.

So now I'm trying to make a choice between the Forster and the Hornady...price, build quality, and convenience

Are my perceptions accurate?
Am I missing something?
 
I use 3 of the RCBS units with all the 'normal' collets. I keep one in each Redding turret head. I plan to replace the non-sliding T (L) handle with a stainless socket-head cap screw and allen wrench to allow operation even in a crowded Redding turret head full of dies. This is the only issue I would note. Works perfectly as long as there's enough bullet to grip. You'll still need a hammer-type when there's not enough bullet to grip. Not enough means too pointy or too short to grab.
 
I had recently purchased the RCBS model from Amazon with the appropriate collet for pulling 9mm bullets, figuring that there must be a better way than using the inertia puller, which I've been using for 20 years. I had 2 open stations in the head of my Redding T7 press, and I was hoping the collet puller would permanently occupy one of the open stations. I also considered the Hornaday, but thought I would save a couple of bucks...
After a single set up and use, I returned the item for the folowing reasons:
1. The RCBS adjustment does not work well (difficult but not impossible) when using on a tool head with adjacent dies. The method of adjusting to get the collet to grip the bullet has the die lever banging into the adjacent die bodies. The solution is to use this on a single stage press, or get the Hornaday cam lock set up.
2. Most of my 9mm loadings are plated or coated bullets. The minimal gripping force of the collet needed to pull the bullets deformed both. I believe these types of pullers are designed primarily for pulling jacketed bullets (my assumption). Using them on hard cast lead is probably also a non issue as there is nothing covering the bullet where exposing the lead core may be of concern.
Otherwise, the tool worked well and I will consider getting another, but it will be the cam lock - and I will just mount it on a cheap single stage press dedicated for that function. Hope this helps.
 
Bought the RCBS collet bullet puller only with .224 and .308 collets. It works great, doesn't mar the bullets or the tips of the bullets, keeps the powder in the case and not all over the place like with an impact puller. Could kick myself for loading for 25 years without a collet puller. I can only give high marks for the RCBS puller BUT if I were to order again I would go with the Hornady Cam Lock which is faster and more convenient than turning the handle on the RCBS. The handle is a little rough on your hands too after pulling a few hundred bullets. I don't think you'll find Forster to be better quality than RCBS or Hornady. Forster does make some very nice equipment but most of the time RCBS or Hornady is on par with the Forster products. Depends on exactly what product you pick.
 
I use the RCBS - no problems

I have used the RCBS several times with no issue in a single stage Rockchucker. I prefer to just take my time so someone with a large quantity to pull might prefer something different.

I have no issues with plated pistol bullets deforming and reloaded them with no issues.
 
Hornady works fine for me

I use the Hornady collet puller for 223 Remington as the inertia puller I use for pistol calibers takes way too much pounding for 223 Rem. 55 gr bullets. The Hornady puller does a great job, easily pulling the 223 bullets without damaging them.
 
My puller came with instructions to use it in a single-stage press, and to not try it on soft lead bullets. It works just fine with jacketed, plated, and hard lead bullets.
 
I have the Hornady cam lock and use it in a dedicated tool head on my Dillon 650 at station 4. Bought it because of 400 300BLK subsonic rounds that were good in initial testing that I later decided I didn't like so much. It worked great and was fast.

One thing I discovered was that raising the round to just the right height without smashing into the edge of the neck was a pain. So I made a spacer from some scrap PVC pipe that snaps over the Dillon's main shaft below the press to limit the upward travel. If you do multiple calibers, you could make a spacer for each caliber and never have to adjust the puller die.
 
Thank you all for the input.

I decided to go with the convenience and speed of the Hornady Cam Loc...just ordered from Amazon and it will be here on Monday.

