Colt 1851 2nd gen. got three problems.

[K.A.T.]

I took my Colt 1851 out of the box and brought it to life yesterday.I found three problems.I was using #10CCI's they were too big,I don't know of a smaller one,is there a smaller one,or do I need to change the nipples out? I've heard about the Tresso Nipples being the way to go. I think the CCI's are smaller than the Rem. Problem#2, if I let the hammer down easy on the cap then the hammer and the whole gun is locked down,nothing will move. I have to tap the barrel wedge back I start to move the cylinder forward,it only takes a hair of movement and there is a click,then everything is free.I'm thinking the leg of the bolt is not back on top of the cam on the hammer,then when the cylinder is moved forward the hammer is lowered enough to let the cam go under the round notch in the bolt leg,making the clicking sound that is heard.Problem#3,using a .375 ball it doesn't shave a full ring of lead off when going into the cylinder,sometimes half a ring,sometimes three quarter,never a full ring.I was using a Speer .375,do I need a .380 ball.I think I saw a .376 ball sold by Dixie Gun Works,anyone tried these.

 

[DixieTexian]

This is kinda extreme, but since you may have to replace the nipples anyway to get a good cap fit, you could try dry firing it a couple times on each nipple to peen them out a bit bigger. This could damage your hammer also, though.

 

[O.S.O.K.]

hmm

Sounds like you have a burr on the hand or something - I would recommend taking the action apart and checking for this - the burr might be in the "window" where it slips through too - use a stone or a mill file (carefully) to remove the burr if you find it. If you don't see anything obvious, then you probably need a good smith to look at it for you.

For the nipples, you might try Thunder Ridge - they make a very good product and you can have either #10 or #11 sized.

I wouldn't worry about the ball shaving if it shoots accurately - use a lubed felt wad under the ball and see how it shoots if it's not there "dry".

 

[Old Fuff]

1. As you suspect, when you ease the hammer down, the tail on the bolt isn't snapping over the lug on the hammer. To correct take a VERY SMALL amount of metal out of the radius on the bottom of the bolt, and keep the cut square. Or you can take a little metal off of the end of each nipple. If you continue to have cap-fit problems, try different nipples.

2. Retro fitting new nipples with better quality ones is almost always a good idea. I think some manufacturers use cheaper nipples because they doubt that the buyer will shoot the gun, and if he or she does they'll buy better nipples anyway.

3. Try .380 balls, which were considered standard on the 19th century guns anyway. For max-accuracy, slug the bore in your barrel and also each chamber. The chambers should be .001" to .002" over bore dia.

 

[Old Dragoon]

My paperwork on my Second Gen 1851 Navy stated .375 balls. I seldom get a ring because the chamber mouth is beveled ever so slightly on both of my 2nd Gen 1851 Navy's. I use Bore Butter over the balls for lube and safety.

I use # 10 CCI caps and a couple need to be pinched to stay on good, but I seat the caps with a dowel I made up with a bit of Elk Antler. it was originally for a cartridge ejector for my Remy Conversions, but now it does triple duty. 1. ejector for the Remy's, 2. a cap seater, and 3. the antler was cut just at a branch and there is a tip that I use to depress the Wedge spring and knock out the wedge with the antler's rounded end.

I had one of my Navy's lock up at the last CAS Match as you speak of what your's is doing. I took mine apart and there was a scratch on the cam of the hammer that told me the leg of the bolt did do it's job. I dressed it a bit and we'll see tomorrow if that did the trick.

 

[Bad Flynch]

Yes, the cylinder throats can be tapered; that is one way of easing loading in the field. As long as the balls stay seated during normal shooting, then do not worry, just cover them with grease.

Have a gunsmith, who is accustomed to timing revolvers, correct your timing.

 

[Thomas Hawkins]

Colt Instruction Manual

The paper work that came with my 1861 Second Gen and that of my 1851 Sign Series is almost identical. Both sate #10 caps and .378 balls. My Uberti 1851 Navy paper work wanted you to use .380 balls. The instructions and box were so cheesey and the gun is a shooter, so I threw it away. Sorry. Is there anyone out there that knows where to find .380 Cold swaged balls? Thanks, Tom

 

[K.A.T.]

nipple problem

I had to shorten the nipples .015 to get the bolt leg to go under the cam on the hammer.Looks like I could go another .003 and have the hammer just touch the nipple.Now the cone part of the nipple is larger in diameter and seems to hold the #10CCI caps in place.Haven't shot it yet just fired a cap only.

The CCI's were around .010 thicker than the remington caps causing my problem with the bolt leg.So I think I killed two birds with one stone,or one file.

 

[Bad Flynch]

IIRC, according to my 'smith, the nipple height is to be set thusly:

The nipple height should be just less than the amount that it takes for the hammer to rest on the frame, but still fire a cap. That is, IIRC, the hammer should rest on the frame and just miss the nipple, yet still be close enough to fire the cap. That means that the hammer/nipple clearance should be about half the thickness of the cap, or maybe a tad closer.

That amount of clearance would allow one to not batter the nipples so much, I believe. It might also occasion the adjustment of the hammer face so that it was square with the face of the nipples and an occasional redressing of the nipple/hammer relationship to keep everything going right.