Colt Cobra Fix-er-upper

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gfanikf

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Well in the battle to not be impulsive, being impulsive struck a major blow today.

I was in Kings Shooter Supply in their new location in King of Prussia PA last night (and actually I had noticed it the week before) and I decided to take a look at a Colt Cobra that was in stock. The gun itself had a really nice lockup and nothing to indicate moderate if any real use. No rebluing jobs or anything. Now of course if it's a fixer upper there are issues. The first being someone bobbled the hammer (no clue if it was professional or bubba), but I noticed that Colt Cobra Hammers seem to pop up online for decentish prices. The second issue is the lower half of the grips (factory wood ones with silver colt medallions) on both sides look like it was a chew toy for a dog. :what:

The grips are the lesser issue since I can always find some hogue or replacement ones for cheap and eventually some factory ones. My bigger concern is the hammer. I assume hammer replacement is a gunsmith activity do to issues with timing, correct? The other is that for the moment it's DA only (more annoying than anything else).

For the price (I had a promotional gift card from Comcast cable...yep that be irony...for $100) so pre-tax and PICs, it's $249. So for a fixer upper, did I do all right, and how should I approach the bobbled hammer, get it replacement or just keep it as is and get grips for the moment? The grips really do need to be replaced. I'll add some pics when I get it tomorrow.
 
You didn't do bad. Stocks show up all the time for the Cobra. Depending if it's pre or post 66 you'll need either the long stocks or the short. The hammer is another matter. If it functions as it should, I wouldn't bother attempting to change it. I'd just take it out and shoot the heck out of it. Many hammers available are used and have been fitted to a different gun. As such they may or may not be suitable for your gun. And yes the hammer needs fitting.
The Cobra (just in case someone out there doesn't know) is the aluminum alloy version of the Detective Special. It's light weight and SIX round cylinder have made it a favorite for Concealed carry for decades. They're a favorite of mine and I've been shooting and collecting them for years.
 
The trigger pull on that little blaster should be light and smooth enough to allow easy D/A shooting so I'd leave the hammer alone. Date of birth can be found at proofhouse.com which will help you in finding the proper stocks for your gun.
 
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The more I think about it I'm just going to keep the hammer as is in dao setup.

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The more I think about it I'm just going to keep the hammer as is in dao setup.

I'd say that would be a good idea.

To continue: When the hammer was bobbed the single action notch should have been modified so that the spurless hammer couldn't be cocked. Otherwise you can have an interesting time trying to lower it when the chamber is loaded.

If the hammer was modified they might have also done some work on the trigger, in which case if you replaced the hammer you might have to change the trigger too. As you should be able to see, this is getting involved...

Consider carefully before you do anything.
 
If/when you get it, and figure out all that needs to be done to it, you'll love that Cobra. I picked up a 4" made in '57, about 98%, a true beauty for sure. Grips are pristine! Nice little revolver, you'll like it.
 
Dang, AJ and Roger were supposed to set that one aside for ME!

;)

Awesome score!
Phew good thing I came in when I did! ;)
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1. The gun left the factory between 1966-1967. I missed out on C&R by 3 years! The gun looks nothing like a 47 year old gun. Two or so spots with no finish...but everything else looks MINT in terms of finish....it's odd. It's not a rebluing though.
2. Someones dog did get a hold of the grips at some point ,seriously I have no clue what the hell could have caused the damage to the lower parts of the grips.
3. The hammer was bobbled, it looks like it was a DIY vs a gunsmith as it's still kind of rough and the gun can still be put into single action. Not sure what to do, if anything.
4. Fits very very nicely in my pocket and could make a great CCW gun.
 
Wow, cool gun! I'd probably save pennies until I could afford to have one of the few remaining Colt-capable 'smiths work on it, but probably just to finish off that hammer more nicely. Fitz style would be cool, if you want to pay to have the top of it checkered just for nostalgia's sake.
 
Very nice find

Since you have the post 65 frame, it will accept all kinds of stocks such as the later wraparound and pachmayrs, including using pachmayr grip adapters. You can even put on the post 65 agent stocks for absolute compactness but often you can only fit 2 fingers in the grip frame then. Hammers are easy to find even on ebay and usually drop in. Wonderfull carry gun because of the weight. At one time Colt stated it was rated for 1000 rds of Plus P then it need to be inspected. I shoot standard or mid-range wad cutters in my alloy Colts but carry Plus P.
 
I'd leave it be and enjoy its character, but if the hammer doesn't set well with you, I'd gently smooth and polish just the bobbed portion and exposed back of it with 300 grit wet-or-dry, then follow-up with a run through various Norton sanding pads, from green to maroon to gray and finally white, and finish with a Flitz polishing.

Scan Ebay and Gunbroker for grips; local shows might have them too.

And take good care of your comic books. ;)
 
I think if I used +P my hand would fall off. My hand was raw as crap when I got putting 40 or so rounds though it (just standard FMJ federal 38 special). I think part of it comes from the grips being worn, but also snubnoses tend to hurt more. I suspect a solution might be to do some light trail boss or just any type of light loads and get a larger rubber grip. Granted that doesn't work well for concealed carry, but it means my hand doesn't hurt like hell at the range and since my aim kind of sucks with it, I wouldn't be carrying it anyway (or anything for that matter).


I was told that a gunsmith in the area, John Robinson, who is considered a Garand expert is also a double action colt expert. I'm going to call him and ask what finishing the bob would cost. Not sure if I want him to fully take away the single action parts. I'd rather not destroy the ability for it to be made SA/DA down the road.
 
I'd rather not destroy the ability for it to be made SA/DA down the road.

The greater question is: What has been done already? If you want the very best double-action trigger pull modifications to both the hammer and trigger are necessary. If you are not so picky only the hammer needs to be worked on.

My personal choice for ammunition in lightweight snubbies is 148-grain mid-range wadcutters. At close range they do not over-penetrate and shoot to the point-of-aim. Recoil is more easily controlled and accurate follow-up shots are not difficult. Not much muzzle flash/blast in low light either. If you handload try 3.0 grains of bullseye behind a cast double-base 148-grain wadcutter bullet, and seat the bullet to be flush with the case mouth. They don’t expand but they do make a mean hole.
 
If you want to change the stocks to something other than original style look up Badger Grips. While they don't allow the little finger a good purchase on the grip they are fairly comfortable. I have a 1965 Cobra that I carry a good bit with elk stocks and a Tyler T Grip.
 
Good Job,

That probably had the hammer bobbed somewhere along the way so a police officer could carry or as a back up.
Some new wood and a hammer and a little work on the metal and you could easily double your money, even if you don't just fall in love with it. I have a Cobra snubbie and a Lawman snubbie, and would not part with either one.
 
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