While it is initially more expensive than the Forster or the RCBS, not having to readjust after pulling each bullet just seemed more efficient. The price of the collets also played a role in the decision. At a price difference of $3/collet, it wouldn't take long to make up the difference in price between the tools...I'd expect to eventually get a collet for each caliber I reload
 
Good choice.:cool: I have had one for years and like it. The Cam Lock is the reason I originally purchased it over the others and never have had a problem with it when adjusted correctly. I do use my hammer puller for pistol bullets as any collet puller will work poorly with them due to lack of straight area to grip outside the brass. I have collets in 224, 6MM, 7MM, 270, 308, 35 CAL, and 44 CAL. I have not needed anything else so far. I found that the 308 will work for .308, 310, and 311, bullets. When removing sealed bullets if you push the projectile in a small bit before you try to remove it things come apart MUCH easier.;)
 
No "Readjustment" Necessary

I use the RCBS puller in a single stage press (this is a perfect example of why I will ALWAYS have a single stage press - would never consider doing this job with a turret or progressive press).

With the correct collet for the bullet you are pulling, operation could not be more simple. Insert loaded round, raise ram, use thumb of free hand to turn puller handle between 1/8 - 1/4 turn (minor movement, more is never needed), and drop ram. After removing case with powder, turn puller handle back the same amount using right hand while bullet drops into left hand under the die. Repeat.

I do use my hammer puller for pistol bullets as any collet puller will work poorly with them due to lack of straight area to grip outside the brass.
This is incorrect information. A collet puller works perfectly for any type of bullet other than a flush wad cutter. Tapered bullets, such as SWC, pose no problem at all; you just need to use a smaller collet that matches the diameter of the taper where you want the collet to grip. For example, pulling .40 SWC bullets is generally very simple by using a .35 caliber collet.
 
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My experience with the RCBS has been the same as Mauser69.No problems works fine.I really don't see how the Hornady Cam-Lock could work any better.I use a single stage press.
 
9mmepiphany said:
I decided to go with the convenience and speed of the Hornady Cam Loc...just ordered from Amazon and it will be here on Monday.

I'm late to the party, but I think you will like the Hornady.

Many moons ago I bought some Mil-Surp ammo that had bad primers, and rather than toss it, decided to at least salvage the bullets. So that was the reason for going with Hornady - once you get it setup right (a little adjusting to the bullet to get a firm enough grip), its quick and easy.
 
wild willy said:
I really don't see how the Hornady Cam-Lock could work any better.I use a single stage press.
I'll know more once I get it, but I imagine it would be similar to the difference between screwing in a die and using a twist-on bushing system.

I plan to use it on a single stage also. I have a Lee Classic Cast set up to accept the Hornady Bushings
 
You only turn the handle a little bit.I think people that haven't used one think you turn it a full turn or more that's not how it works
 
I have to admit then that the YouTube videos are a bit misleading
I generally do not look at Youtube for anything - any goober with a cell phone camera who just gets off on having people look at him can make a video of himself misusing a tool. I get a kick out of how people think that just 'cause they found something on youtube, it must be an authoritative source! (No insult to you intended, it is just that I see it all the time.)

Once you get a collet puller and examine it closely, this should make a lot more sense. First, realize that a collet puller is not like a remote gripper that opens wide and then squeezes down like your fingers to grab something - the collet has very thin slits and it is not intended to be squeezed much at all. We are talking a matter of hundredths of an inch squeeze - very small.

That is why it is important to have a range of different sized collets - you must start with one that is very close to the exact size of the bullet where you intend to grip it. If the collet is too big and you really crank down on it, you will bend the metal fingers so much that the collet cannot spring back and release the bullet when you loosen it.

When the collet die is properly adjusted, the bullet will generally just touch the inside of the collet when you raise the ram (it makes no difference if you raise the ram all the way or not - just stop when you feel the bullet touch). At this point, whatever mechanism the die uses to tighten the collet only needs to move the lightest amount to grip the bullet. With the RCBS puller, this turn is always less than 1/4 turn.

While I do not own the Hornady puller, I initially did like the look of it and the concept for the cam-lock lever. But knowing what I do now, I imagine that the Hornady tool would be a big PIA to properly adjust compared to the RCBS puller. It is important to NOT over-tighten the collet on the bullet if you do not want to mar it. The RCBS design allows you to instantly feel how much grip it has as you tighten it, and if you run into a round that does not want to come loose, it is a simple matter to raise the ram back up and tighten it just a bit more. I imagine the cam-lock design needs to be adjusted so the lever gets moved the same amount every time, all the way to the cammed and locked position - if that is true, there would be no simple way to apply just a slight amount more grip on a stubborn bullet.

