Colt cap and ball experts step up please: need help selecting repair parts.

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1KPerDay

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I’d like to order all the parts I need at once if possible.

If an 1851 doesn’t have a half cock nor stay cocked, what spring or part needs to be replaced?

if an 1849 cylinder doesn’t lock into place I assume I need a trigger/bolt spring?

if a (replica) Paterson cylinder isn’t fully rotated into locking position as the hammer locks, is that indicative that I need a new/longer hand? This also happens on a (replica) Walker.

also a (replica) 3rd model dragoon that over-rotates the cylinder on most chambers and the cylinder usually doesn’t lock. I haven’t disassembled them fully because I don’t want to bugger up the screws.

any help welcome.
 
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Hello 1KPerDay,

1st, get a set of Gunsmith Screw Drivers (to fit the screws).
2nd Look at diagrams, watch video's, and make yourself comfortable with working on this.
3rd, tear it down to see what's wrong. It sounds like maybe a trigger/bolt spring is broken.

If not comfortable to do it yourself, take it to a competent gunsmith.

AntiqueSledMan.
 
In order:

1) broken 1/2 cock notch and trigger sear. (Probably happened at the same time)
2) yes (probably)
3) yes and yes
4) possible cracked hand spring and/ or bolt spring. Bolt head may be damaged as well as the locking notches.

You won't know any of this until you disassemble though (except for the notches! Lol)! Looks like you got some "fun" ahead!!

Mike
 
If the 1851 doesnt go into half cock then the MOST LIKELY reason is the trigger spring, either its broken or not strong enough. ...the other issues you have can vary as to what the problem can be. I would love to help but without handling the guns i cant give a definitive answer
 
Thanks for the mention gasmandave! Mike has pretty well covered it, none of us can say absolutely what each issue is until we have the pistols in hand and on the bench.
 
Thanks guys. That helps significantly. I forgot about the trigger sear for one thing. I’ll pull them apart when I get brave enough. I have good screwdrivers but lots of the screws are in pretty bad shape and they’ve never been apart in my lifetime or (I’m pretty confident) my dad’s lifetime. He was a collector but not really a shooter of blackpowder.

Should I try kroil or PB Blaster for a couple days before attempting to break them down? Have you ever had to use an impact driver? (I hesitate to even mention it around you pros)
 
Also LMK any caveats re: ordering the correct parts. I know Dixie mentions some screws for originals only but are the triggers and hands and bolts good to go generally for both replicas and originals or are they usually different as well?
 
I use a screwdriver that uses separate bits so, typically with stubborn screws, I will hold the bit in place and smack it pretty good with my upholstery hammer (gotta get its attention as well as imprint a good shoulder in the slot!) It never fails me . . .

Probably Uberti parts for spares.

Mike
 
Thanks guys. That helps significantly. I forgot about the trigger sear for one thing. I’ll pull them apart when I get brave enough. I have good screwdrivers but lots of the screws are in pretty bad shape and they’ve never been apart in my lifetime or (I’m pretty confident) my dad’s lifetime. He was a collector but not really a shooter of blackpowder.

Should I try kroil or PB Blaster for a couple days before attempting to break them down? Have you ever had to use an impact driver? (I hesitate to even mention it around you pros)
NEVER use an impact driver on a gun!

45 Dragoon already gave the answers I was going to give. These guns are fairly simple in how they operate, you should be able to figure out what each one needs.
 
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