Colt Agent Refinish

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wcwhitey

wcwhitey

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Hey all, this little 1958 Colt Agent was handed down to me by my father several years ago. He had the gun for many years and it as most of these type of guns was shot very little and from what I remember it was with wadcutters. However, the anodized frame was really worn and at some point a paint job was applied. I really wanted to do this gun justice but after my research I have found it almost impossible to find a Smitty to refinish this gun to its original shine due to the fact that nobody wants to separate the barrel from the aluminum frame. I get that but it really limits the options. So the options were Duracote or Cerakote. I chose not to go with Duracote as from experience it is a little thick and did not want to put such a heavy coating on the revolver. I have not worked with Cerakote but was not happy with what I saw for colors.

Recently I kind of came up with an idea. Since it is never going to shine like a new gun why not refinish it in a finish that would still make it look special. I came up with the idea to spray it with Aluma Hyde II Gray Parkerize as a nod to the old Colt Commandos of WWII. I always like that look and think it would look really nice on the old Agent. I am waiting on the spray from Brownells but have started the stripping process. Any thoughts or comments are appreciated. The last pic is of an actual Commando with a 2" Barrel.

Also: Experience with the Aluma Hyde, tips, etc. are also welcomed.

IMG_0108.JPG IMG_0212.JPG IMG_0214 (2).JPG IMG_0215 (2).JPG IMG_0217 (2).JPG
 
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If the Duracoat jobs you have seen are too thick, you need to find another applicator. It can be applied very thin and even with a good air brush. Not so with the rattle can version.
 
Kp321 said:
If the Duracoat jobs you have seen are too thick, you need to find another applicator. It can be applied very thin and even with a good air brush. Not so with the rattle can version.
Click to expand...

The rattle can is what I used.
 
wiscoaster said:
I liked the gun in the first pic better.
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Pic is deceiving. Had to see it up close. But yea, it looks good black. Paint was coming off everytime it went in the holster. I would have lived with the faded and worn anodizing. It was pretty worn when my Dad got it in the 70’s. Gun is tight as a drum. Shoots great. Just could not live with flaking paint.
 
Steel parts can be blued, aluminum frame anodized. Either process is fairly straight forward. The problem is separating the barrel from the frame to do so. Nobody recommends doing that for fear of cracking the frame.
 
wiscoaster said:
Can you strip it and blue it?
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As I understand it, a Colt Agent has an aluminum alloy frame like the older Cobra. Those cannot be blued like steel. They are usually "anodized". This can be done in a variety of colors but I think Colt always used black. This gun had already been refinished by painting it. Pictures can be deceiving, I guess, because the Agent in the photos does not look too bad to me; I would not have guessed it was painted, or that the paint was peeling.

And I see that while I was typing out all this, both NIGHTLORD40K and wcwhitey made the same point in about 1/10th as many words. I have to work on being concise. :confused:

PS - Just to run up the word count, in the 1980's I think Colt made some late production Agents with an all-parkerized type finish and the skimpy wood grips shown on the first picture of kp321's Agent. My recollection is that they did not sell well because they looked kind of cheap yet were still expensive.

PPS - Sorry about this. I thought Colt had put the Commando name on some economy model revolver they made in the 80's or 90's, and it turns out that "Commando Special" may be what they called the parkerized Agents I was remembering (the picture is at the end of the thread): https://www.coltforum.com/threads/1980s-colt-commando.51801/

PPPS - I really have to stop, but I think this ad clears things up: https://www.gunbroker.com/item/921187353
 
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You are correct there were dark black phosphate finished Agents. It was while Colt was having labor issues and just like the WW2 Commando used that finish to bring down price and the labor of polishing. I have a few photos somewhere showing the paint missing on the back strap completely. In that photo I had touched it up a little and tried to take the most flattering photo. I would have been down with a worn anodized frame and just went with it. However there was some overspray in the action that I had to address as well. It falls under “it is what it is” . I really don’t expect (but will try like hell) to get a newish looking gun but part of the gray parkerized look is I think it will look better as a classic, nobody expects it to be perfect and would almost be period correct. I have used the Duracoat Blue on a shotgun refinish, I still have another kit. That came out well. If this was a 1911 that would be my choice. However, this has more moving parts and detail that would make it an iffy at best endeavor. You only get one shot with the Duracoat. I would not care to try to strip a gun once it’s cured.
 
wiscoaster said:
Guys ... can't blue aluminum? I've done aluminum frame touch-up using this product:
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ckening-browning/aluminum-black-prod4941.aspx
What is it I'm missing? Can't do the whole frame?
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There is no real problem, the gun is already in the stripping process. The research has already been done. Could easily go with a darker product, there are a few out there. What I am trying to do is make the gun look different as there is no way in hell it’s ever going to look factory new at this point. Paint was in the action, it needed a detailed cleaning, the paint was fairly heavy and removal left zero anodizing on the frame. The blueing on the cylinder, barrel and other steel parts is faint and worn. So it is a good candidate for a look change. It thought a gray phosphate look would be attractive. Nostalgic and more period correct.