One final note just to reiterate what I have already said - with any collet puller, if the collet is so big that the bullet just rattles around inside of it even when fully inserted, you are using the WRONG collet.
 
Mauser69 said:
I get a kick out of how people think that just 'cause they found something on youtube, it must be an authoritative source!
Well, to be fair, it wasn't just any source.

What I used to compare the two pullers was an article on Accurate Shooters.com: How to Use Press-Mounted Bullet Pullers

I have to admit that the RCBS was never in the running. The Forster puller worked on the same principle, is usually of equal (if not better quality) and was less expensive.

I imagine the cam-lock design needs to be adjusted so the lever gets moved the same amount every time, all the way to the cammed and locked position - if that is true, there would be no simple way to apply just a slight amount more grip on a stubborn bullet.
I was just thinking the opposite.

Either way, I'll update this thread when it gets here later today
 
OK, you made me go look . . .

The Hornady puller video does look like it operates better than I imagined - maybe the bullet grip is easily adjustable by how much you pull down on the lever? Hopefully it also gives good tactile feedback so you can tell just how much you are applying each time.

The dude in the RCBS video definitely has terrible technique with that tool.

I look forward to your update with actual experience.
 
Mauser69 said:
The Hornady puller video does look like it operates better than I imagined - maybe the bullet grip is easily adjustable by how much you pull down on the lever? Hopefully it also gives good tactile feedback so you can tell just how much you are applying each time.
The Hornady requires different collets for different sized bullets, but they do cover a bit of range in size. The .308 collet can be used with 8mm. That also allows some adjustment range. If it's too tight, you can't easily lock the cam lever over, and you may damage the bullet. If it's too loose, the bullets slip out. It's easy to adjust and dial in though. I get it just tight enough that the bullets don't slip out.
 
OK, been playing with it for the last hour and a half and I think I'm getting a handle on how to make it work correctly without marring the bullets. It came with a Hornady Sur-Loc ring (and allen wrench) and I mounted it into my Lee Classic Cast using the Hornady bushing system

There are actually 3 adjustments available on the Hornady Cam Lock
1. the die body
2. the collet body
3. the cam lever

I started with some .38Spl that I've had on the bench for a while that I've been meaning to pull for various reasons. These rounds are loaded with some Speer swaged SWC and some Xtreme FN bullets.

1. I set the die body to allow the round to enter and stop just as the case mouth touches the touches the collet. This was easy to do with an empty case. I just adjusted the die down to the case and locked it in. This allowed me to take a normal stroke of the press handle and get consistent insertion into the collet.

2. I screwed in the Cam Lock assembly, with the lever up, so that it pressed down enough of the collet to compress the fingers just enough to touch the body of the bullet. Per the directions, I then lowered the bullet and screwed down the collet, with the lever down, another quarter turn.

Raise lever, raise loaded case, lock down lever and lower ram to remove bullet. Adjust pressure on collet as need to get enough grip to remove the bullet, a quarter turn at a time. Mine ended up going another half turn and then backing off 1/8 turn. There is a lock ring to lock this adjustment in.

3. The lever does not need to be pushed all the way over/down to work. There is an increasing radius on the camming surface which applies increasing pressure as the lever is lowered. The pressure applied to the bullet, via the collet, can be regulated by feel so as not to exert so much force on the collet fingers that they damage the bullet being pulled.

I have mine adjusted to not require that the lever cammed all the way down. It gives me some leeway should I encounter a stubborn bullet so that I can exert more force without having to tighten the screw-in collet adjustment.

I did most of my trial-and-error on the swaged lead bullets, 3 of 8 pulled cleanly. Moving on to the plated bullets, 6 of 6 extracted cleanly...only one showed any distortion on it's surface where the fingers of the collet met. All looked ready to load again

It made is very easy to not only disassemble the rounds, but also to neatly save the powder to another container and retrieve the bullet without having to dig through the loose powder...as when using my inertia puller

I'm pretty happy with the Hornady Cam Lock Bullet Puller.
 
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