I have used the Alum Hyde in its original form years ago on small Parts for Milsurp rifles and had good results. These were not moving parts and not guns subject to holster wear. The newest version is “supposed” to be harder and more solvent resistant than the original. It is said to be equal to Ceracoat if applied correctly and cured properly. I will at the very least flash dry it between coats. Not sure I want to subject the frame to the prolonged heat of baking though.

And to answer your question the Aluminum Black is great for touch ups, Doing a frame with a steel barrel attached would not be an easy trick. If the barrel was able to be removed from the frame it would be at a nice shop right now being made pretty. No smith will touch a barrel removal on this gun and honestly I don’t blame them and appreciate their honesty. After 4 or 5 responses I would have probably been skeptical of the one who said yes.
 
wcwhitey said:
...Not sure I want to subject the frame to the prolonged heat of baking...
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Well it is formulated primarily for aluminum, although some folks use it on steel. Air cure is an option. I haven't used the new version, but I believe they suggest 1 hour at 300 degrees. You can always use a lower heat and longer cure time. Say 200 degrees for an hour and a half. I would still be patient and allow a couple days after that before reassembly. Remember to allow for the finish build thickness.
 
BBBBill said:
Well it is formulated primarily for aluminum, although some folks use it on steel. Air cure is an option. I haven't used the new version, but I believe they suggest 1 hour at 300 degrees. You can always use a lower heat and longer cure time. Say 200 degrees for an hour and a half. I would still be patient and allow a couple days after that before reassembly. Remember to allow for the finish build thickness.
Click to expand...

Thanks! What my plan is to flash dry it with a heat gun between coats, then with an electric heater cure it for about an hour like you mentioned. After that air cure for two weeks before assembly. I am building a stand/jig so all parts will be suspended and don’t have to be touched or manipulated. This way I can stand it in front of a heater like an Earl Sheib paint job.
 
Prep is everything...with masking a close second, especially on a revolver. Keeping spray out of the internal frame area (and internal parts, screw threads & holes, etc), and edges of side plate/mating frame surface is right behind prep ;) Brake cleaning spray is effective--do it outside and be generous. I've only sprayed one revolver (but numerous pistols & long guns), and the revolver took a lot more thinking!

I'd do wire arrangements and degrease, heat in oven to check for oil ooze/seepage from tiny joints and cavities, and degrease again, as needed.
 
Steve762us said:
Prep is everything...with masking a close second, especially on a revolver. Keeping spray out of the internal frame area (and internal parts, screw threads & holes, etc), and edges of side plate/mating frame surface is right behind prep ;) Brake cleaning spray is effective--do it outside and be generous. I've only sprayed one revolver (but numerous pistols & long guns), and the revolver took a lot more thinking!

I'd do wire arrangements and degrease, heat in oven to check for oil ooze/seepage from tiny joints and cavities, and degrease again, as needed.
Click to expand...
B7F5FD71-ABAD-49D3-83AA-8C5A8DE0669C.jpeg E9E381B4-1CDD-47F1-B3A6-E0856FD15648.jpeg

Working on it! Thanks
 
Watch out for blotchy borders around charge holes on cylinder face, if tape is folding over edges of charge holes. Ejector rod may have threading in knurled tip, if similar to S&W.

I like "fixed mounting" screws (shove threads into sheet of cardboard--held & masked in one step), but most other objects get wired--gives better 'all angle access' for spray, IME. Test rotate items to ensure they won't fall off wire, if turned around/upside to get spray angles. I like to leave enough wire to make a good 'handle'.

Oh, one other tip--if you plan to oven-heat items after spraying, wait a half hour for coating to dry and carefully peel off all masking tape. Some masking tape makes a gooey, stick mess after oven heating. "Axe me how I know" :oops:
 
I've had a few items and a couple of guns done with Ceracote and they all turned out well. My dad decided he wanted to have his stainless Green Mountain barrel done in a color that more closely matched the receiver of his rifle, so I took it to the shop that's done work for me.

The result was a barrel that more closely resembles bluing than any of the Savage, Ruger, Remington etc rifles that have left the factory in recent years.
The color is very, very close, but duplicating the depth of real bluing isn't really possible. It's not the dull/flat finish normally seen with Ceracote, but doesn't have that deep shine.

I'll be dropping off an old JC Higgins/Stevens 311A for the same treatment.
 
Howland937 said:
The result was a barrel that more closely resembles bluing than any of the Savage, Ruger, Remington etc rifles that have left the factory in recent years.
The color is very, very close, but duplicating the depth of real bluing isn't really possible. It's not the dull/flat finish normally seen with Ceracote, but doesn't have that deep shine.
.
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Got a pic?
 
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Couple pics of the formerly stainless 10/22 barrel mentioned earlier. Cerakote, not paint. The guy that does it where I live is also a gunsmith and will do disassembly and reassembly if a person isn't comfy taking their own gun apart.
 
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